installing a chimney around this roof overhang?

When you come up with your final design try contacting the customer service rep to go over your plan. I have found selkirk to be very helpful when I asked them to review my plans.

BeGreen said:

This is no different than supporting the flue with a cathedral ceiling support box. The roof supports the support box. Please read the installation instructions.

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That's what I was thinking. Just use the cathedral ceiling support box and replace the tile in the drop ceiling with something that the connector pipe can pass by? But what to use in place of the drop ceiling tile?

I think the rafter support is less expensive than the cathedral kit, though they do the same thing.

Does the tile even need to be replaced? I don't think they are that easy to set fire even if you want to. Can't he just maintain the clearances?

That seems like a better plan than mine -- as long as the support box is long/tall enough.

BeGreen said:

Pagey said:

BeGreen said:

This is no different than supporting the flue with a cathedral ceiling support box. The roof supports the support box. Please read the installation instructions.

Click to expand...

That's what I was thinking. Just use the cathedral ceiling support box and replace the tile in the drop ceiling with something that the connector pipe can pass by? But what to use in place of the drop ceiling tile?

Click to expand...

The cathedral ceiling support box should be cut so that it hangs at least 2" below the drop ceiling. Then pop rivet on some angle metal to support the ceiling tiles and cut the tiles to fit around the support box. They will rest on the ledge created by the angle metal.

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Gotcha. I wonder how far the drop ceiling is below the real ceiling, though.

I just used one of those red silicone flashings for installing a mast-type electrical service through a metal roof overhang. You just hand-form the aluminum flange over the roofing ridges, then lay down some butyl tape, and screw it down. Fast and easy.

Sparkster said:

I just used one of those red silicone flashings for installing a mast-type electrical service through a metal roof overhang. You just hand-form the aluminum flange over the roofing ridges, then lay down some butyl tape, and screw it down. Fast and easy.

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Thanks, I think that is what I am going with on my shop wood burner.

You are in way over your head and you havent even started yet, I don't mean that in a mean way, it just sounds like it from what your writing.. Go to a good stove shop, ask advice, a knowledgeable installer standing there waving his hands will explain in 20 mins what will take you 20 pages to understand here. Nothing against the people here, but in person is far better than on a screen. Then be thankful for the "free" advice and make your purchase of parts there.
**The problem with the red silicone boot that was shown= you will notice there is no UL listing, those boots are nice however none of them can pass a chimney fire test to get a rating, just FYI guys.
If you end up doing the job yourself I would recommend out the wall and up with a simple offset to get around the overhang, if you cut the metal roof and make a mistake it's a costly mistake, not like plywood and shingles, I know my shop has 21 chimneys through a metal roof.

Good info iron but there are flashings that are UL rated but did not realize that one was not UL rated, this one is.
http://www.discountchimneysupply.com/catalog/item/7168127/7375932.htm

Notching the overhang, going through the overhang, going up and around the overhang, or going straight up indoors through the drop tiles and the roof all are fine. There will be costs associated [monetary costs] with any of those options. And each method will have its own hassle as for labor.

Personally, I would go up through the room indoors. The ceiling and tile are no problem, there will be some labor cutting the tile to let the pipe through and maybe even relocating some tile supports. Not a big engineering project but some time involved. There are various offset [and/or insulating] devices to allow pipe through walls, ceilings, and etc. just for this purpose. You will have to support the device as the ceiling tile system will not. However, it will not have to support the pipe itself, the pipe will simply pass through it. You can make your own, just cut the hole in the tile larger than the pipe and make a nice-looking trim for it from whatever, sheet metal perhaps.

Note that I am assuming well-insulated stovepipe. I would not want to go near the ceiling with single-wall stovepipe, and you don't either.

If you are handy, you can do this. Take your time. I've done it on our three stoves and it is fine. We have a steel roof [standing seam]. The section of pipe with the roof attachments built in supports the entire pipe down to the stove and above the roof. I put that piece in first, and get the roof boot done so I can cover that piece of the pipe with a plastic bag and be safe from snow/rain/etc. and then take my time running the pipe down through the ceiling and to the stove. The part of the pipe above the roof is simply a matter of putting it up and securing it with guide wires or whatever support system you decide.

If you are not handy, this is not a job for you. You'll either end up with a leaking roof, an unstable stovepipe, or a dangerous set-up. You want to be able to go to sleep at night and not fear a fire from your project.

I'm going to be contrary to the advice here for one condition - if it's a metal roof with the "wavy" (corrugated)metal, go around it. It's impossibly hard to get any sort of flashing to seal to it, and you'll likely collect water in the roof around the flashing even if you do it properly and get it to seal.

When I was pricing out chimney stuff I did the math and it was cheaper for me to go out the wall and up. You can chase it in (or not) and more on the point if I get fed up with it or the next owner of the house doesn't like it, it's trivial to remove the hole in the wall versus having to patch the ceiling and roof. Again, consider how much fun it's going to be to patch the corrugation. :\