Yeah, it's copper. I think I paid about $35 for the copper. I was lucky enough to have access to bending equipment so I could make it myself. The finish I achieved by spraying liver of sulfur on it several times and buffing it off with steel wool.Den said:
Formal living room stove pics?
- Thread starter emt1581
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north of 60 said:
I think that's overstating it just a little. I started harvesting in the middle of the summer last year, and while I know I didn't get anywhere near full performance from my stove, I still saved about $800 over the course of the winter and really enjoyed my stove. I was lucky to have access to lot of black locust, which has very low initial moisture content. If you can find some of the faster drying woods and get them stacked in the sun right away, I think it would still be worth while. You do need to wait longer to engage the cat on a cat stove, and you will see more creosote that you would with fully seasoned wood, but mine really didn't get that bad. I cleaned the lower end once in late January, and I was fine.
emt1581 said:
Thanks. I built the pad using (carefully selected) slate tile from Home Depot. I took pictures of the entire process if you're interested.
dreezon said:
Oh I'd love to see pics!!
Home Depot really?? I thought you had to order special "rated" stuff.
Thanks!
-Emt1581
BrotherBart said:
Check my first thread page two I believe. Of course that's before 1960's furniture removal, paint, and refinished floors...but the corner where the yellow chair is will be the spot.
-Emt1581
North of 60
Minister of Fire
dreezon said:
If it is fresh cut a month from now or being split a month from now or even cut now and you are PAYING for it. You aint saving! Burn it next year. Nothing like running with the by-pass open to burn your wood. Kinda defeats the purpose. Its like driving around with a hole in your fuel tank.
Just my opinion I guess.
north of 60 said:
+1 to the third power.
The power would have to be out before I would even think about burning wood cut this year. Did that too many years and could not believe the difference after I started burning good dry wood.
But that living room ain't gonna be heated with wood this year anyway. So he needs to go ahead and get the wood laid in for next year.
BrotherBart said:
I do have a pile of split pallets that has been baking in my shed for the past two years. I use it in my fire-pit outside...but I'm guessing there's a reason I shouldn't even think of using it in my stove.
-Emt1581
emt1581 said:
I don't think the pile of split pallets in your shed is going to get you very far!
If you're buying next month that only gives your wood August and September. 2 months with even the lowest m/c wood isn't going to do you much good. Your best shot is finding Black Locust or White Ash that the seller "claims" is seasoned. Most first year burners don't end up with the best wood to burn.
If you're serious about doing this get wood for this season and next. Knowing I can heat this joint for the next 3 years no matter what is a great feeling.
emt1581 said:
Here you can see the cardboard template I used. That helped tremendously in getting the plywood based and then the other two layers to fit the fireplace surround exactly. I was able to trace the template onto the the plywood before making the cut. The little wedge pieces around the edge in the picture with the cement board provided a base to attach the crown-moulding-type trim to. According to Woodstock, all you need is at least a half inch of cement board and a quarter inch of non combustible (stone or ceramic tile) finish material. I think you also need to use thinset mortar rather than mastic to affix the tiles.
Attachments
Thanks for those pics. I could do that I know I could. That trim, you get it finished just like that at HD?
Thanks!
-Emt1581
Thanks!
-Emt1581
firefighterjake
Minister of Fire
emt1581 said:
HehHeh . . . I thought some of the prettier cast iron and soapstone models would rock your world . . . they really can and do look sharp . . . and more important perhaps while they look good they actually can keep you warm.
I'm guessing my living room isn't as formal . . . I have since added wood trim to my hearth pad and replaced the window near the stove.
https://www.hearth.com/econtent/ind...16271_manEnzvm1u40X2NhpDBF&thumb=1&board_id=1
Building a hearth . . . save your money. Yes . . . you can build one that is as good looking, if not better . . . and you can customize its size, shape and R-value to your own needs . . . since the hearth really depends on what you have for a stove (i.e. larger stoves generally need larger hearths and some stoves only require ember protection whereas some stoves require significant R-value protection.)
firefighterjake
Minister of Fire
emt1581 said:
A lot of the soapstone users here love the stone for that very reason . . . long radiating heat.
As for cleaning out . . . I have an ash pan and find it quite convenient to clean out the ashes . . . but truthfully folks here either tend to love or hate the ash pan . . . a lot seems to depend on whether they have always used an ash pan or not . . . and whether their stove ash pan is large and works well . . . or if it is small and doesn't do a good job in terms of clean up.
firefighterjake
Minister of Fire
emt1581 said:
Unless they've been painted, coated with grease or other chemicals or treated with some funky chemicals I can't think of any reason to not burn pallets . . . great firestarters and the thicker pieces burn pretty decently.
Only a few negatives . . . 1) they can burn up quickly . . . always quicker than normal cord wood, 2) they're a royal pain in the butt to cut up and 3) you'll have to contend with nails in the ash so you don't want to spread the ash in your driveway.
firefighterjake said:
What's that pot on top, steam or potpourri?
In terms of building a hearth is it always a similar process (template, plywood, durrock, tile/etc., wood trim)?? Or will other materials be called for sometimes?
Thanks!
-Emt1581
firefighterjake said:
I took all the nails out of mine...was it a royal PITA?...yes it was!
I was just messing around about the pallets though. I only have enough for maybe a few days of burning just the pallets.
Thanks!
-Emt1581
CarbonNeutral said:
I saw yesterday at the stove shop that we can run the pipe straight back, like you did. This would be the ideal route we'd want to take because instead of having a large pipe (blended with paint or not), it would be hidden. However the guy at the store said to think it through before we do it because once you put the opening at a particular stove height, you can't use the same opening for a larger (higher) stove. We'd have to knock through the wall and re-do the opening since the stove-pipe can't go down.
Have you experienced any down-sides to having the pipe go straight back as opposed to up and out?
Thanks!!
-Emt1581
firefighterjake
Minister of Fire
firefighterjake
Minister of Fire
emt1581 said:firefighterjake said:
I took all the nails out of mine...was it a royal PITA?...yes it was!
I was just messing around about the pallets though. I only have enough for maybe a few days of burning just the pallets.
Thanks!
-Emt1581
I started to yank out all the nails . . . and then just fired up the saw . . . I don't use a lot of pallets now, but in the first year they worked pretty well for starting the fire, getting things up to temp and the nice, oak ones burned pretty well . . . just didn't look as pretty as a stove full of maple burning with a load of white birch sitting in a pretty LL Bean wood holder nearby.
Oh pallets can have their place . . . as mentioned they are pretty good for getting a fire up to temp . . . but too much work for me to fuss with as a regular supply of woodstove fuel.
I wanted to comment on Carbon Neutral's handsome installation. I have always liked the Jotuls, and the ivory enamel is my favorite finish. Your clean, graciously proportioned hearth in front of the massive brick backdrop shows the stove off to wonderful advantage. Oftentimes the hearth and background are so close in color to the stove in question that they tend to get sort of lost in the setting or look sort of crammed into the designated space. This is not the case with your stove. I remember that picture from a few months ago and it was nice to see it again. Did you do the installation yourself?
I started to yank out all the nails . . . and then just fired up the saw . . . I don't use a lot of pallets now, but in the first year they worked pretty well for starting the fire, getting things up to temp and the nice, oak ones burned pretty well . . . just didn't look as pretty as a stove full of maple burning with a load of white birch sitting in a pretty LL Bean wood holder nearby.
Oh pallets can have their place . . . as mentioned they are pretty good for getting a fire up to temp . . . but too much work for me to fuss with as a regular supply of woodstove fuel.
Honestly, I was just bored one weekend so I sat out back with my Glock knife and sledge and broke a few pallets down into 10" sticks. It's PERFECT material for a firepit, especially since I sprinkle it with citronella oil a few days before each fire. I wouldn't do that if using it in a stove though.
-Emt1581
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