Outside Air Kit to control humidity

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MyFyrByrd

New Member
Oct 17, 2008
83
Northeastern, Ohio
I was wondering if an outside air kit would aid in keeping the room with my stove more humid. The two RH meters I am using indicate between 19% and 26% when the sotve is in use. This has caused me to have terrible sinus problems when the stove is in use. The room with the stove is used more ofter than any other in the house. I have tried 3 steamers on the stove and a few small humidifiers in the room. These only raised the humidity to 27% to 29%. Still way to low.
On another of my threads ,Sixman posted an interesting comment "The outside air kit should stop the stove from pulling in dry air from outside and then your humidifier can add moisture to your room."
Can anyone here who has an outside air kit confirm that adding one will make a HUGE difference in humidity levels?
 
In my climate the OAK has made the difference between frosted windows and door seals and not. No more frost at the windows and doors for me. The humidifier cycles cycles alot less now along with our electrical meter. Our outside humidity can drop down as low as 18% though. It is also not a guess now where our -30 to -50 air is coming in the house now. No cold drafts at the exterior near the movable openings.
 
North of 60, Have you had sinus problems before adding the OAK? If so, was the OAK a remedy? Sure sounds like it would help considering that you humidifier doesn't kick on as much.
 
north of 60 said:
In my climate the OAK has made the difference between frosted windows and door seals and not. No more frost at the windows and doors for me. The humidifier cycles cycles alot less now along with our electrical meter. Our outside humidity can drop down as low as 18% though. It is also not a guess now where our -30 to -50 air is coming in the house now. No cold drafts at the exterior near the movable openings.

Sounds like the house has a bad infiltration problem? If so, wouldn't sealing of the leakage be more effective?
 
Maintaining an even relative humidity throughout the the house in the extremities are easier. If I don't humidify it will be noes bleeds for sure after a nights sleep. The cat is much happier for sure. ;-)
 
BeGreen said:
north of 60 said:
In my climate the OAK has made the difference between frosted windows and door seals and not. No more frost at the windows and doors for me. The humidifier cycles cycles alot less now along with our electrical meter. Our outside humidity can drop down as low as 18% though. It is also not a guess now where our -30 to -50 air is coming in the house now. No cold drafts at the exterior near the movable openings.

Sounds like the house has a bad infiltration problem? If so, wouldn't sealing of the leakage be more effective?

Come and spend a winter here. Triple pane 8" walls and 2" strapped blue SM. All sealed tight. Windows and doors will still have a week spot. Ball valves on boiler drains will freeze at the base of an operating 190F boiler if your combustion air isn't designed right. -40 and -50 C or F takes no prisoners. Oil lines will frost up inside a warm building... etc..... I got your angle though BeGreen. Again, come spent a winter.

EDIT: Our temps this AM are your Winter. I dont have a fire or the furnace running as it was a 15C high yeasterday. 21C in the house right now.
 
north of 60 said:
BeGreen said:
north of 60 said:
In my climate the OAK has made the difference between frosted windows and door seals and not. No more frost at the windows and doors for me. The humidifier cycles cycles alot less now along with our electrical meter. Our outside humidity can drop down as low as 18% though. It is also not a guess now where our -30 to -50 air is coming in the house now. No cold drafts at the exterior near the movable openings.

Sounds like the house has a bad infiltration problem? If so, wouldn't sealing of the leakage be more effective?

Come and spend a winter here. Triple pane 8" walls and 2" strapped blue SM. All sealed tight. Windows and doors will still have a week spot. Ball valves on boiler drains will freeze at the base of an operating 190F boiler if your combustion air isn't designed right. -40 and -50 C or F takes no prisoners. Oil lines will frost up inside a warm building... etc..... I got your angle though BeGreen. Again, come spent a winter.

I hear ya North. I'd love to visit when the Northern Lights are glowing, though I'd probably freeze solid the moment I stepped off the plane (or is that dogsled? :) ). This is an extreme condition. I am curious whether this relevant to the relatively more temperate needs of Ohio? The point seems well taken that the less infiltration, the more control over the interior environment. But I wonder how much so.
 
I have no personal experience with the use of an OAK, but I have wondered about the same issue. My feeling is that natural air infiltration in most houses is so great that I don't see how installing an OAK would make much of a difference. If the absolute moisture content of the outside air is low (extremely cold weather), that air will plummet in relative humidity when it seeps into your house and gets heated up.

An exception might be in one of those super airtight houses. Those homes are very efficient to heat, but they are prone to developing "sick house syndrome". If you have excellent draft without having to open a window, chances are you don't live in one of those. Can the OAK make the situation a little better? Maybe, but I wouldn't predict a huge difference in most homes. Best bet is a whole house humidifier of the proper capacity.
 
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