welding the xxv firepot (5 holes)?

Jim,

Isn't Harman replacing the burnpots because of the issue's with the holes?

jay

Welding those holes shut will probably void your warranty, if you are concerned about them
get the burnpot replaced instead.

I left the holes alone on my stove and so far it is just fine. This is the 4th season with it.

What are these holes and what do they do???


Piccy please.

Snowy

Maybe just plug them with a "Quick Steel" type two-part high temp product. Can be drilled out again if needed. Very hard to drill out welded material as the weld is much harder than the surrounding material and the drill will drift.
Most burn pots I have seen appear to be a general grade stainless steel, probably 304 (just a guess). You would use a TIG welder with an ER308L rod. Realistically, pretty much any welding option will work on 304, and could just fusion weld with Oxy/Acet and plain steel rod, but the weld will surface rust.
Mike -

jtakeman said:

Jim,

Isn't Harman replacing the burnpots because of the issue's with the holes?

jay

Click to expand...

I've never heard of any problems being attributed to the holes themselves. I'm not really sure what one hopes to gain by welding them closed (except maybe weakening the burnpot itself). Good luck none the less.

The holes are welded to prevent burning pellets from damaging the auger... the replacement pot doesn't have the extra holes.

You can just use a MIG welder with any plain old wire... as stated the welds will rust a little... no biggie. I'ts about a 30 second weld job if that.

krooser said:

The holes are welded to prevent burning pellets from damaging the auger... the replacement pot doesn't have the extra holes.

You can just use a MIG welder with any plain old wire... as stated the welds will rust a little... no biggie. I'ts about a 30 second weld job if that.

Click to expand...

I have seen the damaged auger tip on stoves with and without the burnpot holes. I think the problem is either in the materials or the welding done on the auger itself. The holes were mostly done away with because they didn't "help" with combustion, but I have never heard that they were the source of any problems.

Delta-T said:

krooser said:

The holes are welded to prevent burning pellets from damaging the auger... the replacement pot doesn't have the extra holes.

You can just use a MIG welder with any plain old wire... as stated the welds will rust a little... no biggie. I'ts about a 30 second weld job if that.

Click to expand...

I have seen the damaged auger tip on stoves with and without the burnpot holes. I think the problem is either in the materials or the welding done on the auger itself. The holes were mostly done away with because they didn't "help" with combustion, but I have never heard that they were the source of any problems.

Click to expand...

The extra holes created excessive carbon buildup where the auger tube and burnpot meet. With the extra air available from those holes the pellets were burning in the auger tube causing the tube to erode away or crack. Since I had my pot replaced I have no carbon buildup in the auger tube, which was difficult to clean and the pellets no longer burn in the tube.....

I have seen the auger tip warp and grind against the auger tube, wearing a trough right through the steel. I can see why the holes are suspect, i do not doubt your logic, but I've seen the same thing on stoves with said holes and stoves without. Even with the extra air those pellets and carbon are going to have a tough time getting to the 2500 °F mark (what I assume is about the temp you'd need to wear away at the tube). If the temps are allowing the auger to "swell" and increase friction on the tube then I can understand that. We almost always see the auger tip as the culprit for the crack between the burnpot and auger tube, or the worn spot in the auger tube, and if I look at replacement augers sitting on my shelf I can usually find 1 out of 5 that is made wrong (either the welds are huge and out of place, or the beveled tip is extremely thin, or the flights themselves are not even). I'm glad if replacing the burnpot fixes the problem, but did you also replace the tube and the auger itself? Really, I'm just asking so that people with no problems don't start welding things (and maybe creating problems) in hopes of preventing something that is maybe not associated with the action. I'd think a glob of 2500 degree RTV applied to the underside of the 5 holes would plug them sufficiently and not subject the burnpot to anything damaging.

I am shocked AND appalled that the BEST STOVE IN THE UNIVERSE could have such issues.

Delta-T said:

jtakeman said:

Jim,

Isn't Harman replacing the burnpots because of the issue's with the holes?

jay

Click to expand...

I've never heard of any problems being attributed to the holes themselves. I'm not really sure what one hopes to gain by welding them closed (except maybe weakening the burnpot itself). Good luck none the less.

Click to expand...

AFAIK, There have been a few members here that have burnpots replaced by Harman due to the 5 holes and burnt auger issues. I could due a search and prove it but I am just too lazy tonight and my Omega doesn't have the 5 hole issue. So I really don't care and don't need the luck you offered. But thanks anyway!

Delta-T said:

We almost always see the auger tip as the culprit for the crack between the burnpot and auger tube, or the worn spot in the auger tube,

Click to expand...

I stand corrected, I am sure you are right as to the cause of the auger tube failure. You have to admit that the stove does burn better without the 5 holes, at least that is what I notice. The flame appears to have moved away from the tube and I can actually see unburned pellets in the tube where as before the flame was (in) the tube. It's probably not a necessary thing to do, but I see it as an improvement in my stoves burn quality.

goatman-68 said:

Delta-T said:

We almost always see the auger tip as the culprit for the crack between the burnpot and auger tube, or the worn spot in the auger tube,

Click to expand...

I stand corrected, I am sure you are right as to the cause of the auger tube failure. You have to admit that the stove does burn better without the 5 holes, at least that is what I notice. The flame appears to have moved away from the tube and I can actually see unburned pellets in the tube where as before the flame was (in) the tube. It's probably not a necessary thing to do, but I see it as an improvement in my stoves burn quality.

Click to expand...

There has to be a reason why Harman dished the holes. So if it wasn't the tube failure or burn out issue. Was it just to improve the burn quality????

I cannot say emphatically why they got rid of the holes. I'm not even trying to say that plugging the holes will not improve something. Heck, if plugging the holes makes for better combustion and less cleaning, do it. I just have never seen a tech bulletin that say the holes are the cause of anything. I have never replaced a burnpot for the auger tube gash. Putting nails in the holes for short term experiment was very smart. If you note an improvement then run with it. Keep me "in the know" for the long term effects/impact and if its all positive then i will be happy. I'm not trying to rain on any parades.

May your pellets leave no ash (traditional pellet stove prayer).