I need help (tips) threading 1.25 black pipe

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leatherguy

Member
Aug 18, 2008
47
central me
Can any body make any suggestions. I bought 10 lenghts of pipe unthreaded located a power and manual threader ridgid 12-r .
Started my first cut using lots of oil (oiler came w/threader) goes good then fetches up , i reverse it oil again but it has torn out several threads.
Try it again and it is gouging out the steel. I cut it off and try by hand very similar results junk!!. I check the die and one cutter has a chunk out.
I call a friend and brings me a new die, I try it manually and it cuts good but on the reverse it seems to catch and tear out threads.
Is it possible that the steel is that bad it's from mid east or something sch 40 astm etc etc. I'm not a rookie at treading pipe, I threaded 1" pipe and 1.25 pipe
for my dairy barn vacuum and water lines.
Anybody have any suggestions short of returning pipe I wanted 1.25 for my furnace run instead of 2 - 1' pex lines? thanks
 
Sounds like the pipe may be not the best, can you get a hold of a scrap piece of differant pipe and try your threader on that.
 
If the threader doesn't work I wouldn't give up on black pipe. You can find any and all possible connections needed at grainger.com. Buy the standard length stuff at your local big box store. May save you some time over threading your own even if it is slightly more costly...
 
See if yo can locate- borrow - a Rigid 65R, it opens up when it's done, foolproof. I know in my area we were offered domestic, or Asian pipe at a price difference of almosst 20 / length. Maybe you do get what you pay for!!
 
Chris S said:
See if yo can locate- borrow - a Rigid 65R, it opens up when it's done, foolproof. I know in my area we were offered domestic, or Asian pipe at a price difference of almost 20 / length. Maybe you do get what you pay for!!
Click to expand...

You no need pay more. Is black pipe. Is generic. All same!
 
I've done some more research and people say that a lot of pipe has hard and soft spots because of recycled metals.
Also when threading they take the die head apart instead of reversing. I like the 65-r idea.
Thanks
 
Chris, on the 65-r when you open up the head do the dies slide back, its hard to tell from pictures on ebay
also what other tools do the same. I see a ridgid 504 with a looks like release handle? Thanks
 
I'm not familiar with the 504. The 65 R is adjustable up to 2". When used you set it to cut, and when the threads are cut- to its' preset depth, the die mechanically opens up so that you are not reversing on teh threads you just cut. With it open, you then reverse to start the new cut, and close the die. It's very simple, and makes the same length of thread on the pipe every time. You often see these on the machines they have at HD, less the handle. On our smaller dies ( 3/8-1" ) when threads start tearing up is usually when we buy a new set of cutters.
As for the pipe being generic, I'm not sure I agree with that, but we can disagree here as well as offer advise
 
The problem most likely is the fact that the pipe is made in China. American made pipe works fine, if you can find it. We have been having the same problem with 1.25" pipe, sometimes the 1" threads are being ripped out as well. The threads are being ripped out on the threading portion not when the die is removed. Seems it has been this way for the past two years. Cheap recycled metal from China.
 
Good quality cutting oil can help. The crappier the steel the more likely actual thread cutting oil might help. Good quality steel isn't all that fussy usually.
 
DaveBP said:
Good quality cutting oil can help. The crappier the steel the more likely actual thread cutting oil might help. Good quality steel isn't all that fussy usually.
Click to expand...
Yes, you need sulphurized pipe thread cutting oil. In my experience nothing else will do, Randy
 
Chris S said:
...
As for the pipe being generic, I'm not sure I agree with that, but we can disagree here as well as offer advise
Click to expand...

No disagreement here, just a failed attempt at sardonic humor.

Some bean counters at one of our formerly local manufacturers decided 'generic' cast iron compressor housings would save ever so much money. Which I suppose they did, until the warrantee costs of oil and refrigerant leaking out the porosities started accumulating. But no problem, the guilty parties were promoted an gone by then.

--ewd
 
I'm glad we agree on that point. Unfortunately the big box stores concentrate strictly on price. I think they all learned that from Sam Walton.
Charlotte pipe spends a lot of money on full page ads in the trade magazines to convince us that American made is better. I think the QC on the foreign products is the problem, and maybe it's a problem they don't care to fix.
If your choices are fast, cheap and good- pick 2 because you can't have all 3
 
The biggest problem with the Chinese (and lots of others ) manufactured goods isn't that they are incapable of doing it right. In most cases they know how to do it right; after all, we and the Japanese taught them most of what they know. The problem is that their buyers don't demand it of them and that their quality control systems are mostly run on the honor system. Like the financial, insurance and real estate systems here in the states have been for the last decade or so.
 
You could dispense with trying to do it yourself and if you have a Home Depot nearby they will do it for you if you buy the pipe there. FWIW.
 
ewdudley said:
Chris S said:
See if yo can locate- borrow - a Rigid 65R, it opens up when it's done, foolproof. I know in my area we were offered domestic, or Asian pipe at a price difference of almost 20 / length. Maybe you do get what you pay for!!
Click to expand...

You no need pay more. Is black pipe. Is generic. All same!
Click to expand...

Maybe not.......I read somewhere about a year ago that the Chinese were specifying American made steel pipe and fittings for all the nuke plants they are building. Don't know if that is true or not because I wouldn't know how to check the veracity of that statement. Mighty interesting if it is though.
 
leatherguy said:
Can any body make any suggestions. I bought 10 lenghts of pipe unthreaded located a power and manual threader ridgid 12-r .
Started my first cut using lots of oil (oiler came w/threader) goes good then fetches up , i reverse it oil again but it has torn out several threads.
Try it again and it is gouging out the steel. I cut it off and try by hand very similar results junk!!. I check the die and one cutter has a chunk out.
I call a friend and brings me a new die, I try it manually and it cuts good but on the reverse it seems to catch and tear out threads.
Is it possible that the steel is that bad it's from mid east or something sch 40 astm etc etc. I'm not a rookie at treading pipe, I threaded 1" pipe and 1.25 pipe
for my dairy barn vacuum and water lines.
Anybody have any suggestions short of returning pipe I wanted 1.25 for my furnace run instead of 2 - 1' pex lines? thanks
Click to expand...

Double check to see if all the dies in the head are in numerical order. It'll still thread with a couple reversed but the results will be similar to what you are experiencing. When you reverse the threader to back it off the pipe, give it just a tap to back it up, clean the shaving out of the die, then go forward again just a smidge, then reverse all the way off. If the dies are a little dull they will tend to hang on the thread and rip it up. Are you using regular thread cutting oil or motor oil?
 
DaveBP wow, sounds like a political statement , and on the cusp of an historic vote in Washington. Bring it!!
or are we on the wrong forum?
 
I didn't have a pipe threader so I had to stop at HD several times on my to and from work when I did my piping. Although, I didn't buy my fittings there they would thread any pipe you bought there. One of the guys was nice enough to cut and thread all my short 9" 1.25 diameter lengths on my primary loops. The HD pipe is of course all Chinese but the fittings at the plumbing house were also Mueller Made in China just like HD. The Rigid threader at HD would pop open when done like others have mentioned here and it worked pretty slick. Try what Heaterman suggested with the manual threader before backing it out and make sure the dies are in correctly. You should not be having all these problems and I doubt it's the Chinese pipe even though the quality may not be as good.

Ironic that the Chinese specifiy American pipe when they have something like a nuke plant to build.
 
Thanks for all the replies.
Heaterman, The oil I assume was threading oil (ridgid oiler and strainer pan) But I will get some ridgid extreme, I checked the order of the dies early (after 2nd attempt) I have located a 65R threader
and have been reading an instruction sheet. My theader should be here at the end of the week, If HD was a little closer I would have bought pipe there, Its almost an hour one way for me and I newer in a million years thought it would be this difficult. I piped around a 60 stall dairy barn water and vacuum lines no problem (before we bought anything from china) 1977
 
Using a rigid pipe threader, the die usually opens when done. The info the guys are telling you is spot on.


Snowy
 
I took some pipe to HD and they threaded just fine on their machine. I did notice that the threading oil is clear and thick.
I'll keep you posted when I get my ridgid 65R threader.
 
Good advice from Heaterman the dies need to be in order and sharp with no chips.If this does not work sounds like you have enough pipe to thread, I would Rent a Rigid 300 machine with the oiler bucket and the adjustable die head,you open the dies up at the end of the cut ,and you can make adjustments to the depth of cut and get it just right for your particular pipe and fittings.you can't use too much oil,Threading oil and continuously pump it on while threading.I think you will be able to thread any kind of pipe with that set up and fast.
 
Just a follow up, I got my used Ridgid 65R-C threader, ridgid dark thread cutting oil and lo and behold I can cut threads slick as u know what.
Thanks for your help everybody.
Now to order my boiler, anybody want to help with the control part of install, oil boiler, tasso wood boiler (to small) and 40 kw gasser in garage with
1350 gallon storage in basement. Free beer and food!!!!!
I have been following Piker's Froeling install, I wish I had an extra 5k to go with my budget. I keep going to Hollywood slots maybe I might get lucky. (I'm dead even)
 
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