Who seals their stove pipe joints?

I've used high temp black sealer on mine.

I have never done this. Mind letting me know the reason to do this?

I only seal where the pipe goes down into the collar coming off the stove and where it connects to the T going into my chimney. All other joints are just together with 3 screws.

Years ago this was absolutely critical. Now that the quality of the pipe is much better with tighter fitting joints it is not as much of a critical issue, but still highly recommended. The joints in your exhaust are "weak points". It is possible to get smoke leakage from them and then smoke into the home. You should always seal your joints with RTV silicone and foil tape to ensure a solid seal. Simply stated it is for the safety of you and your home. Kinda of like the seat belt in your car, it's not something you have to rely upon regularly, but when you need it if it is not already in place it is too late.

Don't use silicone on wood stove pipe joints, it will just melt. I rub a little furnace cement around the female end and insert the male end and wipe off excess. It will help draft, you want a tight seal, it's kind a like sucking through a straw with a hole in it.

I seal the joints. Always have. Furnace cement is cheap. It costs so little and takes so little time to do, so why not. Then put the screws in place and you can rest easy.

Do you even seal the joints where you disassemble the thing for cleaning (typically the
connection to the stove and one other), assuming you use this method for cleaning
your flue ?

Todd said:

Don't use silicone on wood stove pipe joints, it will just melt.

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There IS a high-temperature RTV sold at auto-parts stores for gaskets. I used it to replace my faulty
(wound backwards) thermostat. I think it's rated for 65-degrees or so. I doubt that's good enough for
stovepipe though.

Yup, the red Permatex is good for 650F. I have used it on 2 stroke mufflers without problems.

I've heard of guys using it to hold stove gaskets in place . I'm not sure about the flue... I think the wall temps are probably under 600 but the temp of the flue gases could be hotter?

Rusty, we don't have to disassemble anything to clean. Just remove the bottom cap on the tee, clean and put cap back on. We have a horizontal section from the stove through the wall and into the tee. It is simple to clean that and typically there is very little need to clean it so it does not get done very often. About all that gets in there is a little fly ash. But if I did have to take it apart, then I would re-seal it every time.

What a timely post.
I reinstalled my stove about 6 weeks ago, no stove joint seal. Just now took the lighter to the joints, and what do you know, the flame got sucked in slightly in a couple spots.
Guess I know what I'll be doing when the stove cools down.
Will this affect draft + or -? I've seen a bit more smoke not really wanting to exit the stove via the flue on startup recently.

If draft is marginal, then sealing the joints will improve performance. If a tall chimney, and a strong draft, no need to use cement. I cemented my joints, because with our short chimeny and shoulder season, more draft really helps get things started.

formula_pilot said:

If draft is marginal, then sealing the joints will improve performance. If a tall chimney, and a strong draft, no need to use cement. I cemented my joints, because with our short chimeny and shoulder season, more draft really helps get things started.

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I agree, i just redid my single wall pipe. I had some cheap snap together pipe from a local stove shop that i replaced with Elmers pipe. The Elmers pipe is a lot tighter and i sealed all the joints and i have a much better draft now.

johnstra said:

Just curious how many of you use furnace cement or other means to seal your stove pipe joints and if you think it makes a big difference. I've never done it but I'm considering it now. Does it improve draft? Other reasons for doing it?
-john

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In my quest to figure out the issue with the Intrepid last year I sealed the pipe joints.

I seal single-wall joints when I see a gap, though I'm pretty sure they would get filled shortly anyway - most of the creosote buildup seems to happen in the singlewall pipe.

I sealed mine at the stove collar,not a very tight fit. I haven't noticed any change in draft but haven't burned but e few days since it was done.