New house, new install

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cdodge04

Member
Oct 7, 2008
178
Belfast, Maine
I made the leap and purchased my first home...I decided that I would rather pay my mortgage then help pay somebody elses...

Now in my new home there is really only one place to set up my pellet stove because of the setup of the building...I attached a couple photos to show my install location...but have a few questions...Now obviously the cat tree and curtains would be moved/changed...

1. Will the baseboard heaters be an issue?

2. Will I have enough clearence to my windows do you guys think? The wall with the picture on it is 46 inches from the corner to the outer edge of the window trim and 49.5 inches to the inside of the trim, the other wall is 26.5 inches from corner to edge of window sill and 30 inches from corner to the inside edge of the window...I will be using an OAK...which I believe makes it so that the exhaust has to be 18 inches from a functioning window...correct? with the measurements I would think that I will have more than enough clearence on either side of the exhaustto meet the requirements...

The distances on the inside should also not be an issue as I will have plenty of space to meet the required distances...

The only thing I haven't yet decided is if I will install my PDV or my PDVC...I was lucky enough to pick up the smaller one over the summer with the vent pipe for $500...quite a steal if you ask me...especially considering that the little guy had only had a couple of bags of pellets burned through it!
 

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Here you go. Go to page 8 and F & B are your dimensions. Don't forget your stove to wall clearance that will dictate were your vent will lie. 8" wall + 12" clearance + 15" to center of stove (just a guess) + 18" clearance to window = 53". I'm just guessing at some dimensions but looks like it won't work or it's going to be tight. Then there's always going up.

Is there a CEO in Belfast. He might have an issue with it being that tight of a fit.
 
are you going to go out through the left wall of the picture or the right??

exhaust is to the left (standing in front) but either can be done. you are correct the new 2010 NFPA211 allows closer clearance but our manuals arent yet caught up to the new standard (working on it) anyway, if you vent to the left i'd recommend going above the top of the window as there is little room between the corner and the wall, the right side has more leeway.


BTW , thanks for choosing my product!!!!!
 
Thanks for the input guys...

Mike- I'm going through the wall with the picture on it...I did some rough numbers and I think that I have the space...all the clearances seem to be there...I figure the only clearances I really need to worry about are for the exhaust pipe...as long as I can make the 18 inches from the window and still have enough space between the corner of the wall and where the pipe ends up....it should be ok...for inside clearances I can build a brick hearth or something similar...

From what I have gathered so fire department and my insurance both just want to see minimum clearances met as set forth by manufacturer...


-Chad
 
Same here in my town. CEO just wanted to see a install to manufactures specs. In South Berwick the CEO is the assistant fire chief. Great guy as long as you don't try to pull the wool over his eye's.
 
CDodge04 said:
...From what I have gathered so fire department and my insurance both just want to see minimum clearances met as set forth by manufacturer...-Chad

In my town, the inspector just needed a copy of the page from the stove manufacturers manual showing the type of install I was doing. As long as it met the manual specs, he said I was good to go.
 
My stoves paper work all say 4 foot from the exhaust termination to the opening of any window, air vnet or air intake.

The interior clearance to the baseboard heaters should not be an issue as long as you maintain the required clearance to combustibles.

You should be fine with sliding the floor protector up to the baseboard heaters.

I would run this stuff by the inspector first before chopping a hole in the wall for the vent though.

I have one stove that was a tad shy of the 4 foot clearance to the window so I permanently installed a block in the window track so the window, if opened, is over the required 4 foot minimum.

Inspector was cool with that fix.

There is usually a way to make most any install location work if you get creative.

As long as its safe, thats the biggy.

Sometimes, houses are simply not designed with stoves in mind, so you have to get really inventive to make stuff work right.


Snowy
 
Hey guys,
Sorry to kick up my old thread, but I finally had some time to move my hearth and stove into place. I know some of you were saying that you didn't think that the space where I wanted to install would work out...but Mike and I seem to think it will! What better way to find out then to get the stove put into place and take some measurements, right?

So here it is, the stove is in place, and as far as I can tell I'm meeting all my requirements per the manual. The floor protection is better than the 6 inches required in front, as well as the 4 inches to either side and 1 inch in the rear. I plan to run the vent pipe out the wall that is 49.5 inches wide, and I plan to do it right out the wall with no rise. When in place the exhaust pipe will be about 4 feet up, so that should be plenty for keeping the snow away from it. The roof is not angled down on that side so there will be no falling snow to land on it/around it. I know in the manual it is recommened that a 3 foot rise be in place...but in order to do that I would end up with the 45 degree angle off the stove, then a 90 degree angle up(clean out tee) and another 90 degree angle where the exhaust cap is...which according to the manual is a no-no. I have limited time so figured that way would be easier than trying to get to Home Depot to buy another 45 degree pipe. Anyone have any input on that? Mike?

The six inches of clearance required on the sides and rear is also there...its actually closer to 9 inches on the sides and rear...even though it doesnt look like it because of the angle of the picture. Where the pipe goes through the wall, I have more than 3 inches of clearance to the wall. Putting the vent pipe out the wall where I am, keeps it about 35-40 inches from the window on the wall that the pipe is exiting. The window that is on the left side of the stove vent will also be in that same range in distance.

I'm trying to get a hold of the Fire Chief to have him come and OK the install before I cut any holes so that way I don't have any surprises...

Anyone see anything that I'm forgetting? Trying to cover all my bases and get this beast installed!
 

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Hello

I would like to make a suggestion on your baseboard heat. If a hearth pad or anything is added to the floor next to the baseboard it will block the air flow to the baseboard and make it very inefficient in that area. To resolve this issue I designed a raised hearth that incorporated a hydronic kickspace heater. Then I removed the fins and wrapped the baseboard pipe in pipe insulation from home depot.

This makes the baseboard much more efficient when it is in use!
I was too quick to rule out oil as not being cheaper but i just got a new boiler system that uses less than half the oil my 22 year old valliant did, so I am not going to quit oil consumption just yet! I am going to be able to select which is cheaper!

Just my 2 cents. See pics below!
The ball valve shutoffs and curled heater hose allows the heater to be pulled out and shut down for easy servicing!
 

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Don222,

I had seen other pictures of your install and wondered how you did the kick space heater. Thanks for these pictures.

That is really a smart solution to losing baseboard area. Great idea and nice install!

By the way, had a Buderus G115/4 section cast iron boiler ( like yours ) and Buderus super insulated domestic hot water tank installed last December 7th. Cannot believe how efficient that unit is, and how great the hot water is especially compared to the former 39 year old cast iron ( non triple pass!! ) boiler with a heating coil inside for DHW. Buderus and zero start rules! My wood boiler ties in which is great in the winter months.

Regards,

Ranger
 
Hello

Thanks Ranger.

I was using 421 gallons a year just for hot water. The new Buderus should reduce that a bit! The heat loop on the Superstor DHW output and the DHW Expansion tank on the Superstor cold water intake also save alot more oil for heating hot water!!

Since the Wood pellet stove and Boiler are close together, after installing an OAK on the Pellet Stove, I installed an OAK on the new Boiler. So now those 2 are not like underwater divers fighting for the same air hose!! LOL
There is No Warm Room Air going up either chimney!!

See Boiler OAK pics here.
https://www.hearth.com/econtent/index.php/forums/viewthread/58957/

The best advantage of both of these heating sytems is the fact that I can now buy all the winter's heat, Wood Pellets and Oil in the summer when the prices are low. So that is a definite Good Bye to high winter fuel prices!!

So we can now be Cheap Heat Hogs LOL
 
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