I had posted a while ago about a sticking handle (to clean the heat exchangers) on my EKO 40 super. I'm finally on vacation, and I pulled of the back panel of the boiler with the intent to clean the HE by hand, but I've run into a problem. Behind the back panel, the steel is welded to the boiler. There is no way to get to the tubulators that I can see, because it appears the firebox and tubulators are both encased in a single box. Any ideas?
Cleaning the EKO 40 Super
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You don't need to take off the back. Just remove all the screws from the side with the handle and pry off the side skin. Then pry off the back section of the top cover. You will see the top plate of the HX cover. Remove the two nuts that hold the HX cover and remove. You will need tro remove the handle as well. I remove the turbulators and clean each cylinder with an appropiatly sized washer attached to a long threaded rod. Hope this helps.
Don
Don
Medman
Feeling the Heat
If the 40 is like the 25, you remove the top cover at the back. It is held in place by friction fittings and just pops off. Under the cover is a lid held on by wing nuts. Under the lid you will find the top of the HX tubes and turbulators. The turbs are attached to the cleaning rod. Once they are undone, the slide out vertically and you are free to brush out the tubes.
Thanks for the replies guys. I have the top off now, and it is filthy in there. I'm not sure I can see how I could get tools down there to unhook the turbs. I'm thinking of getting a long rod to bust up the bigger pieces of creosote until they can fall down into the secondary combustion chamber.
I can see where the turbulators are connected the pipe that the cleaning arm is attached to, but how do I get that out of there? I can slide it back and forth a bit, but not enough to get it off where the handle is. I've tried just pulling the thing out from the side, but it stops dead before it can slide out enough to get it off.
Once the cleaning arm has been removed, the rod that pivots the turbulators needs to be removed. To do that remove the two bolts that mount it to the side of the boiler. Then you can slide the rod out. You should be able to lift the set of turbulators out by lifting straight up. There might be some binding if the cylinders are built up heavily. If memory serves me right I think there are a couple of cotter pins that must be removed as well. Sorry if this is a bit confusing as I an trying to remember what all is required. Others can chime in if thier recollection is better than mine.
Thanks for the info. I got the arm out and I've been working on bringing out the turbulators, but they're stuck in there pretty good. I've spent about 5 hours working various rods up and down to release ash and big chunks of creosote. The holes look unobstructed now, but I still can't remove the turbulators or use the lever (I've reattached it at different times throughout the process) to move it to the fullest extent.
Correct me if I'm wrong, but that lever should move the turbulators up to the point where you can't see them in the secondary combustion chamber anymore, right?
I'm considering putting the whole thing back together and firing it up with a creosote burning log/additive, etc. and then checking it out again. What do you guys think?
Again, thanks for the all the help.
Correct me if I'm wrong, but that lever should move the turbulators up to the point where you can't see them in the secondary combustion chamber anymore, right?
I'm considering putting the whole thing back together and firing it up with a creosote burning log/additive, etc. and then checking it out again. What do you guys think?
Again, thanks for the all the help.
The first time you do this is the most difficult. Next time it will be much easier, especially if you do it on a regular yearly basis.
If you are having difficulty pulling the turbulators out as a single unit, disconnect them and try removing them one at a time. You are correct, the leaver should move the turbulators up so you can't see them from the secondary chamber.
Getting those tubes clean is very important if you want good efficiency from your boiler.
If you are having difficulty pulling the turbulators out as a single unit, disconnect them and try removing them one at a time. You are correct, the leaver should move the turbulators up so you can't see them from the secondary chamber.
Getting those tubes clean is very important if you want good efficiency from your boiler.
Have any of you used one of those chemicals that is supposed to get rid of creosote build up? If so how well did it work?
Last year I had the same problem in my boiler, due to finishing out the Spring with wood that wasn't seasoned well enough. After trying a number of other things, I ended up being successful with an ash/water mix. If you are interested in considering that, let me know and I will PM a copy of the procedure that I used (it's long with lots of boring details %-P )
Please send me the details. It can't be any longer to read than what I've been doing to get these things free. 
How often do you have to clean the tubulators? I never did this with my eko 25. I thought you cleaned the tubulators by pulling the lever on the super back and forth a few times a day. I have about 4 cords through my 25 and the temps are 500* in my flue 6" away from the stove.
mr.fixit
Feeling the Heat
I take the turbs out and clean the HX tubes at the beginning of the season and then again midway through the season.I dont idle much so there's not much in there but a layer of ash where the turbulators dont hit.Stack temps are a good indicator after you have a idea of what they are aftercleaning.
I thought I only had to move the lever too... until it stopped moving all the way up. My lever got stuck with less than half movement, and then I didn't get nearly enough heat exchanged from the fire to the water.
I had the problem about halfway through my second burning season. I was never able to remove the turbulators. I did get them clean enough to move the lever all the way again. I used a combination of "soot sticks" and "Anti-creoSoot spray."
I would spray 60 times in each tube from above in the back (where the top comes off) then I would fire up the boiler and slowly work the lever up where the blockage was incrementally.
The problem was caused, I think, by wood that wasn't seasoned enough. I got a wood moisture meter to prevent that in the future.
This was the worst problem I've had with my EKO, and it was basically my fault anyway. I would advise to always check the moisture level of your wood, and keep some anti creosote spray handy for the burning season. with a thorough cleaning at the end of the season.
I had the problem about halfway through my second burning season. I was never able to remove the turbulators. I did get them clean enough to move the lever all the way again. I used a combination of "soot sticks" and "Anti-creoSoot spray."
I would spray 60 times in each tube from above in the back (where the top comes off) then I would fire up the boiler and slowly work the lever up where the blockage was incrementally.
The problem was caused, I think, by wood that wasn't seasoned enough. I got a wood moisture meter to prevent that in the future.
This was the worst problem I've had with my EKO, and it was basically my fault anyway. I would advise to always check the moisture level of your wood, and keep some anti creosote spray handy for the burning season. with a thorough cleaning at the end of the season.
I have the 25 super. I took off the back of the top and saw two bolts holding on a piece of metal. If I take off the piece of metal by removing the nuts will I be able to see down the hx tubes and turbulators? I'm asking cause just my luck I would screw up my eko till spring.
Dave T
New Member
The piece you remove to get to the heat exchangers is gasketed, like the door gasket. Look at my pic, the exchanger access can be seen just behind the water outlet on top of the EKO. Ten nuts on studs holds the gasket seated ( the access pannel has 2 handles). Keep in mind my boiler is an Orlan EKO 60 standard. This is what I see when I look through my chimney outlet
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Well thanks taco steeler man, but what is the truck pulling? Is that what you need to pull the hx tubes out if ya don't clean it out enough?
Dave T
New Member
To get the turbs out of my EKO40Super I had to hook on to each stuck turb with with an improvised 1/4" bolt I heated and bent to make a hook and then grabbed the hook with vise grips. I tapped upward on the visegrips and basically unscrewed each stuck turb (2 had come completely of the cleaning armature and dropped down into the tub. EKO has used several methods of connecting the turbs to the armature and in designing the turbs themselves). I welded a large and thick flat washer to a piece of 1/4" rod and mad a rounded "wood bit" to go down the tubes. In my cordless drill the home made tool only took seconds to clean each tube. The turbs took a little longer with a wire brush in my electric drill. My turbs were connected to the armature with clevis and cotter pins.
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