Englander 30 or 13??

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eman5oh

Member
Sep 24, 2010
26
Cortland NY
Well I have been reading and learning about wood stoves and have decided to buy an Englander 13 or 30 stove. I am not sure what model to buy. So for the details, I have a new modular two story home built in 2008 with 6 inch r19 insulated walls and r35 in the attic on a Superior walls xi foundation with 9 ft walls with 2 in foam insulation. The house is 2000 sq feet, (1000 per floor basement excluded). I do how ever have a lot of windows and no wind protection along with living in a windy area. Also any estimates on the number of face cords I will need for the heating season? I live in Cortland NY which is central upstate NY. Take it easy on me I new to this, but am will to listen to those that have advise. Thanks
 
That will probably depend on how well the heat can circulate and the floor plan. If the stove is central and the floorplan open, then a bigger stove might work. But if the stove is at the end of the house in a somewhat separate area, then maybe the 13NC would be better. How large is the area where the stove is located?
 
Welcome!

Get the 30, and start looking for wood - try to find some that's been cut and split for a year or so. You will pay a premium, but you will be unhappy with your new stove if you burn green wood.
 
The stove will be placed on the first floor unfortunately it will be located in one end of the house. I am wonder why the bigger stove would be better in a central location and the smaller stove at one end. It seems to me it would be the other way around. The floor plan on the first floor is a very open plan with a large open fourier leading to the second floor. Thanks
 
The concern would be if the stove would only be heating a room and not the rest of the house due to the stove being closed off by partitions or doors. Note I said at one end in a somewhat separate area.

If the floor plan is very open, then a larger stove may work fine. From the description, I would be leaning toward the 30NC with a blower.
 
eman5oh said:
wonder why the bigger stove would be better in a central location and the smaller stove at one end

Moving the heat around is tougher than you think. Stove at one end, heat can only go one way, and only so far - stove in the middle, heat goes in all directions, so the bigger stove can function more as a central heater.
 
branchburner said:
eman5oh said:
wonder why the bigger stove would be better in a central location and the smaller stove at one end

Moving the heat around is tougher than you think. Stove at one end, heat can only go one way, and only so far - stove in the middle, heat goes in all directions, so the bigger stove can function more as a central heater.

Makes sense, I plan on installing a ceiling fan in that room and already have an other in the room on the other side of the house. I have no doors seperating the rooms on the first floor just large openings between the rooms. Will the larger stove hold a fire longer than the smaller stove all other things equal?
 
eman5oh said:
Will the larger stove hold a fire longer than the smaller stove all other things equal?

Absolutely. The larger firebox allows for more heat (nice for those really cold spells), and longer heat (nice for longer burns overnight or while at work). The disadvantage of a too-large stove, as BG said, is you can very easily get the room with the stove much hotter than you'd like.

For moving heat, better results are had with blowing cooler floor air into the room with the stove, rather than trying to blow hot air out of the room. (The method works well with ceiling fans to support the desired air flow.)
 
Thanks for the info so far. I am planing to but the stove from overstock stoves, any one have any experiance with them? http://www.overstockstoves.com/50nowomo2sqf.html Also any advise as to were to buy the chimney? I am looking to do a triple wall stainless chimney. As for wood any one care to take a stab at how many face cords will be needed? I use around 800 gallons of propane a season for heat and hot water in a 85 % efficient wall hung boiler. I fmy math is correct and that means about 10-11 face cords. What do you think?
 
eman5oh said:
Thanks for the info so far. I am planing to but the stove from overstock stoves, any one have any experiance with them? http://www.overstockstoves.com/50nowomo2sqf.html Also any advise as to were to buy the chimney? I am looking to do a triple wall stainless chimney. As for wood any one care to take a stab at how many face cords will be needed? I use around 800 gallons of propane a season for heat and hot water in a 85 % efficient wall hung boiler. I fmy math is correct and that means about 10-11 face cords. What do you think?

No experience . . . but if you're wicked sharp (as Brother Bart is) you may notice that both Englander and Overstockstoves.com just happen to be in the same town as each other . . . makes one go "Hmmmmmmm."

For the chimney why not go with double or single wall chimney pipe inside and insulated stainless steel for the actual Class A . . . I went with ICC Excel (bought through my chimney sweep) and I have been quite happy with it.

As for the number of cords . . . I don't do face cords . . . hard to say . . . depends on your size house, lay-out, if you plan to burn 24/7, how hot you like things, insulation, climate, etc. . . .

I can tell you that here in Maine in a 1,800 square foot two-story Cape with a semi-open layout built in the 1970s (so moderately insulated) I go through 4-6 cords of wood each year whereas before I was going through 550-650 gallons of heating oil each year.
 
firefighterjake said:
No experience . . . but if you're wicked sharp (as Brother Bart is) you may notice that both Englander and Overstockstoves.com just happen to be in the same town as each other . . . makes one go "Hmmmmmmm."


Wicked sharp, eh?


Visit the 'overstockstoves.com' profile page at manta (http://www.manta.com/c/mm8cbzv/overstock-stoves) and you'll see that it's linked with another company - (dba) Englander Transport. Hmmm indeed. Visit the site for Englander Transport and you'll notice a link at the bottom of that page to... England's Stove Works. Also on the Manta page it lists Carroll Hudson as the president of overstock stoves.

Now where have I heard that name before.... :lol: http://www.linkedin.com/pub/carroll-hudson/15/b5a/385



As far as experience with overstock stoves... I just bought a 28-3500 (timber ridge version) from them. Less than a week and it was here in UT, ready for pickup. It was a great transaction! I recommend them.
 
Well went out to My local home depot to look at a Englander 30 in person and liked what I saw. The guy was just setting up the stove display and said it was last years stove and it still had the $999 price tag on it and he sold it to me for that price. I was happy because the this years price is $1299 from them and it was only a little more expensive than ordering online, but I don't have to wait or deal with the shipping. BTW I also looked at some of the US Stove Models at Tractor supply and was considering the 2015 strongly before I did a little research on this forum. The Englander is much better built and just bigger than the 2015. :)
 
Nice - prepare to get warm!
 
800 gallons of propane is gonna be about 4+ (full) cords or approx 12 face cords. How open is the first floor to the second? If you cannot get good air circ. to the second floor to help dissipate the heat, that NC30 will probably blow you out of the first floor windows. If you DO have the ability to move air around, the NC30 is a more properly sized box for 2000 sqft.

This comes a little after the fact (since you have purchased the 30), but just thought I would throw that out there.
 
The first floor is open to the second floor by a large fourier with a open stair case. I think this should let the air move easily up the second floor. I hope....
 
eman5oh said:
The first floor is open to the second floor by a large fourier with a open stair case. I think this should let the air move easily up the second floor. I hope....

Good to know. Prepare for full steam ahead.
 
Congratulations. With a little fan help it sounds like you are in for a very comfortable winter and much lower heating bills. It may take a fan placed on the floor from the opposite side of the house (assuming a clear visual shot) pointed towards the stove, to improve heat distribution, or maybe if the stove is pointed towards the body of the rest of the house the blower itself will be enough? A little experimentation with a table fan and a thermometer will tell.
 
Looking forward to staying warm this winter and fearing the bill. I have alway kept the house cooler than I would like to save money. Not this year. Nothing like sitting next to a warm wood stove to take the chill off.
 
Here's your shirt. Overstock isn't just in the same town, it is at the same street address. I waited for two years for Mike to tell me to shut the hell up and he didn't so I finally posted that.

Eat it Lowe's!
 

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Your BIGGEST problem is that you do not have any SEASONED wood yet. I would guess that the chance of any wood you buy now being seasoned is slim & none. I also think slim left town. The wood you get now should be good for the 2011/2012 season.
Al

P.S. DID I MENTION THAT YOU HAVE TO HAVE SEASONED WOOD.
 
lobsta1 said:
Your BIGGEST problem is that you do not have any SEASONED wood yet. I would guess that the chance of any wood you buy now being seasoned is slim & none. I also think slim left town. The wood you get now should be good for the 2011/2012 season.
Al

P.S. DID I MENTION THAT YOU HAVE TO HAVE [bold]SEASONED[/bold] WOOD.

I have a line on some and hope it does not fall though. Will keep oyu guys posted. My next challenge is the chimney. I am going to take to take a look in the attic and basement to see what I am up against in the quest for a straight shot up thought he second floor and out the attic. The way I see it I have to dodge ceiling studs then floor joist though a room more ceiling studs, thought the attic and hopefully between roof trusses. If will not work out it will be out the wall and up the side of the house. Wish me luck as I would prefer the straight up and though route.
 
BrotherBart said:
Here's your shirt. Overstock isn't just in the same town, it is at the same street address. I waited for two years for Mike to tell me to shut the hell up and he didn't so I finally posted that.

Eat it Lowe's!

You get a shirt when you buy an Englander stove?????

Hmppff !
 
So I know the stove I purchased is tax credit eligible, but am confused on the eff rateing of the stove. The paper that came with the stove showed it as arounf 65% eff but the tax credit need 75% with "lower heating value" . What does lower heating value mean? Is the stove 65% eff when running full tilt and better when not run as hard?
 
eman5oh said:
So I know the stove I purchased is tax credit eligible, but am confused on the eff rateing of the stove. The paper that came with the stove showed it as arounf 65% eff but the tax credit need 75% with "lower heating value" . What does lower heating value mean? Is the stove 65% eff when running full tilt and better when not run as hard?

There should be a * next to that rating. From what I've read, Englander doesn't have efficiency ratings on their stoves, so the government just goes by what other stoves that size get for efficiency as an average. Probably what makes that stove eligible is the low grams/hr chimney emissions. I would guess that stove should be in the 75-80% efficient range.

**edit**
Also, stoves are more efficient wide open, much less efficient when damped down to put out less heat.
 
joecool85 said:
**edit**
Also, stoves are more efficient wide open, much less efficient when damped down to put out less heat.

I'm not sure that this is true at all. At wide open throttle, much more heat is escaping up the stack instead of radiating to the room. That would equate to a loss of efficiency. Also, at WOT there is typically more particulates that go up the stack. That equates to fuel. This is just my rambling thoughts, but I am ready to learn.
 
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