Water additives, closed system

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emesine

Member
Apr 24, 2009
185
Indiana
We are within a few weeks of filling my system. My wood gun comes with two small bottles of boiler sealer/conditioner. We have copper pipe, a stainless steel boiler, TACO pumps, PEX tubing and a few brass fittings here and there. I don't have a water analysis for my water source.

What should I put in my water for conditioning. Should I just use what came with the boiler? Is there something better I should use?

As always, thanks in advance for all your help.

Andrew
 
Industry accepted best practice would the following.

Fill the system with a solution containing boiler cleaner, heat and circulate for a couple days.

Drain and flush with clean water, refill and bring back up to temp.

Draw a sample and send in to a lab for analysis.

Add appropriate treatment based on the lab results and recommendations.

I have to say that this the most commonly overlooked area of boiler installation and it can make a world of difference in the performance and the life of the system and the boiler. Martin Lunde told me of a situation where a new Garn was literally destroyed in a matter of less than a year by water that was highly "toxic" to the steel. There were pinholes showing up within 6 months that literally looked as if a person had taken a small drill bit and run it through the steel. The system fluid was found to contain a number of components that basically engaged in all out war with any ferrous material. The owner of the Garn had neglected to not only add the treatment that came with the unit but also to send his sample in for testing. All of which he had received with the Garn treatment program when he purchased it.

In another illustration of how important proper cleaning, treatment and ongoing monitoring can be, we had a sealed system containing copper, pex, some iron piping and steel panel rads fail in a near total manner just this winter. The whole system went in 6 years ago with a SS HX transferring heat from the OWB to the sealed side. We had a water to air HX in the plenum of the furnace, plus panel radiators for a few areas of the house and a sidearm type HX for the water heater.
The first thing that went was the side arm which totally plugged off on the system side, not the domestic side as is usually seen. The owner called and said the one of the steel panel rads had begun leaking. Within a matter of less than a month, all the panel rads had failed. Those were abandoned but within a month of the last one being taken out of use, first one, then another circ actually began spraying water out of the pump casting itself. When we replaced the circs, a close look at the impeller housing (cast iron) showed extensive pitting and perforation.

I had tested the system water after installation and initial cleaning and found the PH to be within what you would want to see for a sealed piping/boiler system. Obviously there was something going on there that a simple PH test did not reveal. That is why I strongly recommend getting at least a baseline check of the system fluid. You have too much invested to take a chance on a water test that may cost you $50 or so.
 
Thanks for the info, that sounds very reasonable. I have spent significant $$ on this system; I don't want to ruin it by missing one lousy detail.

What product would you recommend for the boiler cleaner?

Who would you recommend I send my water to for analysis?

Thanks!

Andrew
 
http://www.precisionchem.com/

This is the company that does the treatment program for Garn. I've spoken with Mike regarding various issues I have run into and he has a good grasp of what can and should be done. Very experienced with water treatment and products. Get in touch with them.
 
I know for a fact that your 2 bottles are Silver King Safe boiler stop leak that Alternate Heating pulled the labels off and put theirs on. That's all it is.
 
OK, so they use silver king. What would you recommend for a boiler cleanser? Thanks, I will look up that lab.

Andrew
 
Rhomar makes a boiler cleaner as well as a boiler conditioner. Anyone have any concerns using these two products?

Andrew
 
Rhomar makes good stuff also. I would still advise getting a test done with your water though. Lot's of companies make good generic or broad range additives but having an expert look at the actual fill water can reveal things that such a package may or may not address. There's a reason that when you buy the chemical treatment program (mandatory) with a Garn the price also includes testing with your water sample. It's just the best way to protect your investment.
 
Andrew,

I am also in the process of shortly filling my Wood Gun system and have many of the same questions. What are you using for water? Have you talked to Alternate Heat to see what they recommend?

My well water is hard to the tune of roughly 16 grams and has iron in the 4ppm range, would anyone care to comment on these numbers? I could also run the water through a the water softner, bad or good idea?
 
timberbuilt said:
Andrew,

I am also in the process of shortly filling my Wood Gun system and have many of the same questions. What are you using for water? Have you talked to Alternate Heat to see what they recommend?

My well water is hard to the tune of roughly 16 grams and has iron in the 4ppm range, would anyone care to comment on these numbers? I could also run the water through a the water softner, bad or good idea?

Is that 16 grams or grains? 1 gram = approx 15.4 grains. 16 grams would be about like liquid chalk coming out of your faucet. Both units are used. The iron is not exceptionally high but should be considered in the overall analysis.

If it is actually 16 grams you most definitely should use softened water or better yet deionized water which can be had from a local water company for a pretty reasonable price. Care should be taken with the softened water as it can become aggressive under certain circumstances. I know Garn usually doesn't recommend over a 50-50 mix of softened and untreated water unless there is something really wrong with the tap water.
 
Really the best water would be distilled water, but getting that much be the problem.
 
how about rainwater?
 
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