Ideas / Materials needed for header post, to be located next to new stove chimney liner tee - with p

Hi Folks,

I have installed a new, insulated 6" solid SS liner in the brick chimney, complete with a new hole in the masonary for the tee and new stove location. (old location was cookstove in kitchen, around corner).

We have also ripped out the wall that used to separate the kitchen from the dining room (will be using dining room as new living room / stove room).

I have a temporary wall up, to support the above weight, and plan on installing two 2"x10", as a header, to carry the load, and let me remove the temporary wall. Distance is about 11 ft.
I had planned on using two 2x4s as jack studs ( at each end), and one more on each side to run up the sides of the 2x10s, on each end.

My problem is that the jack studs would be too close to the chimney tee, and I am now considering if I can use non-combustible materials for the jack post, next to the tee, suchs as a steel jack post, covered up with steel studs, and cement board????

Ths issue is that I had figured I could have the studs right next to the chimney, as my insulated liner allows me zero clearance to combustibles....But, I forgot about the actual clearance necessary to the (hot) chimney tee!!

Even if I use a steel post, I suppose I could not even paint any cement board covering it, unless I was approx 18" away??

Edit - I had believed that I required 18" clearance to combustibles, from the tee / stovepipe - but I now believe that is for single wall pipe.

I am hoping I can use something like the below masonry adapter, that would allow me to attach double stove pipe to the liner, reducing clearance requirements to 6", I believe.

Is it then possible to connect single wall pipe to the double wall, likely at the elbow or below, so I can get more radiant heat from the pipe (once clear of combustibles)?Selkirk DSP Double-Wall Black Stovepipe Masonry Adaptor - For Wood Burning Stoves
Every vent installation is different. That's why Selkirk offers this handy DSP Double-Wall Black Stovepipe Masonry Adaptor. With this venting accessory you can connect DSP Stovepipe directly to a standard masonry chimney or a masonry chimney lined with a SuperPro venting system.

PS. I plan on leaving the exposed chimney brick, so the only combustible nearby would be the jack post, or paint on cement board, around a jackpost.

Any advice would be appreciated!!


Allows DSP Stovepipe to be installed through a masonry chimney wall
For connecting directly to a masonry chimney or to a SuperPro lined chimney
.015" stainless steel inner liner with 26-gauge steel outer wall
6" clearance from combustibles
Scratch-resistant black finish
Available in two diameters
Lifetime warranty
UL Listed
Dimensions:

6"
6" inner diameter with 6.5" outer diameter
11.75" H x 10" W
8"
8" inner diameter with 8.5" outer diameter
11.75" H x 12" W

Pyro - Thanks for the input. I am in Canada, and believe that all I need is to pass a WETT certified inspection of the stove and the install.
The chimney was cleaned on the inside, and an insulated liner was installed, per manufacturer's instructions, which allow zero clearance to combustibles, adjacent to the masonry.
You mentioned angle iron and fireplace opening... juts to clarify, it is not, and was never a fireplace. There is an old masonry chimney on the left (in picture) and the newer chimney on the right, where you can see the tee coming out of the masonry. I will certainly put cement / proper material around the tee once I have chosen the type of connector that will be connecting to the tee.

If I have missunderstood, please feel free to explain further!! I apprciate the help!

BeFreen - I will get some pics next weekend, but won't be there till then. Thanks!

I can really put it on either side of the tee, but not too far away, as it will not line up with a decent spot on the other end. I could go at least 6" to the right of the tee (past the temp wall you see in the pic), but anymore will start to get away from the center of the room, and the idea is to still support any loads from up above.

Hey Brent, thanks for the advice.

- I will have to check to see how much I can move the new beam, to one side or the other, without missing the joist joints, if there are any.
The house is only 20 ft wide, and 26 ft long, and has a 13:12 pitch roof. My uncle-in-law?? is an experienced carpenter, - him and another carpenter both felt the od wall (and new beam) are not holding much weight, based on the small size of the house, and the roof loads being transferred to the outside walls.
- Good point about the firm foundation needed for the posts - I will look into that. I did actually build a two post system bridged at the top, to support a new beam in my camp, which is only a foot less wide, and had beams spanning 19 ft, without any support in the middle. (Both buildings are over 100 years old, small buildings with very steep roofs).

- I will not be getting a building permit, as I am just doing some minor renovations < $5000.

I will likely stop by a stove place this week, to see what options are there to connect to the tee (single vs double wall) and what clearances they require.