HELP~ Auger stops after 5-10 mins after Start~Up Mode...

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Lauryn8490

New Member
Mar 3, 2010
5
Eastern MA
I have an Englander 25-PDV pellet stove. After start-up mode the blower comes on, the auger is still turning for about 5-10 mins then it stops. So the pellets stop coming out, and then the stove shuts down. No error codes. I have done cleaning, read the manuals, I can't figure it out. Please let me know if anyone else has had this happen, and what to do.
Thanx in advance...
 
Lauryn8490 said:
I have an Englander 25-PDV pellet stove. After start-up mode the blower comes on, the auger is still turning for about 5-10 mins then it stops. So the pellets stop coming out, and then the stove shuts down. No error codes. I have done cleaning, read the manuals, I can't figure it out. Please let me know if anyone else has had this happen, and what to do.
Thanx in advance...
Click to expand...
Top or bottom auger? It sounds like one of the auger motors is bad. Or an auger screw is loose. Take off the back panel cover, check for loose auger screws and look to see that the bottom auger turns continuously. The top one cycles on for approx 2-5 sec on and then off for 11-12 sec .
 
Lauryn8490 said:
It is the bottom auger that stops turning. It turns the whole start~up mode. Then it stops 5-10 mins after.
Click to expand...

I had the identical thing happen to my neighbor`s 25 PDV. You need a new auger motor but you might get by temporarily by exchanging the top and bottom motors.(simple task) They are the same and since the top one only runs intermittently it might work fine at least for a while since there might be less of a strain on it when coupled to the top auger vs on the bottom.
It`s worth a try for a temp fix.
 
Gio said:
Lauryn8490 said:
It is the bottom auger that stops turning. It turns the whole start~up mode. Then it stops 5-10 mins after.
Click to expand...

I had the identical thing happen to my neighbor`s 25 PDV. You need a new auger motor but you might get by temporarily by exchanging the top and bottom motors.(simple task) They are the same and since the top one only runs intermittently it might work fine at least for a while since there might be less of a strain on it when coupled to the top auger vs on the bottom.
It`s worth a try for a temp fix.
Click to expand...

Yes, swap the motors as they are the same, and see if the problem follows.
 
The stove mfg date is 10/04, we have owned it for 2 1/2 years, never a problem till now. I didn't think it was the Auger because it works in start~up mode.
 
Lauryn8490 said:
The stove mfg date is 10/04, we have owned it for 2 1/2 years, never a problem till now. I didn't think it was the Auger because it works in start~up mode.
Click to expand...
If it consistantly stops at exactly the same time after startup it might not be the auger and I`d be more inclined to look elsewhere but you have to start troubleshooting the obvious first and at this point swapping the motors would still be the thing to do. Trouble shooting is often a process of elimination.
 
Or you can simply ignore any suggestions offered here and call Englander directly for tech assisstance.
 
Franks said:
Or take advantage of the tax credit and buy a new stove!
Click to expand...
Now Franks, be serious. The OP said nothing related to wanting or needing another stove.
It would be an utterly foolish thing to do just for the possibility of a bad auger motor.
 
Not if your like me and you are sometimes DYING for an excuse to upgrade. I'm half tempted to throw a football at my flat screen so I'm "forced" to buy one of those new 3D TVs that are coming out. I just mention it because some folks arent aware they may be able to sell their old stove for $500, buy a new one for $1500 and have a net cost after the tax rebate of $550 and ending up with a brand new stove with a warranty, etc.

As far as me being serious...you've read enough of my posts for me to ask you...are you serious about me being serious? seriously!
 
Franks said:
Not if your like me and you are sometimes DYING for an excuse to upgrade. I'm half tempted to throw a football at my flat screen so I'm "forced" to buy one of those new 3D TVs that are coming out. I just mention it because some folks arent aware they may be able to sell their old stove for $500, buy a new one for $1500 and have a net cost after the tax rebate of $550 and ending up with a brand new stove with a warranty, etc.

As far as me being serious...you've read enough of my posts for me to ask you...are you serious about me being serious? seriously!
Click to expand...

I guess thats a good way to look at it too , Franks. I gave a perfectly good 36" TV away just so I could get a new flat screen.
 
Check the vacuum hose where it attaches to the combustion blower. It gets hot here and can get hard and crack, causing a leak. There is usually enough hose to cut it off and reattach. If not you can buy fuel line hose at an auto parts store. This has happened to me. Stoves starts and shuts off after a couple minutes. I keep about 8 ft. of hose on hand.
 
Is there a low limit switch on those? If its consistent, and there is a low limit switch it being bad is a common problem. I cant remember if there is one or not it's been three years since I've worked on stoves.
 
Control Panel does give the temporary timed Over-ride for the "low limit switch" to allow Proof of sustained burn.

After control panel times-out the "low limit switch" now being active (Closed) will allow auger feed until any other flame-out condition.

Your "low limit snap switch" is defective...It is a Normally Open Switch (N/O)...which Closes when heated to rated temperature.

Yours is staying open always...needs replaced. Or wire has come loose???

The 5-10 minutes you are seeing is the CP's timed "Grace Period" to allow low limit switch to get heated (Closed) and take over the auger circuit.

This is a feature to keep from emptying your hopper into a stove with no fire in it.

Note: There are 2 Snap Switches in the auger circuit and their functions are Very different. Be sure of which one you are working on.

Unplug Stove before exposing energized circuits!
 
Master of Smoke said:
Control Panel does give the temporary timed Over-ride for the "low limit switch" to allow Proof of sustained burn.

After control panel times-out the "low limit switch" now being active (Closed) will allow auger feed until any other flame-out condition.

Your "low limit snap switch" is defective...It is a Normally Open Switch (N/O)...which Closes when heated to rated temperature.

Yours is staying open always...needs replaced. Or wire has come loose???

The 5-10 minutes you are seeing is the CP's timed "Grace Period" to allow low limit switch to get heated (Closed) and take over the auger circuit.

This is a feature to keep from emptying your hopper into a stove with no fire in it.

Note: There are 2 Snap Switches in the auger circuit and their functions are Very different. Be sure of which one you are working on.

Unplug Stove before exposing energized circuits!
Click to expand...

According to the wiring diagram there are no snap switches in the stove and definitely no low limit snap switch. This stove has a thermal sensor that connect directly to the control board . The OP stated no E codes were displayed. E codes are mostly vacuum related. This leads me to believe it is a bad auger motor since it is exactly as what I`ve experienced with another 25 PDV.
 
the motor is the issue , plain and simple. its overheating and stopping , this could be due to the motor simply wearing out , or excessive drag in the auger tube , check the mouth of the tube for carbon buildup , if found scrape it out with a screwdriver blade or similar. if this doesnt solve the issue , as gio said , swap the motors , it may last quite a while up on top and the upper motor should be fresh as it only runs about 10% of the time at most. if the motor still wont cut it up on top , ordeer a replacement , cost is 130.98 plus shipping/handling if ordered from ESW.
 
stoveguy2esw said:
the motor is the issue , plain and simple. its overheating and stopping , this could be due to the motor simply wearing out , or excessive drag in the auger tube , check the mouth of the tube for carbon buildup , if found scrape it out with a screwdriver blade or similar. if this doesnt solve the issue , as gio said , swap the motors , it may last quite a while up on top and the upper motor should be fresh as it only runs about 10% of the time at most. if the motor still wont cut it up on top , ordeer a replacement , cost is 130.98 plus shipping/handling if ordered from ESW.
Click to expand...

has Englander had a problem w/ feed motors lately, Mike? I have had a slew of people calling about them, and asking them if we can get a replacement for them... One guy has gone thru 5 motors in his insert, got fed up w/ it and bought a Harman from us... he said it was no problem caling and getting the motors, and you guys ship 'em out quick, just a problem having to haul the thing out and replace it every time on his own.
 
If I find that the auger motors in my stove don`t last long I`ll be looking for a better quality one than what it originally came with. (after warranty runs out) . I know these are made by Merkle Koff, but for $130 bucks they should be more durable.
Since the combustion and distr motors (identical in the PDVC) are made by Fasco (in China) I have to wonder if the auger motors are made there too?
 
Gio said:
If I find that the auger motors in my stove don`t last long I`ll be looking for a better quality one than what it originally came with. (after warranty runs out) . I know these are made by Merkle Koff, but for $130 bucks they should be more durable.
Since the combustion and distr motors (identical in the PDVC) are made by Fasco (in China) I have to wonder if the auger motors are made there too?
Click to expand...

Gio,

The FASCO motors I have seen have been made all over the place.

Currently I have one from Mexico and one from the US, I also had one made in China that kicked the bucket, and two from Mexico that also kicked the bucket.

The insides of these critters are like a box of chocolates you never know what you are getting.
 
SmokeyTheBear said:
Gio said:
If I find that the auger motors in my stove don`t last long I`ll be looking for a better quality one than what it originally came with. (after warranty runs out) . I know these are made by Merkle Koff, but for $130 bucks they should be more durable.
Since the combustion and distr motors (identical in the PDVC) are made by Fasco (in China) I have to wonder if the auger motors are made there too?
Click to expand...

Gio,

The FASCO motors I have seen have been made all over the place.

Currently I have one from Mexico and one from the US, I also had one made in China that kicked the bucket, and two from Mexico that also kicked the bucket.

The insides of these critters are like a box of chocolates you never know what you are getting.
Click to expand...

I think the Whitman`s samplers have a chart that tell you.
 
Gio said:
SmokeyTheBear said:
Gio said:
If I find that the auger motors in my stove don`t last long I`ll be looking for a better quality one than what it originally came with. (after warranty runs out) . I know these are made by Merkle Koff, but for $130 bucks they should be more durable.
Since the combustion and distr motors (identical in the PDVC) are made by Fasco (in China) I have to wonder if the auger motors are made there too?
Click to expand...

Gio,

The FASCO motors I have seen have been made all over the place.

Currently I have one from Mexico and one from the US, I also had one made in China that kicked the bucket, and two from Mexico that also kicked the bucket.

The insides of these critters are like a box of chocolates you never know what you are getting.
Click to expand...

I think the Whitman`s samplers have a chart that tell you.
Click to expand...

Yes they and a couple of others provide such guides, the only problem is that Whitman doesn't make pellet stoves :-S.
 
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