I have created a disaster when sharpening my chains

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nater37

nater37

New Member
Aug 28, 2010
5
Texas Panhandle
Hello guys.... I have been sharpening chains for years in the field not knowing exactly what I was doing but had great results with my hand file for the cutters and flat file for the depth gauges. But through the years I have grown to have many chains. So I decided to buy me a electric Oregon Model 511AX using a 3/16 grinder wheel. Once again not knowing the correct settings I just tried my best to copy the angel the chains were. After burning up a bar from the chain heat I am scared to continue without help. the chain I use is the

stihl - 26RMC
drive link - 81
Gauge - .63
Pitch - .325

After playing with the grinder on a few older chains I have gotten better but not near what I can get with my hand file that just takes alot more doing as I have to put each chain on the saw to sharpen. But here are the settings i have been using

Back of the ginder has a tilt i have set on 50 degrees

the angle on the grinder i have set to 30 degrees

once again using a 3/16 grinding wheel

but another problem is it seems I dont have the tilt set right because it grinds off part of my link when I grind it. I may have just wasted a couple hundred dallors in chains bars and sharpener. If u guys can help sure would be appreciated
 
Tilt is 60 degree and the cutter angle is 30 degrees!
 

This might help



You have an awsome grinder!
 
Nate,The biggest hurdle is not to take off any more material than is necessary.You will find out how well you have been filing.The next trick is not to go to deep into the cutter.If you get the tooth red hot it will not hold an edge very well.Practice and patience are a valuable asset. Take your time and welcome to the site. Do not forget to check your rakers! Ken in Coleman
 
There is a depth of stroke setting on the top side right hand that limits how far you may advance the grinding wheel down. You should not be cutting into the tie strap at all. Depending on the chain you might need some 1/8" wheels. The wheel should be dressed in a u shape( in other words the wheel edge should be round), should have a gauge that came with your unit for that purpose. It has at least 3 slots in it one ea. for 1/8", 3/16",1/4" wheels. Some of the people prefer 35 deg. angle across the tooth also 65 deg works a little better on full chisel chain as it does not create such a hook.
 
thanks alot guys for all the info this should get me going down the right path... I have gotten some of the teeth hot so they have turned blue. Are these chains ruined or are they still going to hold an edge?? I pulled out the grinder gauge and the .325 chain seems to fall in between the 3/16" grinder and the 1/8" grinder.
 
if I am reading it right from the stihl site that was posted it shows that a 40 and a 30 are the setting for the .325 chains and a offset of 15. So does this really matter or can I just go with the 60/30 or the 65/35??
 
nater37 said:
if I am reading it right from the stihl site that was posted it shows that a 40 and a 30 are the setting for the .325 chains and a offset of 15. So does this really matter or can I just go with the 60/30 or the 65/35??
Click to expand...

I cut them at (3/8 and .325) 30/60 and the micro chains at 20/60 and milling chains at 10/60
 
Even the cheap grinders have a stop screw that prevents you from grinding into the strap of the link. You set that screw first and then leave it alone until the grinding wheel wears out.

You adjust how much the wheel takes off of the tooth by advancing the chain along the rail. You set that adjustment once per chain so that each tooth is the same length. Your stihl chain should have a little angle reference line cut into the top of the tooth. I just match that angle and don't get all particular about whether it is 30 or 35. So long as you stay consistent your 290 won't care.

The video was good but that guy was taking quite a bit off of each link with the machine. A few light touches until the tooth is sharp is all it takes. Also, he shuts off the grinder between each tooth to file rakers. You don't need to do this. File the rakers at the end, all at once and only if needed. If the guy wasn't grinding off so much tooth then he might not need to file the rakers every time.

You'll learn to love the grinder. You can salvage the chains. Not sure how you ruined your saw's bars though.
 
Highbeam said:
Even the cheap grinders have a stop screw that prevents you from grinding into the strap of the link. You set that screw first and then leave it alone until the grinding wheel wears out.

You adjust how much the wheel takes off of the tooth by advancing the chain along the rail. You set that adjustment once per chain so that each tooth is the same length. Your stihl chain should have a little angle reference line cut into the top of the tooth. I just match that angle and don't get all particular about whether it is 30 or 35. So long as you stay consistent your 290 won't care.

The video was good but that guy was taking quite a bit off of each link with the machine. A few light touches until the tooth is sharp is all it takes. Also, he shuts off the grinder between each tooth to file rakers. You don't need to do this. File the rakers at the end, all at once and only if needed. If the guy wasn't grinding off so much tooth then he might not need to file the rakers every time.

You'll learn to love the grinder. You can salvage the chains. Not sure how you ruined your saw's bars though.
Click to expand...

The video is me, and thats a cyclone wheel you need to watch the sparks. That will tell you that very little is being taken.
 
Ha! it's you eh? Well I'm not familiar with a cyclone wheel but a normal abrasive wheel like nater probably has won't need so much time on each tooth. Also, his chain is probably much smaller than what you were grinding so is even more sensitive to over grinding.

It is very important to not overgrind. You will put too much heat into the tooth and waste the chain much sooner than if you just sharpen the teeth.
 
Highbeam said:
Ha! it's you eh? Well I'm not familiar with a cyclone wheel but a normal abrasive wheel like nater probably has won't need so much time on each tooth. Also, his chain is probably much smaller than what you were grinding so is even more sensitive to over grinding.

It is very important to not overgrind. You will put too much heat into the tooth and waste the chain much sooner than if you just sharpen the teeth.
Click to expand...

With a cyclone cuts much cooler and much less dust nice wheel made out of magnesium. If you lay it on the cutting like I was doing it keeps it form having a dimple on it. Very Very slick deal if done right. Now with a stone wheel I use "cool grind" and this helps a lot as well but not as good as the cyclone.


http://www.baileysonline.com/itemdetail.asp?item=46440&catID;=
 
The most common wheel is a pink colored wheel, there is also a resin bonded brown wheel which is available, it is softer and hence produces less heat during the sharpening process. If one uses a series of light passes rather than just jamming down on each tooth , burning can be avoided. That cyclone wheel might be a brand name for a CBN (Cubic Boron Nitrate) plated wheel, they are quite pricey, they due have an advantage in that they need not be dressed to the proper shape and can be used on carbide tipped chains.
 
blades said:
The most common wheel is a pink colored wheel, there is also a resin bonded brown wheel which is available, it is softer and hence produces less heat during the sharpening process. If one uses a series of light passes rather than just jamming down on each tooth , burning can be avoided. That cyclone wheel might be a brand name for a CBN (Cubic Boron Nitrate) plated wheel, they are quite pricey, they due have an advantage in that they need not be dressed to the proper shape and can be used on carbide tipped chains.
Click to expand...

Yes it is also know as a CBN. With a stone it will still be 3 taps just a little quicker and kool grind on the wheel. Dont know if you can tell by the video but the pressure is very light and the 3 pass is extremely light. You can tell by the sparks.
 
smokinjay said:
blades said:
The most common wheel is a pink colored wheel, there is also a resin bonded brown wheel which is available, it is softer and hence produces less heat during the sharpening process. If one uses a series of light passes rather than just jamming down on each tooth , burning can be avoided. That cyclone wheel might be a brand name for a CBN (Cubic Boron Nitrate) plated wheel, they are quite pricey, they due have an advantage in that they need not be dressed to the proper shape and can be used on carbide tipped chains.
Click to expand...

Yes it is also know as a CBN. With a stone it will still be 3 taps just a little quicker and kool grind on the wheel. Dont know if you can tell by the video but the pressure is very light and the 3 pass is extremely light. You can tell by the sparks.
Click to expand...



Smokin, whats your view on the "Speed sharp chain grinder"??
 
johnnywarm said:
smokinjay said:
blades said:
The most common wheel is a pink colored wheel, there is also a resin bonded brown wheel which is available, it is softer and hence produces less heat during the sharpening process. If one uses a series of light passes rather than just jamming down on each tooth , burning can be avoided. That cyclone wheel might be a brand name for a CBN (Cubic Boron Nitrate) plated wheel, they are quite pricey, they due have an advantage in that they need not be dressed to the proper shape and can be used on carbide tipped chains.
Click to expand...

Yes it is also know as a CBN. With a stone it will still be 3 taps just a little quicker and kool grind on the wheel. Dont know if you can tell by the video but the pressure is very light and the 3 pass is extremely light. You can tell by the sparks.
Click to expand...



Smokin, whats your view on the "Speed sharp chain grinder"??
Click to expand...

They look very much like a organ 511a heavy duty grinders. I think it would be in the same ball park as the 511a and 511ax. I have the 511a. In the video you can see my left hand holding the chain the newer ones this isnt needed no big deal but some dont like that.
 
smokinjay said:
johnnywarm said:
smokinjay said:
blades said:
The most common wheel is a pink colored wheel, there is also a resin bonded brown wheel which is available, it is softer and hence produces less heat during the sharpening process. If one uses a series of light passes rather than just jamming down on each tooth , burning can be avoided. That cyclone wheel might be a brand name for a CBN (Cubic Boron Nitrate) plated wheel, they are quite pricey, they due have an advantage in that they need not be dressed to the proper shape and can be used on carbide tipped chains.
Click to expand...

Yes it is also know as a CBN. With a stone it will still be 3 taps just a little quicker and kool grind on the wheel. Dont know if you can tell by the video but the pressure is very light and the 3 pass is extremely light. You can tell by the sparks.
Click to expand...



Smokin, whats your view on the "Speed sharp chain grinder"??
Click to expand...

They look very much like a organ 511a heavy duty grinders. I think it would be in the same ball park as the 511a and 511ax. I have the 511a. In the video you can see my left hand holding the chain the newer this isnt need no big deal but some dont like that.
Click to expand...


Thank you!
 
All this info is great guys. thanks so much for the help. Yes the grinder did come with the pink wheels and yes I did get all my chains hot and turned them blue. Probably the reason they are not staying sharp for very long, as for the bar it got so hot that it was smoking more than the elm wood when I burn it :p. But I have noticed a big difference since i have made adjustments and maybe with time the burned edge will be filed off
 
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