Garage Door Install, any help?

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SKIN052

SKIN052

Minister of Fire
Nov 12, 2008
798
Appleton, Newfoundland
Got so much help about the stove, lets try this little problem.

I just managed to raise the walls and get a roof on a 16 x 24 garage this weekend. Attempted to install the door, an 8 x 7 Laforge Advance. Got panels together and tracks in place, after much pain and suffering I might add, instructions were terrible. I know installing the spring is dangerous yet I am confident that I can handle the task. The part that has me stumped is that after installing the wire to the rollers and i tension the spring, the cables just hop of the spool when I go to lift the door, what am I doing wrong? I have the red spool on the left and the black spool on the right. The set screws are facing the center of the door. Any help would be appreciated.
 
SKIN052 said:
Got so much help about the stove, lets try this little problem.

I just managed to raise the walls and get a roof on a 16 x 24 garage this weekend. Attempted to install the door, an 8 x 7 Laforge Advance. Got panels together and tracks in place, after much pain and suffering I might add, instructions were terrible. I know installing the spring is dangerous yet I am confident that I can handle the task. The part that has me stumped is that after installing the wire to the rollers and i tension the spring, the cables just hop of the spool when I go to lift the door, what am I doing wrong? I have the red spool on the left and the black spool on the right. The set screws are facing the center of the door. Any help would be appreciated.
Click to expand...

I've installed a couple of doors & replaced springs on others as well, but you've lost me...

I think you're gonna need to post some pix or a diagram of what you're up against.
 
I thighten the spring but when I go to lift the door the cable just jumps off the roller, suspect I do not have enough tension on the spring. How do I measure how many turn of the spring? I made a mark on the roller and counted it every time that hole went past. Maybe I should have marked the spring.
 
I guess you are talking about the new kind of springs and not the old exposed springs?!?

You are correct - not enough tension on them. I think you need to know how many wraps of cable will go on the pulley and then you need to be sure that you crank the spring that much. You can always just adjust it as you go. Put another turn on it and give it another try. By the time you are finished, you will be a pro.
 
When I built my new garage at my previous house in '99, I bought one of the new type springs at Menards, where I bought the garage kit. It had a stripe painted straight across the front, and the instructions told me how many 'hash marks' the line would turn in to when I screwed the adjustment with a reversible drill. The wider the door, the more hash marks there would be. If I ever buy another door spring like that style, I want to get the same brand. That made it a piece of cake to adjust. If you ever have to work on the door, use the reversible drill to unwind the spring until it's a solid straight line again. Much safer than the rod method of adjustment.
 
There should be enough tension to almost carry the weight of the door. You should be able to lift the door with one hand. If there is slack in the cable when the door is lifted, there obviously is not enough tension.
 
Well the door is good to go, spring was installed on the wrong side of the center support. Nice door, horrible instructions. I e-mail the company and said the same to them.

Now on to SHINGLES!!!! Any help?
 
SKIN052 said:
Now on to SHINGLES!!!! Any help?
Click to expand...
Just start at the bottom and work your way up.
 
LLigetfa said:
SKIN052 said:
Now on to SHINGLES!!!! Any help?
Click to expand...
Just start at the bottom and work your way up.
Click to expand...

And a starter course at the bottom to fill in under the tabs.
 
I have seen some people lay a starter course the whole perimeter of the roof line, any need for this?
 
had mine done 2 years ago and the fella was quite adamant about venting.

DSC06833.jpg


and pretty hard to believe the heat that comes out of these 'whirlybirds'

DSC04136.jpg
 
I will be doing the work myself, old fashioned hammer and nail method. I will vent the Gable ends and install soffit on the rake.
 
use the proper length nails, and use the proper amount per shingle, in the correct places, or the wind will rip em off that much faster! and depending on wheter you have ice daming problems in your area, some people use a taller flashing and heaveir bond paper around the perimeter. sucks to do a roof job just to have melting ice rot your plywood out!
 
For future reference to anyone the color red means right hand spring and black is always left from outside looking in
 
spadafore said:
For future reference to anyone the color red means right hand spring and black is always left from outside looking in
Click to expand...
You Sir are correct. The Pully Drums are painted Red and Black, as per the manuel, Black goes on the Right and Red goes on the left as seen from inside the Garage. My issue is the fact that the spring itself had to face the Black pully not the Red. I was seeing red for a while.
 
LLigetfa said:
SKIN052 said:
Now on to SHINGLES!!!! Any help?
Click to expand...
Just start at the bottom and work your way up.
Click to expand...

Funny stuff. Gotta' be SOMEONE, SOMEWHERE, who started on top and worked down.
The guys who did the house for me a couple years ago, tore off the old shingles only to find some funky green sheets of tiny pebble impregnated asphalt that was laid from eave to peak in one strip, with the next sheet to the right with a slight overlap. I've never seen that before.
 
It's called rolled roofing, cheap way to roof a place like a hunting camp or wood shed. Won't last nearly as long as shingles though. I am just waiting for the rain to hold up to get at my place.
 
SKIN052 said:
I have seen some people lay a starter course the whole perimeter of the roof line, any need for this?
Click to expand...

Depends on your location. Defiantly need it at the eaves. Only on the rake in hurricane or high wind areas.
 
I'm a roofer and the best advice I can give is to read the instructions on the package of shingles, and follow them. I also ALL-WAYS use #30 felt paper or synthetic and fasten it with cap nails often so the wind wont blow
it off if a storm pops up before you get done! The #15 is just to easy to tear out from under you while walking on it or in wind.
 
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