pacific energy t5 baffel gasket?

I destroyed mine halfway through last year. I pieced it together as best I could and finished the year with it without a problem. There are instructions on here about how to make a sturdier one out of rope gasket. But I would definitely replace it.

Would you guys mind enlightening me on how to check and change this gasket? Not that I need to but sounds like good to know info. Thanks.

Here is a link for cleaning, inspection, and construction of the gasket .

https://www.hearth.com/econtent/index.php/forums/viewthread/26827/

And another option:

https://www.hearth.com/econtent/index.php/forums/viewthread/43898/

Just paid my dealer $12 for 3 baffle gaskets. I think all of the PE stoves and inserts use the same gasket.

Thanks guys, so it is as simple as pulling the pin and lifting out the complete baffle plate?

I could be wrong, I just noticed that when the dealer was looking at his price list there was only one baffle gasket listed, and it was not identified for any particular stove.

Just pull out the pin and the baffle will come out. You have to tilt it slightly to lower it past the rails.

Thanks again. Is this a yearly thing to check? I have cleaned the chimney however I have not removed the baffle yet. Remember this is only my first year burning so I hope it is good to go. Fire is raging has I type.

Most of the OEM's don't last the first yr.

Stove will still burn wood without it, I went with "roll your own" rope gasket, it is still in good shape. There is a small leak (you can tell this by the secondary that is emitted in the area of the gasket) that has been there since i first tied and inserted the replacement. Too lazy to tie/try another as I do not think it's a big deal with or without the gasket. If I had a cheap source for the kaowool, i would try that for grins.

Double check that. I thought that there were two different sizes of this gasket, but could be wrong. Wouldn’t be the first time (or last).

Click to expand...

Right as usual, BG. The Vista/T4 series and Super/T5 models share a baffle gasket which has a smaller hole in it to correspond with their smaller air feed tubes. The Summit/T6 models have a lager air tube, and a larger hole in the gasket.

madison said:

Most of the OEM's don't last the first yr.

Stove will still burn wood without it, I went with "roll your own" rope gasket, it is still in good shape. There is a small leak (you can tell this by the secondary that is emitted in the area of the gasket) that has been there since i first tied and inserted the replacement. Too lazy to tie/try another as I do not think it's a big deal with or without the gasket. If I had a cheap source for the kaowool, i would try that for grins.

Click to expand...

Link to a closeup picture of the secondary coming out by the "roll your own gasket" -- https://www.hearth.com/econtent/index.php/forums/viewreply/495668/

madison said:

Most of the OEM's don't last the first yr.

Stove will still burn wood without it, I went with "roll your own" rope gasket, it is still in good shape. There is a small leak (you can tell this by the secondary that is emitted in the area of the gasket) that has been there since i first tied and inserted the replacement. Too lazy to tie/try another as I do not think it's a big deal with or without the gasket. If I had a cheap source for the kaowool, i would try that for grins.

Click to expand...

You can also cut out a gasket from a batt of Roxul insulation. Just make sure you use a serrated knife. A lot cheaper than kaowool.

sisu,

Roxul insulation ? Is it a flat sheet? I've never heard or seen of it, (googling as soon as I am done typing) ...

madison said:

sisu,

Roxul insulation ? Is it a flat sheet? I've never heard or seen of it, (googling as soon as I am done typing) ...

Click to expand...

http://www.roxul.com/residential/products/roxul+comfortbatt™

It is batt insulation made to fit between studs for building insulation, just like the pink fiberglass insulation. However, it is made from heating basalt rock into liquid and spinning it into fiber. It can withstand temperature up to 2150˚F (1177˚C). Costs $30-40 Canadian and comes in bundles that would provide more than enough material for the life of your stove.

Sisu said:

madison said:

sisu,

Roxul insulation ? Is it a flat sheet? I've never heard or seen of it, (googling as soon as I am done typing) ...

Click to expand...

http://www.roxul.com/residential/products/roxul+comfortbatt™

It is batt insulation made to fit between studs for building insulation, just like the pink fiberglass insulation. However, it is made from heating basalt rock into liquid and spinning it into fiber. It can withstand temperature up to 2150˚F (1177˚C). Costs $30-40 Canadian and comes in bundles that would provide more than enough material for the life of your stove.

Click to expand...

So would you pinch off a bunch and roll it into a strand ? Have you actually used this stuff in the summit? Pictures of the process in a new thread would be enlightening.

madison said:

Sisu said:

madison said:

sisu,

Roxul insulation ? Is it a flat sheet? I've never heard or seen of it, (googling as soon as I am done typing) ...

Click to expand...

http://www.roxul.com/residential/products/roxul+comfortbatt™

It is batt insulation made to fit between studs for building insulation, just like the pink fiberglass insulation. However, it is made from heating basalt rock into liquid and spinning it into fiber. It can withstand temperature up to 2150˚F (1177˚C). Costs $30-40 Canadian and comes in bundles that would provide more than enough material for the life of your stove.

Click to expand...

So would you pinch off a bunch and roll it into a strand ? Have you actually used this stuff in the summit? Pictures of the process in a new thread would be enlightening.

Click to expand...

I tried it in my Pacific insert and it worked. Unfortunately I did not document it with pictures, so according to internet rules it didn't happen. I didn't make one this year because I had PE gasket that came with my replaced baffle that was still intact.

If you look at a Roxul batt of insulation, you can peel and/or cut a sheet of desired thickness from the batt. From this, you can carefully cut the size and shape you want. Use a serrated knife, otherwise you will just tear the material and make a mess.

If the three dollar part would last the yr, I agree. Moving that baffle in and out anymore than is necessary is my goal.

Last post, just to beat a dead horse...

I witnessed my gasket dangling in the back of the stove the first yr burning my t6, prior to ever removing the baffle. I didn't even know there was any gasket until pulling out the baffle and shredded gasket after the first season.

My "hog gasket", (the 3/8" rope gasket cost more than the OEM material) is still as good as when I first tied it, and I have removed and cleaned the baffle more than once since installing it. The gasket came from the local tractor supply, the nearest PE dealer, one hr away, did not have any gaskets in stock.....

I'll put the horse to rest : ))

Dead horse revived...

3/8" gasket, rubber gloves , cut a piece of gasket approximate length to circumvent the airtube "derope" the ends realized piece would be too short, then on the second try approximate length and added an inch or two, deprope the gasket, tied ~ half dozen of the deroped ends. reinstalled. It did compress, getting the pin to hold the baffle was a little struggle, 1/4 " would probably be ideal, my tractor supply store only had 3/8".

picture above shows that it did compress pretty well. normal secondaries out all the bottom and front holes of the baffle, plus a little around the gasket area as well. As hog stated, his did the same, he thinks it helps burn the wood in the back of the box, i have no comments on that aspect.

imho, the gasket probably is not necessary, but it definately makes the EBT work more efficiently, haha talk about reviving dead horses