The Best Way to Burn

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Sierra Guy

New Member
Sep 9, 2010
38
Northern California
Hi Everyone,

This is my first posting and thank you very much in advance for your help! My beloved 1995 Defiant Encore (cat) will soon be replaced by an Isle Royale and, after reading many of the comments on this site, it looks like I may have been operating my wood stove improperly for the last 14 years. I've always controlled stove temperature by the amount of wood in the stove while keeping the primary air control lever full open to achieve clean burns. Now I'm wondering if the catalytic converter in the Defiant would have taken care of the additional deposits if I loaded the stove up with wood and shut down the air control to 3/4,1/2, or whatever? I once tried to burn all night but the stove got pretty dirty from this one try. Probably operator error. However, burning all night isn't real important anyway where I live in Northern California.

I have the same question for the new Isle Royale. From the postings I've read it looks like the new stoves "assume" some adjustment of the air control and that the secondary burn systems take care of any resulting additional pollutants so there isn't much impact (i.e. creosote, smoke, etc.). So should I just load it up and adjust primary air as required to control temperature? It may not be as simple as this but thought I'd ask.

Thanks again for your help!


Jim

P.S. For the record, my Defiant Encore has been a great stove and is still as beautiful red as the day I bought it. However it needs a catalytic converter and refractory assembly and this $500 worth of parts, the 30% tax credit, and mostly my wife's desire...I still love our old stove...led us to the Isle Royal.
 

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Hi Jim. Nice hearth. That truly looks like a cat stove.

Control the temperature by the amount of fuel in the stove and the amount of air given to burn that fuel. Don't run a stove wide open. If the stove gets pretty dirty when the air supply is reduced the most likely cause is that the wood is not really seasoned dry. Modern stoves really want dry wood to function at their best.

Most of us only burn a few splits when the temperatures are mild. At our house, we don't start running full loads of wood until the temps get in the 30's. Let the first load heat up the stove, then reduce the air to where the fire visibly reduces in size and vigor, but not to the point of snuffing the flame out.
 
Yeah, you pretty much screwed up for the last 14 years. Cat stoves were designed to burn long and slow with a low air setting. Best efficiency is to turn down the air til the flames slow down, turn a darker orange or blue color and start to lift off the logs. The new stove you bought shouldn't be burned wide open as well except for the first 10-20 minutes or so.
 
Thanks for your comments. I guess by burning more "efficient" I'll get more heat for the amount of firewood used AND a cleaner fire. If that's the case, I'll amend my ways and adjust the air accordingly!


Jim
 
Read the manual. Quadrafire does a good job of describing the stages of the burn cycle and air settings in the stove docs.
 
Welcome to the forums, Jim. Basically the goal of any new stove on the market is to achieve higher efficiency by burning the volatile gases released by wood during its primary combustion. In other words, the goal is to achieve what is termed "secondary combustion". In a non-catalytic stove that uses the "burn tube" type technology, this secondary combustion will appear as flames above the wood in the top area of the firebox. It can be anything from a slow, lazy, and whispy "ghost flame" to the full on "bowels of hell" type flames with jets of flames shooting out the holes in the burn tubes (similar to jets of flame on a gas grill).

As you adjust the air control, you are basically changing the balance of primary air vs. secondary air in the stove. For example, on the bottom of my Lopi Endeavor, there is a huge squarish hole that is wide open when the air control rod is pulled all the way out (thus, open). Pushing the air control in causes a metal sleeve to slide back and cover this primary air opening. This causes the stove to pull in more of its combustion air through the channels on the side of the stove that feed the burn tubes. Each stove's secondary air setup is unique, but the principal is the same - you are shifting the balance of air in the stove to favor secondary combustion. This extracts heat from the volatile gases that would otherwise go up the flue, wasted.

As you play around with the stove, you'll learn when to adjust your air and by how much to adjust it. For example, if I already have an established coal bed and a warm stove, I can have my air control almost all the way closed only 15-20 minutes after reloading the stove. If I am starting from a cold stove, it takes longer of course. Some people can completely close the primary air on their stoves and maintain active secondary combustion for hours. My stove, even with well seasoned wood, requires the air control to be pulled out about 1/4" to perform its best.

You'll have it dialed in before you know it!
 
I live on several forested acres at 3,000' which gives us a good mixture of Oak and Pine. Another 1,000' up the hill and it's almost all Pine. So, we burn almost all Oak with some pine for starting and mixing while burning.
 
That's a great looking install, by the way! Very cozy looking. Have you experimented with your burn technique any more?
 
Thanks, Pagey. We haven't burned this year yet. The Defiant Encore is partially disassembled but we'll be getting the Isle Royale installed next week. Afterwards, my training on the best way to burn begins. I'm really looking forward to it since it's getting pretty cool at night here although still warm during the day.
 
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