Insulating my shop

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griff8907

Member
Nov 21, 2009
16
NE Indiana
My garage aka shop is a 30x60 pole barn that has my greenwood 100 located in it which is not insulated. im looking to get it insulated before this next weekend.what are some the the options that you all have used.
 
BLIMP said:
how much $ u got? & what u gonna do in it? ps= open flame in garage is illegal
By code I guess but I have no problem with any one doing it if done correctly, I am putting a wood burner in my shop and do not see the problem, I had a freind one who burned to death because a gas furnace ignited gas fumes.
 
Not to worried about the money right now just trying to figure out what i should use so that when im working out their this winter i dont have to be in the bibs and freezing my nuts off while im trying to work on stuff. hopefully whatever heat is given off by my woodburner will help keep it warm
 
Our pole barn (which now contains a shop that's about 1/3 of the available footprint) was built with 4x6 poles, with the six dimension running "in" to the inside. The exterior tin is screwed to 2x4 battens on the outside of the poles. We debated cutting 1.5" foam to fit in between the battens but doing that didn't significantly increase the over-all R value of the walls (two windows, one 5' door).

We ended up framing with 2x6s (remember the beams?) and using R19 fiberglass in the bays we created. It's pretty snug- stays cool in the summer and heats pretty easily in winter- we use a Modine Hot Dawg heater.

Note that we only did this in the shop- two interior walls, two exterior walls (it's built in the corner of the 30x40 barn). To do the barn like this would require a lot more lumber!

How do you plan to finish the interior? Just leave the insulation showing, or panel it with something?

N
 
wingarcher said:
Our pole barn (which now contains a shop that's about 1/3 of the available footprint) was built with 4x6 poles, with the six dimension running "in" to the inside. The exterior tin is screwed to 2x4 battens on the outside of the poles. We debated cutting 1.5" foam to fit in between the battens but doing that didn't significantly increase the over-all R value of the walls (two windows, one 5' door).

We ended up framing with 2x6s (remember the beams?) and using R19 fiberglass in the bays we created. It's pretty snug- stays cool in the summer and heats pretty easily in winter- we use a Modine Hot Dawg heater.

Note that we only did this in the shop- two interior walls, two exterior walls (it's built in the corner of the 30x40 barn). To do the barn like this would require a lot more lumber!

How do you plan to finish the interior? Just leave the insulation showing, or panel it with something?

N

I did the same but use 2x4's and have a 3 in. air space. Attic is blown in very heavy its tight shop!
 
I really like Roxul (mineral wool) since it doesn't burn, isn't ruined if it gets wet and doesn't lose its R value when it gets real cold.
 
What about the insulation made for pole type sheds, you do not have to stud the building.
 
When I studed my it make it so much tighter and was nice enough just sheet rock it in.
 
cheap & efficient= apply kraft face fiberglass BACKWARDS = staple the paper to the wall & try to overlap the paper of the different strips tight with lots of staples. the bare fglass is facing the interior, then cover dilligently with polyethylene [4mil min] for interior vapor barrier. finish interior wall as desired.
 
BLIMP said:
cheap & efficient= apply kraft face fiberglass BACKWARDS = staple the paper to the wall & try to overlap the paper of the different strips tight with lots of staples. the bare fglass is facing the interior, then cover dilligently with polyethylene [4mil min] for interior vapor barrier. finish interior wall as desired.
Just wondering why are you doing it that way, if any moisture gets past the plastic wont it be trapped in the insulation?
 
oldspark said:
BLIMP said:
cheap & efficient= apply kraft face fiberglass BACKWARDS = staple the paper to the wall & try to overlap the paper of the different strips tight with lots of staples. the bare fglass is facing the interior, then cover dilligently with polyethylene [4mil min] for interior vapor barrier. finish interior wall as desired.
Just wondering why are you doing it that way, if any moisture gets past the plastic wont it be trapped in the insulation?
relative permeability between interior & exterior vapor barriers or the way house was built in the 70"s kinda. rule was= interior 5x as tight as exterior. such houses were built with tarpaper between sheathing & siding. cavity held fiberglass covered with poly & then sheetrock. Built such a hous & worx great, though new science is better & more expensive for construction cost
 
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