How do you cut firebrick?

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Beowulf

Beowulf

New Member
Dec 24, 2009
211
SoCal Southern Sierras
If I work up the motivation to re-brick my QF3000, and add some brick in spots that it does not currently have it, I will need to cut the bricks into shapes to fit the spots. Some are kind of long and skinny, in the corners.

What have you used to successfully cut/shape firebrick?

My thoughts so far:

Wide chisel and hammer...

Angle grinder with a cut-off wheel to make a groove, then snap.

Circular saw with a tile blade?

Any help is appreciated. Pictures and more questions on this thread:

https://www.hearth.com/econtent/index.php/forums/viewthread/59852/
 
Beowulf said:
If I work up the motivation to re-brick my QF3000, and add some brick in spots that it does not currently have it, I will need to cut the bricks into shapes to fit the spots. Some are kind of long and skinny, in the corners.

What have you used to successfully cut/shape firebrick?

My thoughts so far:

Wide chisel and hammer...

Angle grinder with a cut-off wheel to make a groove, then snap.

Circular saw with a tile blade?

Any help is appreciated. Pictures and more questions on this thread:

https://www.hearth.com/econtent/index.php/forums/viewthread/59852/
Click to expand...
circular saw with masonry blade, snap @ ur own risk
 
PapaDave said:
Tile wet saw.
Click to expand...

+1 Do this if possible... very precise tool!
 
4 1/2 inch angle grinder, masonary/stone blade, saftey glasses, dust mask and a place to get dirty!
 
I have cut a lot of firebrick. I have used a cold chisel to score it all the way around (chipping at edge) then striking the cold chisel with a lump hammer to break- it breaks on the line, but is not smooth.

A masonry blade on a circular saw works great, as long as it's not a super duty brick (then you need a wet saw).

Wear eye protection! Stuff is dangerous if you don't.
 
I put a diamond blade on my saw and cut some pretty heavy duty patio pavers, it cost $70 but I had a lot to cut, in your case a 3 pak of cheap masonry blades would do the trick.
 
Pineburner said:
4 1/2 inch angle grinder, masonary/stone blade, saftey glasses, dust mask and a place to get dirty!
Click to expand...

This worked for me a couple of weeks ago. Had to cut 4 bricks, picked up a masonary blade for my angle grinder and they cut surprisingly easy, nice neat cuts. Only cost $12.00.
 
If you don't have a tile saw, why not use an angle grinder AND water. Water will keep the dust to a minimum, prolong the life of the blade, and give a cleaner cut. Just use a squirt/soda/whatever bottle to apply the water to the brick.
 
Seth22 said:
If you don't have a tile saw, why not use an angle grinder AND water. Water will keep the dust to a minimum, prolong the life of the blade, and give a cleaner cut. Just use a squirt/soda/whatever bottle to apply the water to the brick.
Click to expand...
If you do this apply the water very lightly... just enough to keep the dust down. Otherwise you may cause major problems if the wet dust gets inside the grinder; not to mention the electrical hazard.
 
Thanks for all the great ideas, folks.

After assessing them, I decided to spring for a diamond blade for my circular saw. $24.99 at ACE hardware. Thought I might find other uses for it later, as well. Didn't have access to a wet tile saw, but would have used one if I did.

Set up outside and was surprised at how easy (and dirty) it went. Eye protection and a dust mask were a MUST!

Didn't have to make too many cuts, but a couple long skinny pieces were required on most sides. Here is how it turned out:
 

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Nice. The water really only helps with the dust, it's not required for cutting the duty of fire brick in woodstoves anyway. As I said above- if you need to get into super duty/high alumina brick- then you need something serious!
 
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