6 inch flue, eight inch chimney

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Go with 1/2 cement board . . . less flex . . . less of a chance the tile/stone will crack or come loose.
 
1/2 " it is on the hearth. thanks. Makes sense on the flexibility factor.

Order being placed today at the dealer for the F500. Got cold feet for a few minutes, wondering if we'll like the side load door vs. the top load we're used to with the VC Defiant Encore. Read a bit on this forum about the top loader Yotul ....Seems the new top Yotul 500 TL has less heat capacity than the F500, and I'm leery of buying first year 'things' as may still have design kinks that need to be worked out.

I checked with the dealer on the damper; he said that local code requires that a damper be installed, and with the double wall pipe needed for clearance requirements, needs to be ordered that way, vs. added later. okay.....another $68 for a pipe with damper.

Looks as though the new stove may end up costing bigger bucks, as wife wants new carpet to match the wood stove......(seems she thinks the 20 year old, "5 year carpet" needs replaced for some reason. it's maddening...how can she always be right :) )

Hey Grommal, good catch on the "out house", lol. :)
 
vkeksm said:
1/2 " it is on the hearth. thanks. Makes sense on the flexibility factor.

Order being placed today at the dealer for the F500. Got cold feet for a few minutes, wondering if we'll like the side load door vs. the top load we're used to with the VC Defiant Encore. Read a bit on this forum about the top loader Yotul ....Seems the new top Yotul 500 TL has less heat capacity than the F500, and I'm leery of buying first year 'things' as may still have design kinks that need to be worked out.

I checked with the dealer on the damper; he said that local code requires that a damper be installed, and with the double wall pipe needed for clearance requirements, needs to be ordered that way, vs. added later. okay.....another $68 for a pipe with damper.

Looks as though the new stove may end up costing bigger bucks, as wife wants new carpet to match the wood stove......(seems she thinks the 20 year old, "5 year carpet" needs replaced for some reason. it's maddening...how can she always be right :) )

Hey Grommal, good catch on the "out house", lol. :)

Random thoughts . . .

Never had a top loader, so I don't miss it . . . but I do know I love the side loading of the Jotul.

Second item . . . if you're going to join the Loyal Legion of Jotul users you need to be able to correctly spell Jotul . . . but not pronoucne it Jo-tul. ;) :)

I'm a bit surprised to hear a requirement for a flue damper . . . seems a bit odd . . . never heard of such a thing until now.

Finally . . . seems like a good deal to me . . . a woodstove for "you" and a new carpet for the "wife."
 
If we are looking to be pronouncing things correctly, FYI, when in Norway, Oslo should be pronounced "oos-lo" not "az-low".
 
Seemed so much more simple to pronounce "Vermont Castings". Hope that this is not the beginning of a complicated relationship with the "Yotul with a J Oos-lo". Stove should be arriving early next week. :). Now if the wife would just make a decision on tile and carpet color we can get this puppy in place and start waking up in the morning to a warm house.
 
vkeksm said:
Seemed so much more simple to pronounce "Vermont Castings". Hope that this is not the beginning of a complicated relationship with the "Yotul with a J Oos-lo". Stove should be arriving early next week. :). Now if the wife would just make a decision on tile and carpet color we can get this puppy in place and start waking up in the morning to a warm house.

A man can call his stove whatever he wants! Congratulations on the new stove
 
Well, the "Jotul with a Y Oos-lo" was delivered today and is currently sitting in the back of my pickup truck in the garage. It's pretty being almost a dark brownish-red, almost same as the old VC Defiant Encore red stove gets when it's hot. Inspection revealed one minor glitch, the front door had a chip out of it....so sent the door back for a replacement. Finalizing the decision on the new tile and carpet colors...only a few more weeks to go til installation is done on the tile, carpet, and stove, ...then break in time. :)
 
When I put mine in three years ago, there was only a bit of burn off smoke from the pipe. None from the stove. What a pleasant surprise. Enjoy your new stove.

Jim
 
Burning question, no pun intended. Am reading through the Jotul technical manual, which interestingly is all in kW, even in the English section. for the F500, the "Nominal heat output is 8,5 kW". Can someone reference me to a magic decoder ring to convert this and other references to Temps and/or BTU's?

Secondly, was comparing the info in the old VC Defiant Encore with the info in the F500 manual. I get it that BTU's may vary based on different conditions, wood type moisture, etc.

The VC DE manual indicates a:
- Range of heat output = 6200-32,000 BTU/hr.
- Max heat output is 47,000 BTU/hr
- Operating at continuous griddle temps of 750 degrees, or higher may cause damage to the stove

For the F500, it is rated at Max 70,000 BTU's/hour. I can find only one reference to what the operating temperature should be kept, and it is listed in the General Manual, under section 8.3, titled "Thermometer". It says, "Persistent overheating of the fireplace (Temperatures of 280 degrees Celcius or more) will hasten the need for replacement parts that are excluded by Warranty."

Conversion from Celcius to Fahrenheit is: 280 C = 560 Farenheit, suggesting not to consistently burn the F500 over 560 degrees Farenheight. Normal max for the VE DC - 750 degrees F, while the F500 is 560 degress 'max'. Okay, well how does an F500 achieve 70, 000 Max heat output, and the DE VC has a Max of 47,000 BTU output, when consideration is given to the operating temps? Trying to compare apples to apples, i.e., VC DE to F500. Is there somehow more BTU heat output from the F500, even though the max operating temp listed is lower than the VC DE? Thanks in advance.
 
vkeksm said:
Burning question, no pun intended. Am reading through the Jotul technical manual, which interestingly is all in kW, even in the English section. for the F500, the "Nominal heat output is 8,5 kW". Can someone reference me to a magic decoder ring to convert this and other references to Temps and/or BTU's?

Secondly, was comparing the info in the old VC Defiant Encore with the info in the F500 manual. I get it that BTU's may vary based on different conditions, wood type moisture, etc.

The VC DE manual indicates a:
- Range of heat output = 6200-32,000 BTU/hr.
- Max heat output is 47,000 BTU/hr
- Operating at continuous griddle temps of 750 degrees, or higher may cause damage to the stove

For the F500, it is rated at Max 70,000 BTU's/hour. I can find only one reference to what the operating temperature should be kept, and it is listed in the General Manual, under section 8.3, titled "Thermometer". It says, "Persistent overheating of the fireplace (Temperatures of 280 degrees Celcius or more) will hasten the need for replacement parts that are excluded by Warranty."

Conversion from Celcius to Fahrenheit is: 280 C = 560 Farenheit, suggesting not to consistently burn the F500 over 560 degrees Farenheight. Normal max for the VE DC - 750 degrees F, while the F500 is 560 degress 'max'. Okay, well how does an F500 achieve 70, 000 Max heat output, and the DE VC has a Max of 47,000 BTU output, when consideration is given to the operating temps? Trying to compare apples to apples, i.e., VC DE to F500. Is there somehow more BTU heat output from the F500, even though the max operating temp listed is lower than the VC DE? Thanks in advance.
You must have somehow received a stove that was supposed to go to Europe or something. My manual says it's for US and Canada. Temps are in F, outputs are in BTUs and dimensions are in inches and cm. Anyway, you can download the manual from Jotul's website at http://www.jotul.com/FileArchive/Technical Documentation/Wood Stoves/Jøtul F 500 Oslo/Manual_F_500_USA_P12_211009.pdf.
 
Guys coming tomorrow to lay the tile. In considering the weight of the Oslo. hoping tha 1/2 cement board, with porcelain tile on top will be sufficient. Any experience/thoughts on that? Wondering also, if any issues with the tile cracking where the Oslo legs sit. Any thoughts appreciated.
 
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