Whitfield Profile20 igniter

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fidiro

New Member
Feb 24, 2010
283
Central NJ
Wondering if anyone knows any prices on the whitfield igniter. I was able to find a place that will make one to specs for about $40 but I think it will be only 350 watts, which should still work but may take a bit longer to light, as long as it lights.

Ebay had them for about 75 at one time. Anyone have any input if you have previously purchased one. I think that all Lennox/Whitfield igniters are the same but the specs are 3/8" D x 6"L with a 1/4"MNPT fitting rated at 400 watts 120v
 
smwilliamson said:
Grainger:

you need put on your own 1/4" leads:

HDC05260 4NJX8 28.05 (500watts)
Click to expand...

I don't know what this means, sorry. I'll post a pic of my igniter. The leads are the standard fiberglass not the swagged. But I know it's 400 watts not 500.
 
They have upgraded them to the super ignitor which is 500 watts. Price is about the same and you will get better lighting overall. Most recomembd the super ignitor. As long as the wire is rated for high heat. I don't think adding your terminals is an issue!
 
j-takeman said:
They have upgraded them to the super ignitor which is 500 watts. Price is about the same and you will get better lighting overall. Most recomembd the super ignitor. As long as the wire is rated for high heat. I don't think adding your terminals is an issue!
Click to expand...

Thanks.
 
smwilliamson said:
Grainger:

you need put on your own 1/4" leads:

HDC05260 4NJX8 28.05 (500watts)
Click to expand...

Now it became clear. Do you have a secret how to get the MNPT mounted to it?


Edit: Just realized that the part # above is 5" and mine is 5 3/4" closer to 6" which would make it part# 4NJY3 @30.50, right???. Same volts same watts. Just need to find a 1/4" SS MNPT to crazy glue to the end of igniter.LOL Will car muffler joint repair keep the fitting together with the heater, I'm not taking this to the 1/4 mile? Really, I just need a trick to get the mnpt mounted and I'll place the order for the heater and look for a SS fitting. Thanks for all the help and input so far guys.
 
pelletnubi said:
smwilliamson said:
Grainger:

you need put on your own 1/4" leads:

HDC05260 4NJX8 28.05 (500watts)
Click to expand...

Now it became clear. Do you have a secret how to get the MNPT mounted to it?


Edit: Just realized that the part # above is 5" and mine is 5 3/4" closer to 6" which would make it part# 4NJY3 @30.50, right???. Same volts same watts. Just need to find a 1/4" SS MNPT to crazy glue to the end of igniter.LOL Will car muffler joint repair keep the fitting together with the heater, I'm not taking this to the 1/4 mile? Really, I just need a trick to get the mnpt mounted and I'll place the order for the heater and look for a SS fitting. Thanks for all the help and input so far guys.
Click to expand...

Crazy glue will not work due to the extreme heat. Doesn't the collar for the MNPT attach via and allan key set screw? Look carefully on the end of the igniter and post back the HDC serial number, I may be able to find the correct fitting. Picture too for all of the lay folks in also nice.
 
smwilliamson said:
pelletnubi said:
smwilliamson said:
Grainger:

you need put on your own 1/4" leads:

HDC05260 4NJX8 28.05 (500watts)
Click to expand...

Now it became clear. Do you have a secret how to get the MNPT mounted to it?


Edit: Just realized that the part # above is 5" and mine is 5 3/4" closer to 6" which would make it part# 4NJY3 @30.50, right???. Same volts same watts. Just need to find a 1/4" SS MNPT to crazy glue to the end of igniter.LOL Will car muffler joint repair keep the fitting together with the heater, I'm not taking this to the 1/4 mile? Really, I just need a trick to get the mnpt mounted and I'll place the order for the heater and look for a SS fitting. Thanks for all the help and input so far guys.
Click to expand...

Crazy glue will not work due to the extreme heat. Doesn't the collar for the MNPT attach via and allan key set screw? Look carefully on the end of the igniter and post back the HDC serial number, I may be able to find the correct fitting. Picture too for all of the lay folks in also nice.
Click to expand...

The crazy glue was just a laugh. There is no screw holding the MNPT, it looks like it is cemented on the back side where the wires go into. Hope the pics tell the story.
 

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BLIMP said:
if the power supply to the igniter is limited to 400W, a 500W igniter wont get as hot but will last longer?
Click to expand...

If the stove only sends enough power for a 400w, will the 500w still get hot enough to ignite?


Edit: I just removed all that white cement from where the wires enter through the fitting and it looks like it is welded to igniter. If there is a MNPT that will use a set screw instead that should work just as well and make it that much easier to replace next time, just need to locate that fitting somewhere. If such fitting exists.
 
I found this 1/4" nipple that should do the trick: http://cgi.ebay.com/1-4-MNPTx1-4-MNPT-Hex-Nipple-SS304-/360179074084?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0

I'll just fill in the back of nipple with the exhaust cement and tap in a set screw. Just want to make sure the 500w will get hot enough to ignite and could I use 5" instead of 6" or does it have to reach real close to the burnpot.

This is a low budget fix that will work just as well as the original igniter.
 
from reading prior posts i guess its fine & the power to igniter isnt regulated. a 40w bulb will last as long as a 100w bulb in a simple AC room light so u should get a faster ignite from the new igniter. u might be able to get that ebay nipple @ local hardware cheaper?
 
Ah yes, now I remember. Here's how you modify it. Remove the burnpot and remove the screw holding the igniter chassis tube. With the igniter already out, remove the chassis (side note...THEY GET $120 for this chassis!!!) You want to drill three holes and tap them for allen keyed flush mount set screws. This will hold your new igniter from Grainer in place. Slide the chassis back in. You need to sink the set screws to get it to pass through. Once it is in, loosen the set screws, slide in the new igniter, set the screws to hold it in place. Seal the end with astro foil tape. Done. :snake:
 
smwilliamson said:
Ah yes, now I remember. Here's how you modify it. Remove the burnpot and remove the screw holding the igniter chassis tube. With the igniter already out, remove the chassis (side note...THEY GET $120 for this chassis!!!) You want to drill three holes and tap them for allen keyed flush mount set screws. This will hold your new igniter from Grainer in place. Slide the chassis back in. You need to sink the set screws to get it to pass through. Once it is in, loosen the set screws, slide in the new igniter, set the screws to hold it in place. Seal the end with astro foil tape. Done. :snake:
Click to expand...

Oh, that's when the 5" cartridge will work no need to get the 6" right, NICE. I'll try to attempt it this weekend, get it ready for the shorter igniter and then order it. I'll get a 1/4 MPNT plug and drill small hole to run wires through. Sounds like a plan. Thanks for the tip and hope it will help others as well.

You say the chassis is 120, do you mean the original like my setup or is it one already modified(drilled and tapped) that costs $120?
 
pelletnubi said:
smwilliamson said:
Ah yes, now I remember. Here's how you modify it. Remove the burnpot and remove the screw holding the igniter chassis tube. With the igniter already out, remove the chassis (side note...THEY GET $120 for this chassis!!!) You want to drill three holes and tap them for allen keyed flush mount set screws. This will hold your new igniter from Grainer in place. Slide the chassis back in. You need to sink the set screws to get it to pass through. Once it is in, loosen the set screws, slide in the new igniter, set the screws to hold it in place. Seal the end with astro foil tape. Done. :snake:
Click to expand...

Oh, that's when the 5" cartridge will work no need to get the 6" right, NICE. I'll try to attempt it this weekend, get it ready for the shorter igniter and then order it. I'll get a 1/4 MPNT plug and drill small hole to run wires through. Sounds like a plan. Thanks for the tip and hope it will help others as well.

You say the chassis is 120, do you mean the original like my setup or is it one already modified(drilled and tapped) that costs $120?
Click to expand...

The chassis that you will pull out, it's shaped kind of like a CO2 cartridge, with a 1/4 thread at the rear and an air hole drilled in in for the air to pass through. You will use this one to construct the mod on. The replacement chassis will look exactly as the one you are removing. I once ordered the wrong part and got the chassis instead of the igniter...$120!!! You have got to be kidding me!

You will use the chassis you already have. No need to get the MPNT fitting. Just astro foil the tape over the rear end to seal it up. You could drill out a fitting but CAUTION, the fiber coating on the leads slips. If it slips and the terminal points touch that chassis...poof! You can knock out the fuse on the control board or the board itself. Done that too once on a different mod.

You also want to mount the heater cartridge as far forward in the chassis as you can, leaving about 1/4" of space around the front of the chassis and igniter element. DO NOT LET THE ELEMENT OBSCURE THE FRONT OPENING as you will restrict airflow and the mod will not work. :shut:

If you have access to welding equipment, you could drill out the MPNT fitting and weld it to the heater cartridge then screw it in. Seal the leads through the MPNT with stove cement (1300 °F ) Also acceptable and a more polished look, as you are creating what you already have. My mod is for those who want to make things as hard as humanly possible...when you struggling at least you know you are alive!
 
smwilliamson said:
Ah yes, now I remember. Here's how you modify it. Remove the burnpot and remove the screw holding the igniter chassis tube. With the igniter already out, remove the chassis (side note...THEY GET $120 for this chassis!!!) You want to drill three holes and tap them for allen keyed flush mount set screws. This will hold your new igniter from Grainer in place. Slide the chassis back in. You need to sink the set screws to get it to pass through. Once it is in, loosen the set screws, slide in the new igniter, set the screws to hold it in place. Seal the end with astro foil tape. Done. :snake:
Click to expand...

I cleaned out my burnpot real good and found no way to remove it. Looks like the iginiter tube is welded to the stove chassis. I had lights all over the inside and found no screws. Looks like I'm going to get a 6" and work with that. I wish I had a breakdown of the stove to see what comes apart.

Do you know if there is any solder that will hold up to the extreme temps of the igniter, like if I use silver solder? Probably not but looking for a way to weld the fitting onto the cartridge. I don't want to hit it with my 250 mig, meltdown. I could always find room on the fitting to drill and tap it to hold the 6" cartridge.
 
Im just chuckling at all this post.

Time is money to me. all this time to Mod something is going to cost the same as
just getting the Original Replacement and your done.

and yes the Profile 20 amd 30 Tubes are welded.
the older advantage tubes were just pressed in with a Roll pin to hold them aligned because ignitors were options and us dealers had to install them
 
hearthtools said:
Im just chuckling at all this post.

Time is money to me. all this time to Mod something is going to cost the same as
just getting the Original Replacement and your done.

and yes the Profile 20 amd 30 Tubes are welded.
the older advantage tubes were just pressed in with a Roll pin to hold them aligned because ignitors were options and us dealers had to install them
Click to expand...

Wow, thanks for your help but didn't help much so chuckle away "at all this post". I'm happy that your time is worth more money than the part but I didn't need your comment to fix my problem so it is useless in this thread.

I guess that taking care of my three rentals, my 12 acres upstate NY, my business, my residential property, my land to be built on, and my oil changes on my 7 registered vehicles on the road don't keep me busy enough, so I look to save a few bucks here and there to keep busy. BTW, yes I do and always did my own oil/filter changes because "time is money". It's fun actually to sit around and do fixes like this one, you should try it one day.

I have plenty of time. Comments like this don't help anyone, but you did confirm that I wasn't blind and the tube is welded. So thanks for confirming.

Two homemade igniters $37, time spent on this website getting help that mattered: priceless

The chuckles in the end from a dealer looking to make a buck, well you would have lost my business on anything else I would ever need that I couldn't weld up myself or put together with duct tape.

In the end, YES I was offended by your post in case you can't tell.
 
pelletnubi said:
hearthtools said:
Im just chuckling at all this post.

Time is money to me. all this time to Mod something is going to cost the same as
just getting the Original Replacement and your done.

and yes the Profile 20 amd 30 Tubes are welded.
the older advantage tubes were just pressed in with a Roll pin to hold them aligned because ignitors were options and us dealers had to install them
Click to expand...

Wow, thanks for your help but didn't help much so chuckle away "at all this post". I'm happy that your time is worth more money than the part but I didn't need your comment to fix my problem so it is useless in this thread.

I guess that taking care of my three rentals, my 12 acres upstate NY, my business, my residential property, my land to be built on, and my oil changes on my 7 registered vehicles on the road don't keep me busy enough, so I look to save a few bucks here and there to keep busy. BTW, yes I do and always did my own oil/filter changes because "time is money". It's fun actually to sit around and do fixes like this one, you should try it one day.

I have plenty of time. Comments like this don't help anyone, but you did confirm that I wasn't blind and the tube is welded. So thanks for confirming.

Two homemade igniters $37, time spent on this website getting help that mattered: priceless

The chuckles in the end from a dealer looking to make a buck, well you would have lost my business on anything else I would ever need that I couldn't weld up myself or put together with duct tape.

In the end, YES I was offended by your post in case you can't tell.
Click to expand...

No need to get all bunched up.
Im no longer in the retail biz.
Im looking at it as a service aspect.
spending 6 hours plus of my time of net research, Shopping for the part and fabricating a part just is not worth it if the part that fits is available.
Now in the past 20 years I have taken the time and my fabrication skills to make parts that are no longer available for stoves.
Even gone to a machine shop to have augers and other part made up that were beyond my available.
 
Sometimes working around something is just therapy. If I had to depend upon mods to make a living I would be out of business, but when I have time to spare, nothing beats a good old fashioned puzzle.

$37.00 vs. $88 for anew igniter...awesome

Having a better understanding of how your machine works and feeling like a winner....priceless.

GOOD JOB! :cheese:
 
smwilliamson said:
Sometimes working around something is just therapy. If I had to depend upon mods to make a living I would be out of business, but when I have time to spare, nothing beats a good old fashioned puzzle.

$37.00 vs. $88 for anew igniter...awesome

Having a better understanding of how your machine works and feeling like a winner....priceless.

GOOD JOB! :cheese:
Click to expand...

"THERAPY" That just may be why I do things like this, to keep my mind off the million other things going on. So that was well quoted.

I actually got two igniters for $37.

I was going to order the one from grainger but I had to wait 24hrs after registering to place my first order with them. I registered and started messing around on ebay and found two watlow w/48" leads for $33 shipped. $4 for two SS fittings. I forgot I still have to drill and tap the fittings so I may still spend another 2 bucks but in the end I'll have a spare. It'll still be less than 40 for both.

And having a better understanding of how my stove works is priceless.

Thanks guys for all the good info.
 
Hi

I was just reading this thread in hope that I could fix my profile 20.

If the igniter is welded how do you change it or for that matter how do you even access it ? I have taken the back panels off, the side panels off and I don't see any door or panel to the igniter. Keep in mind I am a novice at best. Also, I noticed that the blower will not change settings. Any advice would be greatly appreciated.
 
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