is this chimney cap installed correctly?

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par0thead151

Feeling the Heat
Jul 26, 2009
494
south eastern wisconsin
it was shifted to the side where one corner was not covering the opening, for all summer.
i was on the roof looking at my flashing(in need of repair) and noticed the chimney cap.
should the chimney cap be air tight or at least caulked on?

photo.jpg


photo2.jpg
 
Yes. The way that is done, it looks like a great opportunity for wind driven rain to enter. In the least it should get a thick bead of silicone adhesive under it. I don't like the bent down corners either. Instead I prefer to do a notch cut to create a tab, then fold down each side to create a drip edge, well below the top of the flue. The folded over tab can then be pop riveted to the other edge for a neat finish.
 
BeGreen said:
Yes. The way that is done, it looks like a great opportunity for wind driven rain to enter. In the least it should get a thick bead of silicone adhesive under it. I don't like the bent down corners either. Instead I prefer to do a notch cut to create a tab, then fold down each side to create a drip edge, well below the top of the flue. The folded over tab can then be pop riveted to the other edge for a neat finish.
Click to expand...

i had a professional shop install this insert.
i am debating calling them about it, as if i have them do it, they will use the cheapest caulk known to man, whereas if i do it, i can do it right.
im just kinda hesitant to climb around on the top of my chimney(thats why i hired out the install)
 
Yes, I hear you. Now tell me, who took the pictures? :) Be careful and safe if you choose to do the repair.
 
BeGreen said:
Yes, I hear you. Now tell me, who took the pictures? :) Be careful and safe if you choose to do the repair.
Click to expand...

i took the pictures...
as i am contemplating redoing the step flashing and capping around my chimney as it is leaking.
i am not afraid of heights, i just relay dislike the fact that one slip will mean falling off the roof. if i do the work i will get a rope and climbing harness so i can tether my self to something near my work area.
roof.jpg





roof2.jpg
 
Wow, a professional shop did that?? Looks like something Homer Simpson did; and you wonder why people like doing things themselves rather than calling a "pro". I would second your thoughts of just doing it yourself, I wouldn't trust them to do it right.
 
Just loosen the band holding the cap on and take it off. Then loosen the band holding the top plate to the liner and lift it off. Run a thick bead of silicone caulk around the top of the tile and then put the top plate back on and push it down good and tighten the clamp. Put the cap back on and you are done.
 
BrotherBart said:
Just loosen the band holding the cap on and take it off. Then loosen the band holding the top plate to the liner and lift it off. Run a thick bead of silicone caulk around the top of the tile and then put the top plate back on and push it down good and tighten the clamp. Put the cap back on and you are done.
Click to expand...

any type of caulk will work?
i assume it gets quite hot up there?
 
par0thead151 said:
BrotherBart said:
Just loosen the band holding the cap on and take it off. Then loosen the band holding the top plate to the liner and lift it off. Run a thick bead of silicone caulk around the top of the tile and then put the top plate back on and push it down good and tighten the clamp. Put the cap back on and you are done.
Click to expand...

any type of caulk will work?
i assume it gets quite hot up there?
Click to expand...

"thick bead of silicone caulk"
 
BrotherBart said:
par0thead151 said:
BrotherBart said:
Just loosen the band holding the cap on and take it off. Then loosen the band holding the top plate to the liner and lift it off. Run a thick bead of silicone caulk around the top of the tile and then put the top plate back on and push it down good and tighten the clamp. Put the cap back on and you are done.
Click to expand...

any type of caulk will work?
i assume it gets quite hot up there?
Click to expand...

"thick bead of silicone caulk"
Click to expand...

roger that.
thanks for the clarity.
i just want to make sure i do it right the first time...
i really dislike being on the roof
lol

would it be beneficial to cut and bend the edges of the cap to make it more of a form fit to the masonry?
 
That flashing work around that chimney is pretty bad... and yes caulk that cap on!
 
Bubbavh said:
That flashing work around that chimney is pretty bad... and yes caulk that cap on!
Click to expand...

i should look up the builder and see if they are still in business.
i would be ashamed to put my name on work like that flashing...
 
par0thead151 said:
Bubbavh said:
That flashing work around that chimney is pretty bad... and yes caulk that cap on!
Click to expand...

i should look up the builder and see if they are still in business.
i would be ashamed to put my name on work like that flashing...
Click to expand...

If they are check their rating.

http://www.bbb.org/
 
I don't choose to use those top plates too often, but when I do I trim them to cover the tile and then silicone it down and the seams.
 
2 things:

1. the flashing around your chimney is HORRIBLE. that should be of more concern than the top plate.

2. the top plate would be fine using any silicone (which they shop you hired out did not do).

for the record, I like to cut my top plates to overlap the flue tile by at least an inch on all sides. Then (after cutting a notch on each corner), I fold it all down w/ a hammer and vise grips so that it is bent inwards towards the tile at more than 90 degrees so it grips the outside of the tile. This allows for a friction tight fit at the top. What I place it back on the tile, I apply a thick bead of silicone on top of tile 1st to seal it / hold it all down.
 
A proper mason, particulary one who builds chimneys can remove that brown excuse for flashing, remove the existing step flashing and grind out mortar for new flashing. A roofer can replace the step flashing on the roof and bend the chimney flashing down making a nice weathertight seal. I can't stand hack work. Worse is when good people get hosed by so-called "professionals". In this economy there should be some good work to be had at a good price. Have them take pictures when they finish the work.

BTW the mortar work looks to be in good shape on the chimney, and the roof looks decent. I just can't understand why the cover up flashing is so hack.
 
fishingpol said:
A proper mason, particulary one who builds chimneys can remove that brown excuse for flashing, remove the existing step flashing and grind out mortar for new flashing. A roofer can replace the step flashing on the roof and bend the chimney flashing down making a nice weathertight seal. I can't stand hack work. Worse is when good people get hosed by so-called "professionals". In this economy there should be some good work to be had at a good price. Have them take pictures when they finish the work.

BTW the mortar work looks to be in good shape on the chimney, and the roof looks decent. I just can't understand why the cover up flashing is so hack.
Click to expand...

im not sure either.
my good friend went to college for construction management and he subsequently worked as a roofer for 3 years during the summer. is 2-3 years enough experience for him to do a good job on the flashing? I am not opposed to hiring it out if that is what is required, as water damage is not something to mess with. however i hate getting hosed and having substandard work done.

i will be calling the place that sold me the insert and did the install, as i complained about my top cap looking crooked(that should have been a dead giveaway to them thats something was wrong) last winter. they claimed that someone drove by looked at it from the ground and said it was A-ok

seeing the condition of my flashing and the half assed job on the cap, reinforces my conviction that if i want something done right i have to do it myself. i will not even get into the job that house painters do. it will take me close to 3 years to paint my house but it will be done right and last probably 2-3C longer than other homes done by "pro's" do.

thank you everyone for the tips, i will see about getting that fireplace cap done tomorrow when it is light outside.
 
par0thead151 said:
Bubbavh said:
That flashing work around that chimney is pretty bad... and yes caulk that cap on!
Click to expand...

i should look up the builder and see if they are still in business.
i would be ashamed to put my name on work like that flashing...
Click to expand...

Was his name Goober? Cuz it sure looks like he goobered that sucker on. Is this an attempted repair cover over the original step flashing on the chimney?
 
BeGreen said:
par0thead151 said:
Bubbavh said:
That flashing work around that chimney is pretty bad... and yes caulk that cap on!
Click to expand...

i should look up the builder and see if they are still in business.
i would be ashamed to put my name on work like that flashing...
Click to expand...

Was his name Goober? Cuz it sure looks like he goobered that sucker on. Is this an attempted repair cover over the original step flashing on the chimney?
Click to expand...

im prey sure it is from the original builder.,
house was built in 2000 and i am the second owner. no roof work has been done since i bought it 4 years ago.
 
It looks like the liner and cap are of good quality. I'm wondering why a manufactured terra cotta top plate was not installed. I just put one up with my liner system and it has stainless pointed screws to grip the flue tile. I siliconed it anyways under the cap. The drip edge was at least an 1" to an 1 1/2" down from the flat top. It wasn't that expensive either.

If you have a long extension ladder, you can separate it and put a ridge hook onto one length and hook it over the ridge. The ladder can sit flat on the roof and it will help make the work safer.

If your friend has experience with roofing he could do the flashing on the chimney. Look up on a few websites or a roofing book at a library to familiarize yourself with flashing. I would remove the metal and see how bad it is underneath.

I hope the step flashing on the roof is in good shape under the brown metal. Sometimes the problem looks worse than it is, and an inexperienced person made the situation worse by trying to repair it themselves. The leak may have been minor, and that piece of metal was the fix-all that did not work. Even a lifted nail can let water migrate down into the living space.
 
I would definitely contact the "professional" installer and at least log a complaint . . . ask for some money back on their shoddy work, then fix it yourself. You paid for a service they did not provide.

At the very least you could call them back out to fix it then stand next to the installer while he is doing the work and be the boss for a while. I understand DIY and do almost everything that way around my house, but if I paid for something I would want to get what I paid for even if I had to babysit the contractor to make sure they were doing it right.
 
I'd certainly show them your closeup photos. They can't ignore that shoddy work, as they could have on a drive-by.
 
DanCorcoran said:
I'd certainly show them your closeup photos. They can't ignore that shoddy work, as they could have on a drive-by.
Click to expand...

well i was on the roof again today ****shudders***
and put some tar caulk down on the flashing, then re nailed it down, and tar'ed over the nail heads.
everything was going well until i got to the last foot or so. the nails would not take like they did at the top.
that leads me to believe that the wood below is rotten? if so, that is not good!
i can see a slight indent in the roof where the sound it makes is more of a dull wack instead of the usual hammer and nail hitting wood noise. the area is also not as firm as the areas surrounding it.
imk thinking that it is time to call a roofer to take a look at it.

and as for the chimney cap, i will be calling the installer tomorrow and telling them they need to come finish the job.
would a better cap be preferred over the one they have on my chimney?
if so what are they called?
thanks again for all the help.
 
[quote author="fishingpol" date="1287466046"]It looks like the liner and cap are of good quality. I'm wondering why a manufactured terra cotta top plate was not installed. I just put one up with my liner system and it has stainless pointed screws to grip the flue tile. I siliconed it anyways under the cap. The drip edge was at least an 1" to an 1 1/2" down from the flat top. It wasn't that expensive either.

Terra cotta top plate is one option that they put on liner systems. If you can match one to fit your liner, you will be better off. They can be found on-line or your installer may be able to get one to match your set up.

As far as the nails not holding, it could be that the roof plywood or oriented strand board if you have it has rotted a bit from a leak. If the majority of the flashing is down tight, you can cut a piece of aluminum step flashing to slide under the shingle with the nail hole in it. Put asphalt sealer under the piece to hold it in place and it should prevent water from entering the nail hole. I don't think I would rip up the area for just one soft spot. Do you have access to the attic to see what is happening underneath?
 
fishingpol said:
fishingpol said:
It looks like the liner and cap are of good quality. I'm wondering why a manufactured terra cotta top plate was not installed. I just put one up with my liner system and it has stainless pointed screws to grip the flue tile. I siliconed it anyways under the cap. The drip edge was at least an 1" to an 1 1/2" down from the flat top. It wasn't that expensive either.

Terra cotta top plate is one option that they put on liner systems. If you can match one to fit your liner, you will be better off. They can be found on-line or your installer may be able to get one to match your set up.

As far as the nails not holding, it could be that the roof plywood or oriented strand board if you have it has rotted a bit from a leak. If the majority of the flashing is down tight, you can cut a piece of aluminum step flashing to slide under the shingle with the nail hole in it. Put asphalt sealer under the piece to hold it in place and it should prevent water from entering the nail hole. I don't think I would rip up the area for just one soft spot. Do you have access to the attic to see what is happening underneath?
Click to expand...

no access to the attic. it is a cathedral ceiling in that area so no attic so to speak.
Click to expand...
 
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