Questions For Oslo Owners

Nonprophet · Feb 28, 2010

I picked up a nice used Oslo this week and so far have had 5 fires in it. As we all know, each stove (and installation) has its own quirks and tricks that make it burn best. So far, I'm happy with the stove, but I'm definitely NOT dialed in yet, so I have some questions for you experienced Oslo users!

Getting the fire going is no problem--paper, kindling, small dry splits and she takes off very nicely. I usually leave the front or side door cracked a 1/2" or so to get it going. Problem is that (from a cold start) I've been having to wait about 30 minutes or so before I can close the door without the fire really struggling. It won't go out, but it goes from a fully engaged firebox/inferno to red coals and smallish flames once I shut the doors. For the heck of it, I left the side door open tonight for 30 mins using some of my best wood--2 year old Doug Fir that's about 13-15% moisture. I got the pipe thermometer (18" up from stove outlet) up to about 480 and the middle of the stove top plate up to 480 or so, and then shut the doors leaving the primary air all the way open. The fire is still going, but within 15-20 mins stove pipe temp has dropped to 325 or so, and middle of the top plate is 450. Again, this is super dry wood with the primary air open all the way---all the other stoves that I have installed here using the same pipe and chimney would be raging under those conditions. In fact, one of the reasons we sold our VC Defiant/Encore was that it has a tendency to want to run away, and I felt like I always had to monitor it.......

So, wood is good and dry, 15' of pipe and I think the draft is plenty strong--I never get any back-puffing or smoke coming in the room, even when first lighting the fire when the pipe is cold and the front door wide open and it drafts just fine, it just feels like the firebox is starving for air once I close the doors.

I took off the "dog house" cover and everything is nice and clean and ash-free by the primary air intake, so I'm kind of stumped!

Also, in the manual (and in reading other threads about the Oslo here) it says to measure temp in one of the four corners when deciding to start shutting down the primary air to light the secondaries. Well, checking with both my IR and magnetic thermometers the corners will be about 300-350 while the middle of the top plate is 500-550 at least for the first hour or so when starting from a cold start. Even loading up the firebox last night with super dry wood and cracking one of the doors, I was only able to get the corners up to about 450-475 with the center of the top plate around 550 or so--again wide open on the primary air and the side door cracked open!!

I'm glad the Oslo won't be a runaway, but something doesn't seem right--it feels starved for air.

Lastly, I did load the box up last night on top of a good bed of coals about 12pm and incrementally closed the primary air down to about 25%, and the secondaries were doing just great. Still, this was 3 year old well seasoned Cherry (and two BIG chunks) and about 4am or so the wood was mostly gone--just a very thick bed of coals. I'd been hoping for at least 6-7 hour burns, any advice on how to increase burn times??

Thanks so much for any helpful suggestions!!

NP

ansehnlich1 · Feb 28, 2010

Well now, sounds like your setup is pretty close to mine. I've read where Oslo owners say they load 'er upon a bed of coals and close the door and within 15 or 20 minutes she's a raging beast!

That ain't my Oslo!

The stove for me runs like a tractor trailer, not a dragster. The dragster gets up to speed right away, the 18 wheeler with 40,000 pounds loaded on the trailer takes some time to get goin' but when she's finally up to speed it's hard to stop her.

My Oslo runs differently depending on how I load it and what I'm burning, also, weather conditions affect the burn too sometimes. Smaller splits loaded in the firebox loosely ignite and get up to operating temperature much faster than large splits stuffed in tight.

With a full load it can take my stove quite some time to get going. I'm on my 3rd year with this stove and it's a great heater, I just had to learn that it takes some time to get up to operating temperature. There's quite a spell between stuffin' it full and the time it reaches 600 on the right rear stovetop thermometer...

check this link and read my little experiment I did recently.....

https://www.hearth.com/econtent/index.php/forums/viewthread/52179/

Hanko · Feb 28, 2010

same for me as you guys. Certainly dont need dampers do we?

Shari · Feb 28, 2010

Well, I've only been burning my Oslo for around 2 weeks but I am simply lovin' this stove! I think the biggest thing I had to learn is to get an established coal bed as that seems to make a world of difference. Typically, going from a coldish stove (150-200) I can get temps up to 400-450 in about 15-20 minutes with having the side door open for only the first 5 minutes and making sure the air intake area is clear. After the first 15-20 minutes I dial down to 1/2 for about 10-15 minutes (temp goes up to around 500-550), then dial down to 1/4 or less and cruise.

Personally, I don't use rounds. In my mind wood in rounds remains wet in the center. Oh, I might have the odd 2" round here and there but anything larger than 2-3" gets split.

As far as overnight burns: Example, I stoked the stove last night around 10:30pm got up this morning around 7am, house was 71, raked around inside to expose the coals, tossed a handfull of 'noodles' on the coals and 3 pieces of kindling (and, yes, I lit the bunch - I don't save matches around here because I don't want smoldering starts) Vroom! It's burning nicely and then I added my splits. I am already dialed down to 1/4 and stove temp (on the right top front) is coasting at 450 less than an hour from re-start.

In both of the examples above I would question the wood. Have either of you tried a bundle of wood from you local grocery store or gas station? That wood is normally kiln dried and should really show you what your stoves can do with truly dry wood.

Shari

ansehnlich1 · Feb 28, 2010

Naw, I don't think it's the wood. I think the stove needs a good draft, and some chimney's pull better than others. It may be the species of wood has an effect, but these guys here and myself I think are burning seasoned wood....I KNOW I am.

I think the little difference in the Oslo and how fast it gets up to temp's has more to do with draft than the wood. In fact, I've put dried cedar in mine, kiln dried 2x4's mixed in with loads, hickory, cherry, boxelder, sycamore, walnut, red oak, white oak, chestnut oak, willow, locust, you name it, I've burned in the past 3 years......it ain't the wood in my case.......I'm convinced it's the chimney/draft.

nelraq · Feb 28, 2010

My Oslo is exactly liked nonprophets and those of the first two respondents.

In my case, FOR SURE, it is not the wood.

I recently purchased a moisture meter for about $100. First thing I did with it was take it to a local sawmill and compare it with their $2500 unit. We checked several pieces of wood. Mine does not 'do' decimals - theirs does. In each case the whole numbers were the same - ie theirs 9.6 - mine 9; theirs 18.7 - mine 18 etc.

Except for the kiln dried cedar kindling that I use, I have been checking every piece of wood that goes into the stove. Readings have varied from 6% up to around 14%. I haven't put anything in the stove over 14%.

My draft is excellent - never any backpuffing. I don't leave the door open anymore (had a slight incident!!), but when I tried that I got a good fire going, shut the door and almost immediately the fire turned into a lazy, relaxed non-inferno.

My tractor trailer stove will regularly take 2 - 3 hours to get up to 450 - 500 degrees!!

I even tried kiln dried (10%) 2 x 4's from HD - cut them into 16" lengths and split most of them. Same result!

I did loosen the inspection cover bolts and put 2 small bolts between it and the stove body and tightened the bolts. Huge difference in the performance of the stove.

I know that in Europe there are 2 different inspection covers available for the Oslo. I'd really like to get my hands on the Euro version!

I actually love the stove. Once it finally gets up to temp, it heats the house well. I'm just really tired of waiting for it - it's like I'm its slave!!

Any suggestions re. something else to try?

WOODBUTCHER · Feb 28, 2010

Nonprophet,
Just giving you feedback....
Speaking from experience here......we have 2 Oslo's, a Firelight and a F3 CB between our family's. (I've run them all) All the stoves act and respond the same way.

My corner temps are in between 500-625 before I shut down my primary air. Your corner temps sound really low.
Also, you shouldn't have to leave the door open for 30 minutes. It sounds like your having some issues as Nelraq in a previous post of yours. (staved for air)

Since your DougFir has been split for 2 years and your Cherry has been split for 3..........I don't think it's the wood.
You say you have a 15' stack.......How many bends? Give us details on the size of the pipe, rear/top exit from stove, external masonry, liner etc......

This is the same for all our stoves......F500/F600/F3 CB
Most of the time my stove is running with the front draft lever 75% or more closed (depending on the temps outside and size of the load.)
The species of wood and the size of the splits will set the table on how much of an overnight burn you’ll get. I usually pack it (large splits) within 3-4 inches of the burntubes for overnight runs.
It will easily overfire if the front draft lever is left open all the way for any length of time.
Once the wood is charred and she’s hot (500-600), I’ll knock the front draft lever down 75% or more and then she’ll purr.
Now and then I’ll have to crack a door for a few minutes to get the fire going on cold starts.
The stove is easy to control and I never usually have run away fires (unless we have severe wind gusts)
From a cold start with kindling, I can get her over 500 in about 30-45 minutes, thats with doors closed and draft wide open

Hope this helps

WoodButcher

ansehnlich1 · Feb 28, 2010

nelraq said:
I did loosen the inspection cover bolts and put 2 small bolts between it and the stove body and tightened the bolts. Huge difference in the performance of the stove.

I know that in Europe there are 2 different inspection covers available for the Oslo. I'd really like to get my hands on the Euro version!

Hey, do you mean you loosened the primary air inlet cover inside the front door and shimmed it up, allowing more air to enter?

You see, from being on this site for 3 years, and reading all I've read, I kind of am suspicious that maybe some Oslo's are leaving the factory with a clogged secondary air inlet, maybe it has some stove cement restricting it or something, I've never dismantled my stove so I wouldn't know at this point.

Also, I've thought of drilling the primary air inlet cover holes a little bigger but never did that either.

Now I see there are possibly 2 different styles of primary air inlet covers?

I don't know, I've just always been suspicious of why some Oslo owners report fast get up and go times, and my Oslo is of the slow to get going variety.

Don't get me wrong, this little stove heat's my home just fine, and it's a great stove....there just seems to be something odd going on here.

begreen · Feb 28, 2010

nelraq said:
My Oslo is exactly liked nonprophets and those of the first two respondents.

In my case, FOR SURE, it is not the wood.

I recently purchased a moisture meter for about $100. First thing I did with it was take it to a local sawmill and compare it with their $2500 unit. We checked several pieces of wood. Mine does not 'do' decimals - theirs does. In each case the whole numbers were the same - ie theirs 9.6 - mine 9; theirs 18.7 - mine 18 etc.

Except for the kiln dried cedar kindling that I use, I have been checking every piece of wood that goes into the stove. Readings have varied from 6% up to around 14%. I haven't put anything in the stove over 14%.

My draft is excellent - never any backpuffing. I don't leave the door open anymore (had a slight incident!!), but when I tried that I got a good fire going, shut the door and almost immediately the fire turned into a lazy, relaxed non-inferno.

My tractor trailer stove will regularly take 2 - 3 hours to get up to 450 - 500 degrees!!

I even tried kiln dried (10%) 2 x 4's from HD - cut them into 16" lengths and split most of them. Same result!

I did loosen the inspection cover bolts and put 2 small bolts between it and the stove body and tightened the bolts. Huge difference in the performance of the stove.

I know that in Europe there are 2 different inspection covers available for the Oslo. I'd really like to get my hands on the Euro version!

I actually love the stove. Once it finally gets up to temp, it heats the house well. I'm just really tired of waiting for it - it's like I'm its slave!!

Any suggestions re. something else to try?

This is primarily a difference in draft. Warmer climate burning = less draft. Also, a top-vented straight up connected Oslo (or other Jotul) is going to draft better than one that has a rear-exit vent, short horiz. run, then an elbow connecting to the liner or chimney.

As a test, get a 4ft length of regular 26ga, 6" round duct pipe. Remove the flue cap and temporarily use the duct pipe to extend the chimney 4 ft. Try that with a couple fires and see how she burns. I'm betting it will make a world of difference.

Battenkiller · Feb 28, 2010

Shari said:
Well, I've only been burning my Oslo for around 2 weeks but I am simply lovin' this stove!

Typically, going from a coldish stove (150-200) I can get temps up to 400-450 in about 15-20 minutes with having the side door open for only the first 5 minutes and making sure the air intake area is clear. After the first 15-20 minutes I dial down to 1/2 for about 10-15 minutes (temp goes up to around 500-550), then dial down to 1/4 or less and cruise.

...raked around inside to expose the coals, tossed a handful of 'noodles' on the coals and 3 pieces of kindling (and, yes, I lit the bunch - I don't save matches around here because I don't want smoldering starts) Vroom! It's burning nicely and then I added my splits.

That wood is normally kiln dried and should really show you what your stoves can do with truly dry wood.

Personally, I don't use rounds. In my mind wood in rounds remains wet in the center.

Glad to see you're groovin' on "Ozzie" already. You seem to be a quick learner.

Ya, I can't see the point of stuffing a stove full of of big splits and letting it smoke for half an hour until it takes off. A bit o' kindlin' and a two minute wait between additions of wood and you get those instant startups like you are enjoying... long as the wood is dry. I've been trying the "stuff it and walk away" method recommended by some and it works OK but smokes for 20 minutes until the fire gets really going. The way you're doing it, I'll bet you get no smoke at all out the chimney.

I personally don't think putting real kiln-dried wood into the stove shows anything at all about what your stove can do. No matter what kind of fuel stoves are tested with, good ones are designed to run best on wood that has the same MC that would be found after a year of outdoor seasoning, or about 18-20%. Kiln dried wood is about 6% MC - way too dry for normal burns. Thankfully for most of the folks that try this recommendation, the box store "kiln-dried" is rarely below 20%. It has mostly been "sterilized" by heating it up to 160º to kill pests. A box full of truly kiln-dried wood and a small procedural lapse like a briefly unattended loading door is a sure way to torch off a dirty chimney if you ever find yourself wondering what it's like to experience that.

In my experience, rounds dry just about as fast as large splits if they aren't too long. I am in the process of doing some MC measurements using the extremely accurate oven drying method. There are many interesting findings, but to mention just one right now, a slice out of the middle of a 6" hickory round (18" long) that has been outside since it was cut in December shows a MC of 41%, while a nearly identical round that had been split in half had a MC of 40%. Of further interest, hickory usually has a green MC of 55-60%, so contrary to what many have said here, significant drying (up to 20% in only 2 months) occurs in winter, even at extremely low temps. This hickory is already almost as dry as some freshly cut white ash that folks are told will be OK to burn in a pinch. But more on this in a future thread.

I don't have an answer to the OP's problem, but I have been reading many threads where the wood is always suspect, then the poster can't even get a good burn with store bought wood. So then the problem is pinned on inadequate draft, stack effect in the house, negative pressure from appliances and exhaust fans, etc. No one seems to believe that you can have perfect wood and a perfect chimney and still get bad burns if you aren't loading your stove with the proper size wood in the proper direction and with the proper timing. It's a very complex world inside a raging wood stove, both physically and chemically. Things are happening in there that just don't lend themselves to easy analysis. Experience and intuition end up being the most important things in getting good burns. Don't expect this to happen overnight or you will be quickly disappointed. Science may help, but in the end, heating with wood is an art.

begreen · Feb 28, 2010

NP is in Oregon. We are having record warmth this winter. Daytime temps are in the mid to high 50's. Seriously, trees are starting to get leaves now. Draft is bound to be weaker at 50 degrees than at 20. I'm guessing that with a yurt the flue is 12' or under in height as well. Could be wrong though. Jerry-rigging the doghouse is treating the symptom, not the problem.

Nonprophet · Feb 28, 2010

Thanks everyone for you comments and suggestions so far, very helpful!

I will try the experiment BG mentioned and add a 4' section to the stack just to see what happens. I don't feel like it's a draft problem, and, I had no problem with draft on my previous down-draft VC Defiant/Encore cat stove, and I've heard that they really need sufficient draft to work. I suppose it's possible that my air manifold is clogged somehow--sure hope I don't have to take the stove apart to find out.....I'm also reluctant to drill more holes into the dog house cover because A) Jotul designed it that way for a reason, and B) I've not heard anybody else say that they did drill more holes and it made things better. Maybe an experiment would be to use a few washers as spacers and raise the doghouse cover up 1/4" inch or so which should allow more air in.

I'm still puzzled by a few other things.

This stove seems to smoke a lot. I've only had two previous EPA stoves (on cat one not) but with the VC, once the cat was engaged there was NO smoke, and even before the cat was engaged there wasn't much. Same thing with my non-cat Earth stove, especially once the secondaries were going--very little smoke. That's not the case with the Oslo however.

Even last night after burning for several hours with a large coal bed, I loaded it up with dry splits (again, I'm checking this wood properly w/a moisture meter and it's all 14-18%), left the side door open 1/2" or so for about 8 mins, got the stove top corners up to about 475 (which is about as hot as I've ever got them!) and then shut the door and slowly (over next 20 mins) closed the air down to about 25%. Now, the secondaries are really kicking in! Go outside and look at stack top, there's a lot of smoke coming out (it was only about 42 outside last night, so I know it was smoke not steam....). I waited another 20 mins, secondaries still doing great, checked chimney, still lots of smoke! And here's the weird thing--my firebricks look like new, my glass is spotless, and in the morning everything is burned nice and clean!

Do others still get a lot of smoke coming out of there Oslo, even once the secondaries are firing?

Thanks!

NP

Nonprophet · Feb 28, 2010

BeGreen said:
NP is in Oregon. We are having record warmth this winter. Daytime temps are in the mid to high 50's. Seriously, trees are starting to get leaves now. Draft is bound to be weaker at 50 degrees than at 20. I'm guessing that with a yurt the flue is 12' or under in height as well. Could be wrong though. Jerry-rigging the doghouse is treating the symptom, not the problem.

BG,

You're right about daytime temps and if I was burning during the day I'd agree that draft was certainly an issue. But I'm only burning at night, and last night we got down to 42 degrees--the two previous nights it was 35 and 33 respectively.

Just for giggles I did measure my stack yesterday, I'm at 14.5' off the stove top. I know 15' is the recommended minimum, so I'll try adding another 2-4 ft and see what happens.

NP

begreen · Feb 28, 2010

14.5' is great for a yurt. How is the stove connected? How many 90's in the flue connection?

nelraq · Feb 28, 2010

My total chimney length is 13 feet. I added a temp 3 foot chimney extension in January. No change whatsoever. I will try a 4 footer!

My chimney is a vertical installation - no elbows.

My PE stove certainly had no problems with draft. It had 2 45 degree elbows at ceiling height. I started the fire in the PE with 2 5 inch rounds in the bottom with kindling on top and newspaper knots on top of that. Light the paper and I would have a very vigorous fire within 10 minutes.

Tried the same thing with the Oslo - many times! - the kindling would burn - the logs would not catch, and the whole thing would basically be out in 10 minutes!!

I am starting to think that Ansehinlich1 may be right - there is something in the air tubes that is restricting air flow. Maybe we have stoves that were assembled on a Friday or Monday !!!

nelraq · Feb 28, 2010

Forgot to add in previous post - I get virtually no smoke - except for some on startup.

Nonprophet · Feb 28, 2010

BeGreen said:
14.5' is great for a yurt. How is the stove connected? How many 90's in the flue connection?

From stove top up:

6"-8" adapter, 24" of 8" single wall, 8" single wall 90 into 4' horizontal section of Selkirk metalbestos SS double wall which passes through the yurt wall, into 8" single wall T, then straight up 12.5' with 8" single wall pipe, china hat on top with 3/8x3/8 wire mesh as a spark arrestor. Again, no back drafts, no puffing (even on cold startup with front door wide open NO smoke comes inside), and glass and firebrick look like new.

Suggestions greatly appreciated!

NP

begreen · Feb 28, 2010

There are several issues here that combined are making for poor draft. These issues, together with mild temps are what I suspect are at the core of the problem. The 8" pipe is not helping. The 2-90's in the flue path are further reducing draft and the long horizontal run also doesn't help.

You may be able to mitigate some of the issues by changing the connector on the inside of the yurt. I set up a Morso in a yurt by using double-wall pipe and a pair of 45s instead of a 90. They also have 12 ft of pipe outside but only a 24" horiz. run. Their setup works pretty well. If you choose this route, do it in 6" round double-wall and transition to the 8" round at the thimble. But doing the entire system in 6" will have better results.

But as a test, I'd still get some cheap 8" round vent pipe and stick it on the top to help draft.

Here's a link to the Morso installation with pictures.
https://www.hearth.com/econtent/index.php/forums/viewthread/27154/

Battenkiller · Feb 28, 2010

Nonprophet said:
From stove top up:

6"-8" adapter, 24" of 8" single wall, 8" single wall 90 into 4' horizontal section of Selkirk metalbestos SS double wall which passes through the yurt wall, into 8" single wall T, then straight up 12.5' with 8" single wall pipe, china hat on top with 3/8x3/8 wire mesh as a spark arrestor. Again, no back drafts, no puffing (even on cold startup with front door wide open NO smoke comes inside), and glass and firebrick look like new.

Very short chimney coupled with an oversized flue pipe diameter = lazy burn. Gases expand inside the larger diameter pipe, slowing down in velocity, increasing residence time inside the flue, cooling off more and therefore reducing the temperature differential between average gas temp inside the flue and the temperature of the outside air. That will automatically reduce the draw of your chimney by a lot more than having a shorter chimney will. Your old stove was designed for a 8" minimum flue size, whereas the Oslo is designed for an 8" maximum flue size. I think you'll be happiest with a 6" flue pipe diameter and a bit more height, particularly in your climate.

nelraq · Feb 28, 2010

Myself and nonprophet seem to have the same problem, but with completely different setups/circumstances.

Have now tried the additional 4 feet of chimney - with no difference at all.

The Oslo has performed the same way in all weather conditions since I got it in early December. We have had weather ranging from -20 Celcius to the balmy +8 degrees days we are having now.

I am at my wits end; and am open to any and all suggestions to rectify this problem.

Thanks.

ansehnlich1 · Mar 1, 2010

I have an exterior brick chimney, terracotta liner, and that is lined/insulated with 6 inch flex pipe....it's about 22 feet from the living room floor to the cap. I have a 45 degree elbow 2 feet above the stove then through the wall thimble and into the liner.....I'd say it's about 18 feet from the thimble on up to the cap.

And so, if your chimney is only 13 feet I'm feeling pretty confident that increasing that to 18 feet or more will surely help your situation. I think the Oslo is a draft sensitve stove, period!

Those who have great success I think have great draft, you know, those who can say they load it and and the splits "ERUPT" into flames, haha, I ain't never had anything "ERUPT" into flames in my stove, not even hatched split pine 2x4's

I use for kindling.

Now, I guarantee this Oslo heats my home, I ain't burned a drop of black gold this winter! And the coldest it's been in my living room after being away for 10 hours is 67 degrees F.

She just takes a bit of time getting up to temperature from a dead start that's all.

I'm wonderin' about my buddy Shari there, what say you Shari? Riddle me this....what's your chimney setup like? And also, just what type of wood are you burning and what size splits do you use?

I mean, possibly I'm splitting my stuff too large, I normally get 6 or 7 big pieces in there for an overnight or all day burn....how's about you?

begreen · Mar 1, 2010

nelraq said:
Myself and nonprophet seem to have the same problem, but with completely different setups/circumstances.

Have now tried the additional 4 feet of chimney - with no difference at all.

The Oslo has performed the same way in all weather conditions since I got it in early December. We have had weather ranging from -20 Celcius to the balmy +8 degrees days we are having now.

I am at my wits end; and am open to any and all suggestions to rectify this problem.

Thanks.

Can you post the particulars on your flue setup? What part of BC are you located in?

NP is certain that his wood is very well seasoned. How is your wood supply? Often that is the culprit. Have you tried some store bought wood?

WOODBUTCHER · Mar 1, 2010

nelraq said:
Myself and nonprophet seem to have the same problem, but with completely different setups/circumstances.

Have now tried the additional 4 feet of chimney - with no difference at all.

The Oslo has performed the same way in all weather conditions since I got it in early December. We have had weather ranging from -20 Celcius to the balmy +8 degrees days we are having now.

I am at my wits end; and am open to any and all suggestions to rectify this problem.

Thanks.

Hey guys,

Even during the summer (when my stove is idle) if I was to put my hand over the air inlet (rear bottom) then spread my fingers, I could still feel it pulling a light draft.
This is a very simple test I used when we installed my BIL’s Firelight and my FIL’s Oslo ( to make sure they had a good draw before lighting the stoves for the first time.)
If your stove is cold try that, cover the air inlet (rear bottom) with your hand, then spread your fingers, you should be able to feel air being pulled even if the stove is idle.
This is a sign of a good draft.

As a last resort, I'd try anything.

Have you checked the insulation blanket on top of your baffle plate for folds, does it lay nice and flat?
I would check the flue collar area (make sure it has a gasket.)
I think nonprophets is used, I would wait till the stove is cool clean out all coals and ashes, then I'd hook a shopvac up to air inlet (rear bottom) and vac it out.

Hope this helps

WoodButcher

raven · Mar 1, 2010

There was a good bit of info about this stove on a post 3 or 4 months ago. This yr i have been laying one 4 to 8 inch diameter round on each side north south. I like Beech or any good hard wood for this. I then fill in between with a good layer of small splits of soft Maple or Cherry and Pine. These are not packed tight, there loose enough to allow the air to flow through them. I then put 3 large splits on top east west. i drop a starter in front by the air inlet and light er up. the door is cracked open for about 5 minutes or so . this has worked great all yr, and no problem hitting 500 in 30 min. or so on the back rear corners. I just leave the intake wide open until i hit the top temp i want and then ill back it down, more often than not to about 1/4 open. I do get smoke starting up. I no longer use the ash pan and i choose to leave an inch or so of ash in there for start up.Oh by the way the small splits....and i mean small are north south also. I am running a 20 inch vert to a tee and the about 24 ft of flex up an insulated exterior brick with tile liner.

nelraq · Mar 1, 2010

Hi BeGreen,

My chimney comes straight up from the back of the stove - 13.5 feet. No elbows at all. I added the 4 feet you suggested earlier today, but it made no difference. Just before dark, I added another piece for a total add on of 5.5 feet.

Just lit a fire - I think it could be burning a little more vigourously - hard to tell, but will see how fast the thermometer rises.

I live in the Okanagan Valley - in a town called Vernon - just north of Kelowna.

As to my wood: I just purchased a good quality moisture meter and checked it against a pro model at a local sawmill - it is dead accurate!

Since the meter acquisition, I have measured each and every split that goes into the Oslo. Moisture has varied from around 6% to 14%. I haven't put anything in over 14%. the fire going right now is a mix of fir and pine - the fir was 11%; the pine was 9 %.

Just checked the stove -- the temp is up to 400 degrees after light up 30 minutes ago. That's way better than normal. the stove , however, was still warm from this pm's fire. That does make a difference. Looking forward to lighting a fire in the am when the stove is cold.

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