I have an 08 Mt. Vernon AE was attempting to remove fire pot and have found right side bolt is seized (side with thermo coupler). Anyone have any ideas, I have tried spraying with liquid wrench for several days, and also tried heating bolt to no avail. Bolt head does turn ever so slightly while bottom of bolt doesnt move. I am trying to avoid snapping bolt head. Any help or advice would be appreciated.
Mt Vernon AE seized bolt
- Thread starter pelletkrzd
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pelletkrzd said:
Don't heat the bolt...that will cause it to expand & become even tighter in the threads. Try heating just the area around the bolt with a propane torch so the metal expands.
And believe it or not, it sometimes helps to initially try tightening the bolt a little before trying to loosen it.
Hope this helps.
EDIT: If and when you DO get the bolts out, clean the threads with a wire brush real well, and get a tube of Anti-seize (AKA never-seize) at the auto parts store and apply a thin coat to them before re-installing.....should make it much easier to remove next time.
slls
Minister of Fire
Bolts with nuts too hard to remove I like to break them, easier.
It's a common bolt and nut you can buy in any hardware store.
It's a common bolt and nut you can buy in any hardware store.
slls said:
Sils, are you sure it's a "bolt w/ nut" situation for this firepot? Could be a bolt threaded into a nut that's permanently welded in place, or one that threads into a solid piece of metal underneath w/o a nut?
imacman said:
it is a nut that threads into solid piece, trying not to break the nut will be more difficult to get out. Anybody ever have any luck with bolt extractor kit?
ship_reck
Member
i've had great luck with PB blaster, much better than any other penetrating lubricant. it's available most everywhere. and tapping on the bolt/nut with a hammer sometimes helps to break the bolt loose.
mainegeek
Member
A bolt extractor may not work if the bolt is frozen. Those are usually used on stripped bolts. Try to work it loose the best you can (tapping on it). Also, try some different brands of penetrating oil. I've also had good luck with PB. Saturate it REALLY good. Worst case scenario you may be stuck drilling (and possibly tapping).
smwilliamson
The Stove Guy
Thanks for your replies bolt head had enough and finally snapped off. Luckily only bolt head snapped off. I think there is enough remaining 1/2" or so protruding from top that I can grap with channel locks or vise grips to work out what is remaining. Bolt threads are soaking in heavy coat of penetrating oil now. THANKS AGAIN.
mainegeek
Member
Yes, Marvels works very good as well. My father was able to get a seized 1958 Austin Healey motor going again by adding a cap full of Marvels to spark plug chamber, letting it sit a day, and then manually cranked the motor a bit. He had to repeat this MANY times over the course of a few weeks but it finally completely unseized and he was able to avoid a motor rebuild.... the stuff is amazing!
He sold the car last spring and the motor was original and didn't require a rebuild....
He sold the car last spring and the motor was original and didn't require a rebuild....
slls
Minister of Fire
imacman said:
No, I didn't know, I looked at mine this morning out of curiosity. My 1200 has welded nuts easily accessible. Why welded nuts I have no idea, mine would end up with plain nuts. Drill it out so the bolt would go right through. Welded nuts are suppose to be for hard to get places, this is not one. Not sure the AE setup, should be the same.
Problem fixed thanks again to everyone. There was enough left of the snapped bolt to put some vise grips on and eventually work out. Does seem like a bad design, the through bolt with a nut would seem like a better choice for securing the fire pot. After a good scrub and some fresh paint in side the firebox, some anti seize is going to be applied to the new bolts.
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