I hope I don't have a unique situation and someone can help me out. We are finishing up the install of our Clayton 1600 in the basement. Our house is very old, 120+ and the basement is basically a 6' tall rock wall room. Do to height clearance we are using double wall insulated, better safe than sorry. I built a chimney on the outside of the house, using chimney block. A clay tile comes through the rock wall from the outside and sticks out into the basement. My intent was to use a black pipe to insulated adapter to attach the clay tile to the insulated. I was going to mortar the adapter into the end of the tile so I would have a nice tight joint to the insulated. Do to the way these adapters are intended to be used they are supposed to be going the other way. Which means I would have to put all my pipe backward to the stove. Where I intended on using an insulated "T" with a cap on the other end(for easy cleaning of the horizontal run). The "T" would also be backward and because of this I would also have to fabricate some kind of cap to go on the other end now since it does not come with one for that side. Any problem with doing this? Or should I just not use the adapter and mortar a piece of black pipe in the tile and hook up my double wall to that? It just doesn't seem like you can get as much of a joint together going that route. Thanks for the advice everyone.
Problem with using chimney pipe backward? (Updated with pics)
- Thread starter javier
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EJL923
Minister of Fire
I must say I am quite confused, but I will take a stab at answering the heading of your post. The reason you dont want to use pipe backwards is becuase of any type of rain or condensation. Say that pipe was used as a water drain, the water would come out of the seams instead of funnel into the next pipe.
Including creosote.EJL923 said:
But I think plenty of people put pipe in backwards, by mistake, without consequence.
I am interested in what you consider "backwards". Many people install the pipe "backwards" because they think that is the way to do it. 
The bottom piece should fit OVER (outside) the piece above it. Anything that is going to drip stays INSIDE the pipe that way.
Not trying to insult - just clarifying.
The bottom piece should fit OVER (outside) the piece above it. Anything that is going to drip stays INSIDE the pipe that way.
Not trying to insult - just clarifying.
oconnor
Minister of Fire
Another point to note is that double wall smoke pipe "looks" backwards on the outside, but the internal pipe fits male end down into the recieving pipe. The outside looks like the pipe is reversed when compared to single wall.
That said Javier, I still can't picture the situation. Posting a picture will help.
That said Javier, I still can't picture the situation. Posting a picture will help.
tiber
Feeling the Heat
Yeah I'm not sure how you'll get this into your stove. It only fits together one way, unless you somehow crimp the end of that last link, it's not going to fit into the outlet of the stove.
We can usually spot pipe installed upside down right away by the creosote dribbles on it. It is pretty unsightly. Don't forget the primary plumber's rule, gravity works and chit flows downhill.
DanCorcoran
Minister of Fire
Backwoods Savage
Minister of Fire
Sorry, I guess I assumed since I have been looking at it and thinking about it for the past few weeks that everyone else has. To clarify I have attached a few pics. The T will be going into the top of the stove, which direction it faces wont matter necessarily at that point. Then we will be using the double wall only in a horizontal application. It will then be somehow going into the clay tile that is coming out of the wall in the picture. I wouldn't think that the condensation/creosote issue will make any difference in a horizontal application as it would all be resting to the "bottom" of the pipe anyways. The hole under the clay tile will be a cleanout for the block chimney, the closed end of the T will be the cleanout for the horizontal SS section. Clear as mud I hope. Thanks for all the advise so far. Hopefully this helps to figure some of the confusion out.
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Oy, is that a stove?
That looks like a long horizontal run. Smoke likes to go uphill. What will be the pitch of the length of that run and what will be the rise per foot? Double wall would be needed for sure. I would also keep it sheilded from the refrigerant lines. The cleanout hole will need a sealed door.
That looks like a long horizontal run. Smoke likes to go uphill. What will be the pitch of the length of that run and what will be the rise per foot? Double wall would be needed for sure. I would also keep it sheilded from the refrigerant lines. The cleanout hole will need a sealed door.
Still more work to do that is for sure. I am going to make a sealed door on the cleanout below the tile. What is proper rise per inch per foot horizontal? Unfortunatly there is not a lot of room in the basement to move the furnace around too much.
Everything I am reading is saying rise is min. 1/4" per foot. I can easily do this. The furnace isn't put back together yet and can still be moved around a bit, but it can't be that much closer than it is right now.
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