How far can I drop Class A into my home? (cathedral install)

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120inna55

120inna55

Member
Oct 21, 2010
91
Athens, TX
www.hilton-house.net
I'm all set to perform my DIY cathedral ceiling install of an Englander wood stove with double-wall stove pipe.

We ended up to too many pieces of the chimney pipe (class A, I believe its called).

I have a single fixed length of double-wall stove pipe as well as a large telescoping piece. For simplicity of install, and since we have plenty of class A, I'd like to just use the telescoping length and omit the fixed length. This will require bringing the class A down through the support box about 2.5 ft. to meet the adjustable pipe (with adapter).

Is there anything technically wrong with dropping the class A that far into the house?

My wife seems to think that leaving the class A unpainted as a shiny silver would be "interesting" aesthetically, while I suspect it'll look better painted to match the stovepipe and support box, but we'll see.

First and foremost, is this method allowed.

Secondly, what are your opinions and is my rationale sound?

Thanks.
 
Doesn't the support box "support" the class A pipe? If so, how are you going to get it through the support box without modifying the box? I'd recommend doing it the correct way and just return or sell the extra class A pipe.
 
You can support some chimney systems from the top but I think you are still required to connect it at the bottom to some kind of framing and be enclosed. To maintain the UL rating, you should consult the supplier. What are you trying to accomplish? Sounds like you have enough stovepipe to do it the way it is intended anyway?
 
pgmr said:
Doesn't the support box "support" the class A pipe? If so, how are you going to get it through the support box without modifying the box? I'd recommend doing it the correct way and just return or sell the extra class A pipe.
Click to expand...

By design, the class A is supposed to extend at least a short distance beyond the box. A band around the class A is what keeps it from sliding all the way through. If it is supposed to extend a couple inches south of the box anyway, what's wrong with it extending 2 ft ? My question is simple: Is there a limit as to how far it can extend into the house?

SolarAndWood said:
...What are you trying to accomplish? Sounds like you have enough stovepipe to do it the way it is intended anyway?
Click to expand...

It just seems like it will be much easier after having the support box and chimney lengths installed, that using only the telescoping piece will make it quite simple to just slide it up to the class A without having the fixed length to fool with.
 
What brand of pipe are you using? With Simpson and I think Selkirk, the class A pipe terminates at the support box. It's actually supported by a mating fitting in the support box. It can't go through it. The female end of the class A pipe mates with the male fitting of the support box. The part that extends into the room below where the stove pipe connects is part of the support box, not the class A.
 

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If you've got the pieces in hand and the mounting arrangement allows it, then I'd say go for it.

Many setups have basement stoves with class A going through walls, enclosed chases and, yes, open areas.

My garage stove chimney exits through the wall - I have at least 2' sticking into the room.

The only negatives I can see are:

1: reduced surface area for heating the room (might be a positive if you have any potential for excess creosote buildup)
2: Aesthetics - but it sounds like you (or more importantly, your wife) may consider this a good "look"


Don
 
BeGreen said:
What brand of pipe are you using? With Simpson and I think Selkirk, the class A pipe terminates at the support box. It's actually supported by a mating fitting in the support box. It can't go through it. The female end of the class A pipe mates with the male fitting of the support box. The part that extends into the room below where the stove pipe connects is part of the support box, not the class A.
Click to expand...

I'm no expert, so I appreciate the responses, but I must respectfully disagree with you with regard to Selkirk. My support kit and chimney lengths are all Selkirk. The class A slides freely through the support box. The installer is to apply a support band around the class A. The location of the support band determines how deep the chimney drops into the house. Then the stovepipe adapter transitions the class A to the stovepipe. That much I'm clear on. I've attached a diagram from the manual. The manual does not specify a limit as to how far the chimney can extend into the house, so I'm starting to suspect there is no limit.
 

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~*~vvv~*~ said:
overinsulated chimni can result in an overfiring stove
Click to expand...

Please elaborate on how this statement applies to my situation. I will still be using an almost fully extended 68" length of double-wall stovepipe to connect the class A to the stove, so it's not going to be all class A from stove to raincap.

Interestingly, the reason we ended up with more class A than we needed is because when my wife bought this stuff two years ago, the sales person at Lowe's didn't know what he was talking about. He sold us enough class A to go from stove all the way up, citing they didn't have double-wall stove pipe, but that the "class A was even better." Ha! I suppose theoretically we could've done that, but just from an aesthetic point of view, the larger pipe would've dwarfed the stove itself. We decided to keep the extra lengths.
 
Now that IS interesting. I've always seen the Class A terminate at the interior of the support box with a band and the connector pipe adapter. Very interesting indeed!
 
While I've never seen this done I can see no reason that it could not be done. However, I am not so sure it would look all that good but I do understand what you are trying to do. Good luck.
 
No experience with Selkirk.. but Simpson most definatly terminates at the support box.

Near as I can see from the diagram, should work, as long as no more than 1 section needs to be below the box... I seriously doubt it would be wise to "hang" class A from itself below the support box.

That said.. seems you could just take back the extra class A length(s) and get more stove pipe...? IME Lowe's has been pretty good about returns..

and BTW, the easiest way to understand what ~*~vvv~*~ has to say is to not try. I just use ignore, only see his posts when someone quotes him. I don't know if it's my poor English skills or his, (I am an ESL person) but I most often don't/can't figure out what his point is or how it relates to the threads he posts in..
 
Thanks for the posted picture 120, I checked the Selkirk platinum docs for this and that option is not listed for this pipe. But I totally believe that you have a different animal. That's why I was careful to say "I think" Selkirk. If they have a line of pipe that allows the option you are showing, that is good to know. What line of Selkirk is this?

Technically, what you are proposing should be fine as long as the pipe is firmly supported and the manufacturer's pipe is not altered.

As for the pook comment, I deleted it. This is nonsense and doesn't help or affect your installation in any way.
 
I use Selkirk. On one of my stoves, the MetalBestos comes through the ceiling and all the way to the stove, within a foot or so. Works great, been that way for 25+ yr. Looks fine to me, it's the difference between looking at black pipe or stainless pipe. Big deal. On my other two stoves, I did it more of the standard way but still the MetalBestos extends into the room more than a foot. I like the extra protection for the wood paneling of the ceiling anyway. Go for it.
 
Dakotas Dad said:
...I seriously doubt it would be wise to "hang" class A from itself below the support box....
Click to expand...

Oh, no, I never intended to do that. With regard to the protruding length of class A, there will definitely be more above the ceiling than below. And then stove pipe adapter and stove pipe immediately south of that protruding piece.

(I've run into a snag so far today. I didn't have the correct length screws for building the framing for the support box. Of all the crap I have, it figures I wouldn't have what I needed. My wife has headed into town to get the screws. It's threatening rain here in East Texas, so I may just get the support box done and then have to cover it all up until tomorrow.)
 
120inna55 said:
Dakotas Dad said:
...I seriously doubt it would be wise to "hang" class A from itself below the support box....
Click to expand...

Oh, no, I never intended to do that. With regard to the protruding length of class A, there will definitely be more above the ceiling than below. And then stove pipe adapter and stove pipe immediately south of that protruding piece...
Click to expand...

For the record, just a few paragraphs earlier in the manual, I found this: "The SuperVent/SuperPro Cathedral Ceiling Support will support a total of 38 feet of chimney of which 15 feet of chimney can be suspended below the support."
 

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Thanks for posting that 120. Learn something every day.
 
Yep, thanks. I guessed that was the product and downloaded the manual for some nighttime reading.
 
sure, this can be done, ive seen it used in the tahoe area on 12-18/12 pitch ceilings
selkirk makes all the parts needed
use the roof support section 6t-rsp to hang the pipe, and the adjustable pitched ceiling plate 6t-pcpaj and decorative collar

and another possibe,
the cath ceiling support lit says " supports up to 30' of chimney (up to 15' may be below the support)"
though i've never seen this application before
 
120inna55 said:
120inna55 said:
Dakotas Dad said:
...I seriously doubt it would be wise to "hang" class A from itself below the support box....
Click to expand...

Oh, no, I never intended to do that. With regard to the protruding length of class A, there will definitely be more above the ceiling than below. And then stove pipe adapter and stove pipe immediately south of that protruding piece...
Click to expand...

For the record, just a few paragraphs earlier in the manual, I found this: "The SuperVent/SuperPro Cathedral Ceiling Support will support a total of 38 feet of chimney of which 15 feet of chimney can be suspended below the support."
Click to expand...

Good find.. don't know if I would do it/like it.. but at least now we know it can be done with that pipe..
 
Well, I've got the chimney installed. A huge storm blew through right about the time I'd finished framing out the support box and installing it. I had my metal roofing panels pulled, and of course the hole in the roof. Rain just poured into my house. Sheet rock falling. The metal roof gets slick when it's wet because it has a nice layer of pollen on it. The sky lit up with lightning while I'm holding on to my shiny stainless chimney. The cordless drill is getting water logged along with my electric skill saw. Meanwhile tree tops are doing pirouettes. I managed to make it inside without falling. I waited about 15 minutes while the lightning subsided, but the rain continued to dump into my house. I had to finish the job, and so I did. What a day! Did you know you can't caulk in the rain. I did not know that!

I'll finish the stove pipe part tomorrow and will eventually post some pics. I think I'm going to like the little bit of exposed chimney in the living space, and I believe I'll leave it silver. I don't know why, but it does add an interesting flair to the installation.
 
That is how mine is. Is was pro-installed. My support box doesn't come through the ceiling though, all I have that shows is is a square trim plate.
Only thing they did with my setup is used stove paint and made the stainless part black to match the rest.
 
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