slight hydraulic issue w/ splitter (with picture)

have the same splitter with 60 hours on it and i noticed the same thing one day - a little grease coming out - wiped it off and never had a problem yet.. wonder if you could just wd40 the little bike chain looking thing across from the handle (sorry don't know the name of it)

kinda have the same problem with mine, will work fine for 1/2 hour then doesnt go back all the way???
made a thicker gasket for it thinking it is hitting the end, still did it the other day but not as bad so gonna try an even thicker one this week.







there is no gasket on it from the factory but it wont hurt for you to make one from very thin material.

Terry

I just replaced the valve on my MTD. Here is a reference link to the valve that had been on mine. It was an Energy valve. Might just be an O ring.

http://www.energymfg.com/pdf/17498X.pdf

and parts for it...

http://www.energymfg.com/online-catalog/log-splitter-valve-accessories.html

for the record, I've never seen this specific valve, and I'm not even sure what the mechanism is that kicks it back at the end of the stroke.

The cover on the right end looks similar to most other hyd valves that I've had apart. There's usually a spring and an o-ring in there that will leak something aweful if it gets crushed. Two of the banks did that to me on a JD backhoe. There was a small hole with a screen at the bottom of that cover thingie with the two small bolts holding it on. In that case the cover wasn't intended to be fluid tight, just dust proof.

Loon, MAYBE it's leaking slightly more than it's supposed to or there is no hole to deal with the leaking fluid, so it fills up with oil and won't retract.

MAYBE it won't kick out of the retract because the o-ring is crushed and getting in the way of things in there.

In either case, pull that off and take a look. On every one that I can remember the spring was actually bolted on so that cover was only a dust cover and something for the spring to push against but nothing shot out when I took it off, but be careful, and catch any pieces that are broken also.

thanks ben, will take it apart again and post pics as i have no friggen idea why its doing what its doing????

The cover at the back of that valve is only a dust cover there is no seal or gasket. There is a slight amount of grease that is used to lube the balls that ride into the detent grooves. The problem is most likely a worn O-ring or scored valve body if hydraulic fluid leaks from the back of the valve.

Fluid leakage by the rear O-ring can keep the detent from working properly.

I would definitely contact MTD, or got to where you bought it & complain.
With the recalls due to the valve issues on the MTD splitters, you should/could get a new one (valve) from them at no cost.
Worth a try.

Good point Dave, why mess with it if it's their defective design, and they're willing to make it right.

If not, it could be failing to kick out because of the detent balls and springs and the seapage out the back end is just the result of this increased pressure for longer than usual.

Looks like the links show that back cover is non servicable, and you spend $40 for the back end or $85 for the whole valve, I'd go for the whole valve.

The thing with this valve, including the ones on the Speeco, TS, Troy B., etc. is they are not adjustable for the detent. This was one of the reasons I replaced mine with a Prince valve.

FuzzyOne said:

The thing with this valve, including the ones on the Speeco, TS, Troy B., etc. is they are not adjustable for the detent. This was one of the reasons I replaced mine with a Prince valve.

Click to expand...

+1
If you have to replace the valve yourself, the Prince is even "Made in the USA" 3 year warranty, adjustable detent
1/2" & 3/4" ports:
http://stores.daltonhydraulic.com/-strse-Logsplitter-Parts-cln-Valves/Categories.bok

bought it at a big box store here but cant find the reciept,will be stopping by the store today and see what they have to say?
purchased about year and a half ago.

the top pic shows the gasket i put on..

I would not seal up the end with the gasket. As trip posted, the cover is just to keep dirt out, the spool is suupposed to be sealed by an oring usually in the body bore, occasionally in a groove on the spool. If that seal is leaking slowly, better to have it weep out of the cover than to build up pressure inside the cover. Pressure buildup will either prevent the spool from moving properly, sometimes hold the spoool part shifted, or sometimes break or crack the cover.

see about waranty, or pull the spool out and replace the oring. If it is just an occasional drop, just run it.

the store told me that there wasnt a recall on my unit?

and the lady i talked to was a bit of a b!tch?? so i am gonna take the new gasket off and try again today.

can i see the o ring you guys are talking about with the cover off? or do i have to get in it deeper? i cant find an o ring the way it is sitting....

thanks eh
Terry

I still haven't figured out what the mechanism to kick out the detent at the end of the stroke is, so I may be wrong.

But if it's like other valve, then the o-ring is against or inside of the cast iron body of the valve. The inside of that cover should not be filled with oil unless it's leaking.

The o-ring may be in a countersunk-recess and covered with a washer in which case you would probably take the thingie off the end of the spool or maybe loosen something enough to be able to see if the o-ring is damaged.

Or the o-ring may be in a groove inside of the bore, in which case you would have to take the spool out, which probably isn't as bad as it sounds. Just don't pound on anything, it should all come apart and go back together with some wiggleing and twisting and other gentle persuasion. Worst case you end up with a new Prince valve, new one sold for $60 shipped the other day on fleabay, and you won't get to have this fun for another 20-40 years, instead of 2.

Loon, if you're only concerned about the splitter not retracting after it's been used a while, then it's most likely filling up with oil and preventing the spool from moving back. you can confirm this by loosening both of those bolts a couple of turns when it does this and seeing if that lets you put the valve all the way back, you could do this with the splitter off or on if you can shut it off easily. if the oil leak isn't bad enough to concern you then just cut an oil drain into the bottom of the gasket and ignore it.

thanks eh!!

going out to the garage shortly and will check it out.

Terry

Here is a link to Energy hydraulics with a instruction sheet for typical valve.

Beware when working on the detent end of the valve there are 5 steel balls and two springs that can be easily lost.


http://www.energymfg.com/pdf/16445x.pdf

If I'm reading that diagram right, the detent spring assembly #16 unscrews from the spool and allows you to take of the retainer, backup washer and o-ring, without taking the spring assembly apart, but it WOULD be so much fun...

The spool can be removed by disconnecting the handle and dust cover then gentily pushing the stem out the back.
Attached is a pic.

my o ring must be inside the casing and not sure right now if i take the handle off and pull it through whats gonna happen? as the case seems to be sealed so not sure how i would replace it yet?

i shouldnt have any oil in the dust cover 'right'? thanks and still poking away...

Terry

The only seals that are on the valve are the O-rings. There should be little to no fluid in the dust cover, if more than a trace of fluid is in the dust cover it is a indicator that the O-ring is bad. When removing spool do not pull on the metal sleeves of the detent, this could cause the balls and spring to pop out.

ok gang found the problem and thanks everybody!!

undid the handle and pushed the rod back through the case and guess what was found? an o-ring that was flopping around,loose as all get out %-P

i know that the unit isn't all that expensive but why pay the cash when all i had to do is post some pics and have people that know whats up, fill me in

thanks again...

Terry

In the pic showing the complete spool you will see 2 small holes in the grooves of the spool. This I believe is where the pressure builds to kick out the detent. If the holes get dirt in them the detent will stick.