Looking for some input on wood shed.

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jcims

jcims

Member
Nov 18, 2008
106
Midwest
Hi Folks,

Just got done with my first burning season, and digging splits out from under 11" of snow has convinced me that i need a wood shed. I'd like to build a bit of a dual purpose structure, part for the wood and part for a bit of storage (quad, small trailer, saws, etc).

This is what i've come up with at first pass. It's a pretty rough SketchUp drawing, but it gets the point across.

S9tH5.png


6x6 posts
2x8 beams (doubled up)
2x6 rafters 16" oc (12' span)

Any suggestions? Is it too deep? Thoughts on the roof? We do get snow here, as i mentioned above. I don't plan on putting a back on it to help promote airflow, we're out in the boonies and nobody is going to be looking at the back of it anyway.

The gussets (what's the carpentry term for them?) look like they will be giving me a headache on a regular basis, any suggestions there? I might also add another 6" or so to the overall height. I didn't want to go too high, but at the same time don't want to be cramped.

Thanks!
 
jcims said:
2x6 rafters 16" oc (12' span)

Any suggestions? Is it too deep?
Click to expand...
Assuming you are planning 12 feet deep, I'd say that is too deep if you intend to fill the entire 12 feet from back to front with wood. IMHO, three rows (about 5 feet) is the max and still have decent drying. If you intend to run the rows N/S and leave spaces between them then the width is OK. Same if you want to leave open space at the front with the rows running E/W in the back.

Since the open woodshed part is attached to an enclosed section, braces are not really needed to prevent racking.

You need to consider what frost jacking could do to the shed. The enclosed section might move different than the open section. I would consider pouring a concrete slab on grade and not sink posts.

As for height, just high enough not to bump your head is ideal. I made mine way too high and of course have to fill it up to the rafters (9 & 1/2 feet). At that height the stacks can get quite precarious.

You might want to consider open stud walls instead of posts as you can stack against them rather than have to crib the ends. Cribbing the ends is a PITA.
 
Looks like a nice design. I wouldn't use the gussets. I would bolt through and use some rafter ties instead. Are you going to sink footing?
 
looks wise, that look great. really nice if you want to call it curb appeal
 
I like the design ! What is the flooring going to be inside and outside ? If depth is 12' and you will stack front to back with a path thru the center of each section it might be nice to put a slat wall across the back leave the center open for the path and cover the 1/3's with a wall. If you are planning stacking side to side filling .the whole shed it might be a little much unless you will only put in dry wood like LLigetfa suggested
The overall height could be a little less if you use the rafter ties instead of gussets and you won't need a hard hat .
 
LLigetfa said:
jcims said:
2x6 rafters 16" oc (12' span)

Any suggestions? Is it too deep?
Click to expand...
Assuming you are planning 12 feet deep, I'd say that is too deep if you intend to fill the entire 12 feet from back to front with wood. IMHO, three rows (about 5 feet) is the max and still have decent drying. If you intend to run the rows N/S and leave spaces between them then the width is OK. Same if you want to leave open space at the front with the rows running E/W in the back.

Since the open woodshed part is attached to an enclosed section, braces are not really needed to prevent racking.

You need to consider what frost jacking could do to the shed. The enclosed section might move different than the open section. I would consider pouring a concrete slab on grade and not sink posts.

As for height, just high enough not to bump your head is ideal. I made mine way too high and of course have to fill it up to the rafters (9 & 1/2 feet). At that height the stacks can get quite precarious.

You might want to consider open stud walls instead of posts as you can stack against them rather than have to crib the ends. Cribbing the ends is a PITA.
Click to expand...

Great advice. :) Covered everything I would have said and more.
 
I agree with LLigetfa...the height is a little much..I would say 5ft. 8in. - 6 ft. height on the back and then the front at what ever your desired pitch comes out to be...(i.e...7 ft. - 8 ft., etc.). This height of course needs to be from the "floor", whatever may be used for the flooring.

On the 12 foot span,....Is 12 ft. the dimensions inside the post/walls or is the 12 ft. including your roof over hang?
 
Whoa! Thanks for the replies everyone!

Quick clarification (i had added it to the drawing but forgot to upload). Depth is 10' from front to back, the "12' span" is along the rise from beam to beam.

LLigetfa said:
Assuming you are planning 12 feet deep, I'd say that is too deep if you intend to fill the entire 12 feet from back to front with wood. IMHO, three rows (about 5 feet) is the max and still have decent drying. If you intend to run the rows N/S and leave spaces between them then the width is OK.
Click to expand...

I figure I'll keep the stacks in sections to ensure good airflow. The front will roughly face roughly SW and should get a bit of sun, but the stuff in the back isn't going to get anything.
LLigetfa said:
You need to consider what frost jacking could do to the shed. The enclosed section might move different than the open section. I would consider pouring a concrete slab on grade and not sink posts.
Click to expand...

I had planned on anchoring the posts onto 3'-4' poured piers...would those resist jacking at all? I like having a good excuse to pour the whole thing, so feel free to say no. haha
LLigetfa said:
You might want to consider open stud walls instead of posts as you can stack against them rather than have to crib the ends. Cribbing the ends is a PITA.
Click to expand...

Not sure i get this one.

Tony H said:
What is the flooring going to be inside and outside ?
Click to expand...

Not sure yet, was thinking gravel, but LLigetfa might convince me that concrete is better. :)

Tony H said:
If depth is 12’ and you will stack front to back with a path thru the center of each section it might be nice to put a slat wall across the back leave the center open for the path and cover the 1/3’s with a wall
Click to expand...

Had me right to the end. Not sure what you mean by 'cover the 1/3's with a wall'. (Ate a big lunch and am a bit sleepy...haha)

kenny chaos said:
Rule #1 in barn and shed design is to double what you think you need.
Click to expand...

Isn't that true! I'm a little space constrained in this specific area though. I am trying to figure out how to make the shed bigger...i was in a 10'x12' prefab today and it felt pretty cramped.

Thanks for the feedback everybody!
 
I don't know your snow load, but in these parts we use the width+thickness rule...ie a 2x6 will span 8' (2+6=8). You may need to beef up your rafters. I do like that design and I may borrow it.
 
Jack Straw said:
I don't know your snow load, but in these parts we use the width+thickness rule...ie a 2x6 will span 8' (2+6=8). You may need to beef up your rafters. I do like that design and I may borrow it.
Click to expand...
.
Thanks Jack. I was going to check that with the local engineer's office to be on the safe side. I don't need to get a permit for this one due to the square footage of the enclosed area being less than 200 ft^2, but they have some good folks that will keep me square. I'll revise the plans to 2x8 to get a little closer and see what they say
 
I sunk 6x6 posts 5 feet deep with concrete and the frost was jacking them. I had to drive down twelve helical screw anchors and bolt two of them to each post to stop the jacking. My woodshed is adjacent (but not connected) to my toolshed which is on grade and I watch it move independently. If they were connected, the frost would tear them apart.

My woodshed has a concrete slab floor and I regred sinking posts. If I had a do-over, I would anchor stud walls to the slab instead. I originally sank the posts to resist racking but your adjacent shed design would stop the racking anyway.
 
LLigetfa said:
I sunk 6x6 posts 5 feet deep with concrete and the frost was jacking them. I had to drive down twelve helical screw anchors and bolt two of them to each post to stop the jacking. My woodshed is adjacent (but not connected) to my toolshed which is on grade and I watch it move independently. If they were connected, the frost would tear them apart.

My woodshed has a concrete slab floor and I regred sinking posts. If I had a do-over, I would anchor stud walls to the slab instead. I originally sank the posts to resist racking but your adjacent shed design would stop the racking anyway.
Click to expand...

Yikes, Mother Nature isn't a wimp, that's for certain. What about frost heaving with the pad? Do you think that would be an issue? (central Ohio here) I'd probably pour a 1-2' apron around it and maybe rebar it up a bit? I'd imagine 4" would be plenty, the wood load is spread out all over and there wouldn't be anything heavy in the shed.
 
jcims said:
Whoa! Thanks for the replies everyone!

Quick clarification (i had added it to the drawing but forgot to upload). Depth is 10' from front to back, the "12' span" is along the rise from beam to beam.


Tony H said:
What is the flooring going to be inside and outside ?
Click to expand...

Not sure yet, was thinking gravel, but LLigetfa might convince me that concrete is better. :)

Tony H said:
If depth is 12’ and you will stack front to back with a path thru the center of each section it might be nice to put a slat wall across the back leave the center open for the path and cover the 1/3’s with a wall
Click to expand...

Had me right to the end. Not sure what you mean by 'cover the 1/3's with a wall'. (Ate a big lunch and am a bit sleepy...haha)


Thanks for the feedback everybody!
Click to expand...

It was not very clear on my part , here is what I mean : for each of the 2 bays if you divide the bay into 3 sections and stack wood on each end leaving a path thru the middle you might want to leave the center open all the way thru but build a wall along the back of the bays outer 2 sections so you can stack wood against it and not have to crib it on that end.
Of course you would only do this if drying wood in the shed if you dry elsewhere you would stack all the way across as airflow would not be an issue.
 
Ja, a 4" slab with rebar in it would be fine. The frost would lift it evenly as one unit. I have a 3" slab with 5" club foot and rebar on a one foot grid.
 
I used 4x4 posts on mine. Why 6x6 posts, there is not much weight being supported?
 
Nice building / woodshed. Iam a builder, if you have the post in the ground, and as big as your shed is you wont need any bracing at all. Looks good!!
 
LLigetfa said:
6x6 posts was the look SWMBO was going for.
Click to expand...

Can't argue with success. The final product looks awesome.
 
Looks good to me . . . I eagerly await the pictures of the finished project.
 
firefighterjake said:
Looks good to me . . . I eagerly await the pictures of the finished project.
Click to expand...

Getting quotes for the concrete work now and working up a few options for the CFO. :)
 
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