Goose accessibility thread...

  • Active since 1995, Hearth.com is THE place on the internet for free information and advice about wood stoves, pellet stoves and other energy saving equipment.

    We strive to provide opinions, articles, discussions and history related to Hearth Products and in a more general sense, energy issues.

    We promote the EFFICIENT, RESPONSIBLE, CLEAN and SAFE use of all fuels, whether renewable or fossil.
Status
Not open for further replies.
"As for the automatic shower cleaner, I think they may be designed for the more conventional setup with 4 walls to contain the spray. "

3 walls and a curtain will work fine.
 
Mary-Anne said:
If it is okay with everyone, I would prefer to go with the tile.
I do plan to have one of those automatic shower cleaners.
I have already done the same in the toilet.

Someone, probably Dune, should call the tile shop on Friday and talk to them and make sure there are the correct expectations on what will be done by whom.

I will call the tile shop in the morning.
 
I talked with the tile gentleman. He was very informative and helpful. He is aware of Goose's civil activities and had been to the house aproximately ten years ago. He wants us to do as much as possible to lower his extimate even further. If we are not capable, he will complete the tasks.
What I gathered so far;
1. The tub must be removed first. He thinks it is fiberglass (from memory). If so, a couple slices with a sawsall will make it easier to carry/fit through doorways.

2. As soon as the tub is gone, he will endeavor to make a site visit, at which time he can offer further advice.

3. Some means must be used to create a sloping surface towards the drain. Ordinarily this is not an issue, but in the case of handicapped bathrooms, if may be nessasary to carve into the floor
joists to achieve a slope, without a hard to navigate over lip. If we don't do this work, he will have to. The recommended pitch is 1/4" per foot, though any amount of pitch will cause the water
to flow towards the drain.

4. Once a slope is effected, the liner can be installed along with the floor drain (by me).

5. At that point, his installers would put down a sandmix base. He welcomed us to do that , if anyone was capable.

6. Hardy board for the walls is much prefered over duroc, and could be installed by us. We wouldn't need to mud the seams as this can be done by his installers without extra cost.

7. He feels terrible about what happened to Goose and wants to help MaryAnne and Goose as much as possible.

8. His biggest concern is the abundance of collectibles and projects which may hinder construction.


MaryAnne, Goose and Tim have my phone number if anyone wants to call me.
 
Goose, what are your drain pipes? PVC, ABS, copper or cast iron? I will be doing all the new work in PVC, but will have to adapt to whatever is there. If I know what you have, I may be able to scrouge up some otherwise expensive adapter parts (if it were copper for instance.) If cast iron, I will need to bring a bunch of gear I don't normaly carry around.

Also, abs is getting hard to find.
 
BeGreen said:
It's best to approach design with an open mind. Keep all ideas on the table and keep them coming. Some will work better than others. But leave the past design in the past. The future needs for this space have changed and should be the guiding criteria.

I need to head into town and start on some plumbing projects. But before I go, here is a for instance drawing. Note that this is just one possibility. The toilet has been moved to the tight sink location. The advantages are that a grab bar can be put on the wall to make it easier to get on and off of the toilet. The cold water plumbing is already there and it's not a big deal to move the toilet drain over a few feet. The sink area is now generous and allows easy access. There is an open shelving to the right to allow easy access. The shower area is generous and safe. A trench drain will prevent any water from going beyond this space.

Pardon me for jumping in late and I apologize if this was addressed later in the thread. For some reason, this thread is taking forever to load and I wanted to respond to this.

The toliet area in that plan does not allow sideways transfer, which may or may not be necessary depending on how well Goose can get in and out of the chair. I can't readily imagine a layout which would allow sideways transfer, but it is something to consider.

Also, I would stongly recommend ditching the old toliet and getting a 16" high "accessible" toliet; it makes a hugh difference for folks w/ disabilities.

I will post more later on what we went through getting the "cottage" ready for my FIL coming back from rehab in a wheelchair.

Peace,
- Sequoia
 
If the tub is cast iron you can break it apart with a sladge hammer.
 
I have good news and I have bad news.

The bad news is that absolutely no-one from hearth.com showed up today.
I was surprised. I had been expecting people. I hope this means Dune
can join us tomorrow.

The good news is that various other friends showed up. The bathroom demo is done.
The living room declutter is mostly done.
I still need to attack my office.

So, the first priority for handy people tomorrow is to work out what needs to be bought
to reconstruct the bathroom. We have the sink. We need new faucets for the sink.
We need new control for the shower. We need whatever goes on the wall. We need
blocking. We need formica. We need glue to stick onto the formica. We need whatever
the counter is made of and whatever holds it up. I am not sure what else.

Tim experimented with the junk wheelchair and concluded that the closet had to go,
so it is gone. We will want to put shelves into that space if we can fit them, but
that need not be a priority if time is an issue.

The other piece of good and bad news is that the insurance has approved Gooseirder
staying at rehab until May 6th, but it is certain that they will not approve him staying
beyond May 15th, so the house HAS to be accessible by then.

I have found another ramp I can get on Craigslist.
I have not heard back from the person selling it yet.
 
Dune said:
Goose, what are your drain pipes? PVC, ABS, copper or cast iron? I will be doing all the new work in PVC, but will have to adapt to whatever is there. If I know what you have, I may be able to scrouge up some otherwise expensive adapter parts (if it were copper for instance.) If cast iron, I will need to bring a bunch of gear I don't normaly carry around.

Also, abs is getting hard to find.

Far as I know, it's PVC (White, blue printing on it, glued joints) The house was built approx 1980 for whatever that is worth.

On the other side, the potable water is copper, although according to the plumber we have often used in the past, the people that built the house didn't always use the right grade (Yet another thing that our "oh so important to protect the consumer" code inspector did NOT catch...)

Gooserider
 
TreePapa said:
BeGreen said:
It's best to approach design with an open mind. Keep all ideas on the table and keep them coming. Some will work better than others. But leave the past design in the past. The future needs for this space have changed and should be the guiding criteria.

I need to head into town and start on some plumbing projects. But before I go, here is a for instance drawing. Note that this is just one possibility. The toilet has been moved to the tight sink location. The advantages are that a grab bar can be put on the wall to make it easier to get on and off of the toilet. The cold water plumbing is already there and it's not a big deal to move the toilet drain over a few feet. The sink area is now generous and allows easy access. There is an open shelving to the right to allow easy access. The shower area is generous and safe. A trench drain will prevent any water from going beyond this space.

Pardon me for jumping in late and I apologize if this was addressed later in the thread. For some reason, this thread is taking forever to load and I wanted to respond to this.

The toliet area in that plan does not allow sideways transfer, which may or may not be necessary depending on how well Goose can get in and out of the chair. I can't readily imagine a layout which would allow sideways transfer, but it is something to consider.

Also, I would stongly recommend ditching the old toliet and getting a 16" high "accessible" toliet; it makes a hugh difference for folks w/ disabilities.

I will post more later on what we went through getting the "cottage" ready for my FIL coming back from rehab in a wheelchair.

Peace,
- Sequoia
I don't want to change the location of any of the fixtures, as I agree it is important to be able to transfer on from sideways to at least some extent. Currently in the rehab, I approach the toilet chair sitting over the hopper such that the front corner of the chair is at approx right angles or a bit less to the toilet chair, and then slide board over the corner onto the chair, and back. Works pretty well, and I should be able to do the same thing with the current home layout.

As to changing the toilet, I don't want to be overly graphic, or get into "TMI" territory, but it it is critical that I have a space between my butt and the toilet, the higher than standard fixtures are exactly the OPPOSITE of what I need... One of the abilities I've lost is that of hoisting one "cheek" into the air, but the "bowel program" requires insertion of suppositories, manual stimulation, and other such tasks, as well as the usual "paperwork" tasks. I need a padded chair that gives me a gap over the hopper so that I can reach the critical area, with the opening to the rear (which causes it's own issues)

What is actually being suggested on one of the other forums that I'm on, which I need to check out further, is a rolling "shower chair" that according to the folks suggesting it, would allow me to transfer from the bed to the shower chair, roll over the toilet for bowel program, and then on into the shower, and then go back to bed in order to get dressed and transfer to the regular chair - if it will work, and allow access to the critical areas, it sounds like a pretty ideal solution as it would cut down on the number of transfers I'd need to make.

Gooserider
 
Hunderliggur said:
If the tub is cast iron you can break it apart with a sladge hammer.

It's fiberglass, far as I know... 1980's vintage one peice fixture, in avacado green, that combined tub and three sided shower stall. Aside from the color, and not having as many places to store "lotions & potions" as I'd like, it was a pretty nice unit.... Tim was asking me where I kept my Sawz-All this afternoon, so I suspect it is no longer a useable part of the house...

Gooserider
 
Well a great deal of progress has been made, it is still a challenge to get around, but the house is now much more accessible thanks to really fantastic efforts from Fbelec, Dune, Tim, and many others - the bathroom has been gutted, and most of the rework needed to get it roughed in for the tile guys to come in and do the tiling for the shower stall and fix the missing tiles where the old sink cabinet and closet were is done...

Most of the stuff for Mary-Anne's office has been moved upstairs into the master suite, and the bedroom stuff moved to her office, so at least I can move around a bit, and it looks like by the time I'm out of rehab they will be able to move me around inside the house, and I'll have a place to go potty and shower, and someplace to sleep...

Still need to work out a ramp, so that I can get in and out of the actual house, but...

Gooserider
 
How did office and bath doors work for you?
 
BeGreen said:
How did office and bath doors work for you?

The office door to Mary-Anne's office (now our bedroom) I can BARELY get through, I'm suggesting that we remove the door as a starter, and may need to work on opening up the wall and putting in a wider frame at some point in the future.

My office, we haven't even attempted yet, as it isn't critical to getting me into the house, and we had higher priorities this past weekend. However I beleive it's the same size as the door to the bedroom, so will need about the same treatment. In both cases it may be a challenge getting the doors wider as I don't know what kind of studs are under the existing frames and the hall itself is pretty tight.

The bathroom linen closet is history, which leaves a good bit of room, and that door frame has been ripped out. There is a new 36"W pre-hung door currently sitting in the garage waiting to be installed in the bathroom door opening.

Gooserider
 
Too bad about the sink being busted. Have to wonder if it was already busted when they put it on ebay.
 
Looks like te Lay-Z-Boy got a good workout!
 
Hunderliggur said:
Looks like te Lay-Z-Boy got a good workout!

Well the green one is a super cheapo bargain - happened to hit a sidewalk sale at one time when visiting a Wal Mart, and that was out there, we ended up getting it for $20 or $25, I forget which... Not the best chair, but for the price it works... The Tan one kind of hits the opposite extreme, as it is an extra heavy-duty model purchased after several normal recliners had died under Mary-Anne. What is amusing to see is the two recliners next to each other, as the tan one looks like twice the size of the green one....

As to the sink, Mary-Anne tells me that UPS came by today and picked it up, and will be getting the vendor to send her another one - so it sounds like there has been at least some sort of resolution, though it means that we don't know if we will actually have a sink in time or not.

Gooserider
 
Is this of any interest?
http://hudsonvalley.craigslist.org/for/1721667915.html
3m23p23o55O55U65X0a520b20ee0e8cbe1ad6.jpg

It is down here in the Hudson valley.
 
Nice looking chair, and not a bad deal for the right person I agree, though the ad seems like the person posting it doesn't know much about the chair (which isn't going to help them sell it IMHO)

However I am trying to stay in the world of manual chairs for now, at least... Though there is a certain appeal to the notion of having a "tractor" chair for outside use I will admit, I think if I want to go in that direction there appear to be a good many options available locally at similar prices. Thanks for keeping an eye out for me though...

Gooserider
 
Hey Goose is this of any interest?
http://newyork.craigslist.org/wch/for/1725625006.html
3n93k33m95O05T45P3a55fab9463370351bd1.jpg



"Over 50 feet modular steel wheelchair ramp system by American Ramp Systems.

With custom 5 foot platform and top and mid handrails on both sides.

In great condition.

**Pick up only. Buyer to disassemble and transport.**

Original purchase price - $8,000

Price Negotiable

Call Artie at 914-954-1330"

It can't be far from me.
 
Flatbedford said:
Hey Goose is this of any interest?
http://newyork.craigslist.org/wch/for/1725625006.html
3n93k33m95O05T45P3a55fab9463370351bd1.jpg


"Over 50 feet modular steel wheelchair ramp system by American Ramp Systems.

With custom 5 foot platform and top and mid handrails on both sides.

In great condition.

**Pick up only. Buyer to disassemble and transport.**

Original purchase price - $8,000

Price Negotiable

Call Artie at 914-954-1330"

It can't be far from me.

Might be of considerable interest, as we need about 60' worth and to go around at least one bend, so this would fit most of our needs - and I still need a ramp badly... Problem would be to get it from your area to where I live.

I'm sending a pointer to this message to Mary-Anne who is trying to make the arrangements for a ramp - which has to happen in the next few days as I'm getting kicked out of here next week...

Gooserider
 
If there are others from the lower Hudson Valley that could work with me I could help get it to you. I have trucks and access to trailers. I would need help and a week or two to get the parts up your way. Maybe somebody can move it quicker? I would try to help how ever I could for you. If you are interested, I can try to get a better look at it or pictures for you tomorrow.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.