Chimney Sweep Problem

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woodburn

Member
Oct 26, 2007
221
Long Island, New York
I went up on the roof to sweep the chimney, but had to abort the mission. I have SS pipe, and when I removed the cap, there is a metal bar blocking the brush from getting in there. I have a metal brush and fiberglass rods which bend a little (bought at Lowes). Do I need a poly brush and super flexible rods to squeeze it in there, or is there some other way to do this. I can't imagine getting down the whole pipe having to work at an angle like that and not being able to brush straight up and down.

Click the link to see a picture of what I'm talking about. The very top and mesh will come off, but that metal bar that the very top screws onto stays on. No screws or anything to remove it. Any ideas?

http://www.fireplaceessentials.com/c4/c58/ICP-Weathershield-Solid-Pack-Metal-Chimney-Caps-p766.html
 
Any chance of cleaning from the bottom up? The flexible rods would probably be needed for that anyway...

And also it begs the question... what did you do last year? Or is this is a new stove?
 
Take the whole cap off and clean the pipe.
 
Can't answer your question of how to get in there BUT with SS liners you should be using a poly brush not a metal brush.

Shari
 
It is a press fit cap that has an inside piece that slides into the inside of the pipe and an outside sleeve that fits over the outside of the pipe. Twist the sucker and pull it off.
 
With a poly brush you should have no problems dodging that bar, it would be easier if you take it off though.
 
I clicked on the link and to the left of the pic it states, "This bottom collar is what pushes down onto the top of the chimney pipe as you are sliding the inside collar (matches the inside diameter of your chimney) into the inner pipe of the chimney." Simply pull the whole thing off and you are good to go. Sounds simple but in reality it may be more difficult, give it try though.
 
Clydesdale- The stove is 2 yrs old. This is my first attempt at doing it myself.

Shari- Good advice about the metal brush and liners, but it's not a liner, its SS chimney pipe.

BrotherBart- Did you mean twist the whole cap (the part that fits over the outside of the pipe), or do you mean the inside piece with the bar? I tried to take that piece with the bar out, but it wont pull up. I can rotate it freely within the pipe, but as for pulling it upward, it won't budge.

Skin-If I just twist and slide the whole cap up, is there some kind of glue type compound I should use when putting it back on? Also, what the heck is holding that darn inner piece with the bar to the inside of the pipe?
 
woodburn said:
Clydesdale- The stove is 2 yrs old. This is my first attempt at doing it myself.

Shari- Good advice about the metal brush and liners, but it's not a liner, its SS chimney pipe.

BrotherBart- Did you mean twist the whole cap (the part that fits over the outside of the pipe), or do you mean the inside piece with the bar? I tried to take that piece with the bar out, but it wont pull up. I can rotate it freely within the pipe, but as for pulling it upward, it won't budge.

Skin-If I just twist and slide the whole cap up, is there some kind of glue type compound I should use when putting it back on? Also, what the heck is holding that darn inner piece with the bar to the inside of the pipe?

Doesn't matter . . . general consensus here is that the poly brushes are better for use on both liners and stainless steel Class A chimney . . . I forget the exact reason (a member posted a very logical and fact-based post on this) . . . I think it had something to do with scouring the inside in a manner that could potentially shorten the lifespan of the Class A chimney.
 
woodburn said:
Clydesdale- The stove is 2 yrs old. This is my first attempt at doing it myself.

Shari- Good advice about the metal brush and liners, but it's not a liner, its SS chimney pipe.

BrotherBart- Did you mean twist the whole cap (the part that fits over the outside of the pipe), or do you mean the inside piece with the bar? I tried to take that piece with the bar out, but it wont pull up. I can rotate it freely within the pipe, but as for pulling it upward, it won't budge.

Skin-If I just twist and slide the whole cap up, is there some kind of glue type compound I should use when putting it back on? Also, what the heck is holding that darn inner piece with the bar to the inside of the pipe?
Would likly just be a compression type connection, may be a little difficult to pull out but not hard at all. No glue needed. All that is stopping it from not blowing off is it's shape, it is round so it does not catch any wind. All that is holding that arm is a little tack weld or or a rivit. I am not an epert but that should be easy enough to figure out. don't be scared of it, take it apart and figure it out. Or go the local hardware stove, ask to lok at chimney caps and then figure out how those go on and you should have a good idea about your own.
 
BrotherBart said:
It is a press fit cap that has an inside piece that slides into the inside of the pipe and an outside sleeve that fits over the outside of the pipe. Twist the sucker and pull it off.

Which end of the screwdriver do I pick up?
 
Pssst.. Hanko's back ;-P
 
Hanko said:
Doing The Dixie Eyed Hustle said:
Pssst.. Hanko's back ;-P

Never Left.


Well, I haven't seen ya in a while, so "hello, good to see you again".


To the OP, I think you can trust the chimney sweep to know the answer, not that BB didn't :)
 
Doing The Dixie Eyed Hustle said:
To the OP, I think you can trust the chimney sweep to know the answer, not that BB didn't :)

I defer to Tom on purt near anything involving soot ma'am.

Trucks, cars, helicopters, computer networks or cheating at cards is another story.
 
BrotherBart said:
Doing The Dixie Eyed Hustle said:
To the OP, I think you can trust the chimney sweep to know the answer, not that BB didn't :)

I defer to Tom on purt near anything involving soot ma'am.

Trucks, cars, helicopters, computer networks or cheating at cards is another story.

I would, too.

Cheatin at cards, ehhh??? Why am I not suprised ;-P

I need chimney measurement advice, I'm off to "my master cylinder" plan thread.
 
Doing The Dixie Eyed Hustle said:
Hanko said:
Doing The Dixie Eyed Hustle said:
Pssst.. Hanko's back ;-P

Never Left.


Well, I haven't seen ya in a while, so "hello, good to see you again".


To the OP, I think you can trust the chimney sweep to know the answer, not that BB didn't :)

I dont think to much about wood in the summer, but I lurk a little. It seems as though everyone comes out of the wood work in the fall, thanks for thinking of me
 
thechimneysweep said:
The metal "hoop" that the top screws onto pivots on its mounting rivets to get out of the way for sweeping. Just push sideways on it.

Thanks for the advice. I'll try again, but last I was up there it didn't seem like I could push it to one side at all. The whole piece could rotate inside the pipe, but wouldn't go up, or to the side, though I didn't really try to get it to go sideways. I'll try pushing it to the side, and if that fails, I'll try to slide the whole cap right off. I can see clear silicone where the cap and pipe meet, so it might not be so easy. Does everyone feel the poly brush is worth buying?
 
Unlike the rest of the hearth.com world I think the metal brush will be just fine in that rigid pipe. As far as the silicone goes, slice around it with a utility knife and it will give up in a heartbeat. Kinda rubbery but just keep at it.

The poly brush line is usually in conversation about a a stainless flex liner. Not a packed rigid liner. And I have it on good authority from somebody that I defer to in all matters sooty that they have been brushing stainless liners, including flex, with steel brushes for twelve years without one liner failure.
 
Well, went up today and indeed it was siliconed on and popped up with enough force. I have a straight chimney run, and when I shone the flashlight down, there was nothing inside but some soot, and a few thin flakes up near the very top and on the underside of the cap. Pretty darn good for 2 and 1/2 years of burning! Can't beat dry wood and hot burns. Thanks to all who helped with this!
 
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