I just purchased the Englander 50/13 series stove for my cabin in upstate NY. The building is a 24x20 with a loft of the same size. My ceiling on the first floor is also the floor for the second story loft made of knotty pine. My question is should I run the pipe straight up through the first story ceiling/floor then through the loft and then finally through the roof? Alternatively, I could run my pipe straight out and run the chimney entirely along the outside of the camp. Cost is also an issue. Thanks
Stove Pipe Question
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cmonSTART
Minister of Fire
Well, the best option is always straight up. Cost wise I'm guessing it's going to be pretty even either way but an interior chimney will probably be a bit more effort installation-wise. An interior chimney will perform better!
firefighterjake
Minister of Fire
If I had the option and could do it easily enough I would go straight up . . . better for establishing a draft and you get the benefit of getting more heat off the chimney pipe and chimney. The drawback is you will have to cut through the floor, ceiling and roof and enclose the pipe when it enters a living space.
I ended up going with an out and up option . . . namely because of the way the hammerheads built my house (long story, but it involves the way the stringers ran in the ceiling of the first floor and how they went the other way in the second floor ceiling . . . add in a bunch of wiring and hot water baseboard plumbing and it made more sense to go out and up.) Folks said there were some drawbacks with this plan: sometimes draft is harder to establish, I wouldn't get the benefit of the heat coming off the pipe and there is a greater chance of creosote build up. I am pleased to report I have had few issues with drafts, creosote is a non-issue and if I'm losing the heat I don't miss it . . . about the only negative I can come up with is the aesthetics . . . but only my neighbor sees the pipe going up the side of the house since you can't see the chimney from the road. On the positive side, I had a T-connector put in where the chimney goes up which means I only have to remove three screws, take off a cover and I can inspect and clean my chimney in less than 10 minutes while staying safe on the ground.
I ended up going with an out and up option . . . namely because of the way the hammerheads built my house (long story, but it involves the way the stringers ran in the ceiling of the first floor and how they went the other way in the second floor ceiling . . . add in a bunch of wiring and hot water baseboard plumbing and it made more sense to go out and up.) Folks said there were some drawbacks with this plan: sometimes draft is harder to establish, I wouldn't get the benefit of the heat coming off the pipe and there is a greater chance of creosote build up. I am pleased to report I have had few issues with drafts, creosote is a non-issue and if I'm losing the heat I don't miss it . . . about the only negative I can come up with is the aesthetics . . . but only my neighbor sees the pipe going up the side of the house since you can't see the chimney from the road. On the positive side, I had a T-connector put in where the chimney goes up which means I only have to remove three screws, take off a cover and I can inspect and clean my chimney in less than 10 minutes while staying safe on the ground.
I'm wondering if there is any possibility of locating the stove so that the pipe can go straight up through the roof, bypassing the loft penetration. If so, that would work better and should cost less than an exterior installation. (no tee, bracket, tee cap, thimble and less class A pipe)
I like BG's thinking...that would be the best of all configurations. As said, straight up to daylight is best for performance and ease of cleaning. If you have to go up through the loft floor, than you'll want (probably) to run double wall from the stove to the ceiling, then transition there to Class A for the remainder of the run through the loft, the roof, and up and out. If you can do like BG says, you'll run stovepipe to the roof support box and then Class A to daylight. Rick
He says that the loft is the same size (24 x 20) so I'm thinkin he's gotta run connector to the ceiling support in the floor above & Class A from there to the cap.
That way STILL has to be less expensive than a Class A tee kit & up the outside...
That way STILL has to be less expensive than a Class A tee kit & up the outside...
Thanks for the replies guys. Unfortunately, there is no way to bypass the loft area to get to the roof. Basically, I have a 24x20 building with a loft above it with a cathedral ceiling/scissor trusses set up. Also, I may have misspoke when I noted the second story loft being 24x20. It has a floor space of 24x20 but they are only half walls on the sides into a cathedral ceiling where the pipe needs to exit.
It will still cost less and perform better going straight up the interior of the building. And it will look better from the exterior of the building.
thechimneysweep
Minister of Fire
BeGreen is right, when you install a tee chimney instead of a straight-upper, you'll not only need additional chimney length to provide overhead clearance where your connector pipe 90's into the tee, but also these parts, priced at suggested retail from the DuraTech Chimney parts book:
1) Tee Support Bracket
1) 12" Chimney Length (for the bottom of the tee)
1) Tee w/Bottom Cover
1) Wall Thimble
1) 12" Chimney Length (for wall penetration)
Parts Total: $540.00
But there's another consideration: if you go straight up, the chimney pipe must be chased in where it passes through the loft. If you're handy with framing, sheetrock and paint, you can easily accomplish this for less than $540.00, but if you have to hire it done, it will bring the price of the two options closer together.
As to draft and stove performance, there are certainly tee chimneys out there that seem to perform just as well as straight-up configurations, but, like my old Grandpappy used to say, that's not how you bet.
1) Tee Support Bracket
1) 12" Chimney Length (for the bottom of the tee)
1) Tee w/Bottom Cover
1) Wall Thimble
1) 12" Chimney Length (for wall penetration)
Parts Total: $540.00
But there's another consideration: if you go straight up, the chimney pipe must be chased in where it passes through the loft. If you're handy with framing, sheetrock and paint, you can easily accomplish this for less than $540.00, but if you have to hire it done, it will bring the price of the two options closer together.
As to draft and stove performance, there are certainly tee chimneys out there that seem to perform just as well as straight-up configurations, but, like my old Grandpappy used to say, that's not how you bet.
We don't know the pitch of your roof (some pics would sure help here), but generally speaking, you're better off locating the stove so that the straight-up run of flue will penetrate the roof very close to the ridge. That way, you only need 3' of Class A above the roof penetration (so long as that puts it 2' above any part of the structure within 10' horizontally). The farther down the roof you are, the more chimney you may have to add to meet the requirement (especially true with a steeply pitched roof), and if you go more than about 5' above where you penetrate, you have to start adding braces (plus it looks like you're launching a missile). Rick
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