Best "Tip" you've learned here?

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Make the little V out of aluminum foil to put on the "right " side of the stove top thermometer needle. This wll show you how hot the stove got while you were away, or during overnight burn .
 
BrotherBart said:
That or in a N/S loader putting two splits about an inch or two apart in the center loaded N/S, a piece of Super Cedar between them and angling a split over the valley in the middle. Light and relax for the show.

Bingo. Ironically I first tried this in the E/W loading Castine. I just used some shorter splits and chunk wood I had available. In the T6 it is almost silly easy. My wife thinks it's magic. Works even with just newspaper and no SuperCedar.
 
These are great tips! I just learned about the "Tunnel of Love" for the first time. Well the term anyway. I'll re-phrase it when I give the daughter burning instructions this year.
 
BeGreen said:
BrotherBart said:
That or in a N/S loader putting two splits about an inch or two apart in the center loaded N/S, a piece of Super Cedar between them and angling a split over the valley in the middle. Light and relax for the show.

Bingo. Ironically I first tried this in the E/W loading Castine. I just used some shorter splits and chunk wood I had available. In the T6 it is almost silly easy. My wife thinks it's magic. Works even with just newspaper and no SuperCedar.

WHEW! thats a relief. I thought we might have to put a pg13 rating on this thread.
 
Top-down fire.

Not because I'll ever use it in my stove, but because the explanation of why it works so well was like lifting a veil from my thinking in other areas. Thanks go to BrotherBart for that. ;-)
 
Since joining this forum I have bought a moisture meter and a stove top thermometer.
 
BeGreen said:
Starting fires with the tunnel of love. Starting fires with big splits is child's play now.

Not to hijack this thread, but what is the "tunnel of love" and it's relationship with big splits.

Edit: Nevermind, found it. It's the way I've always started my fires which proves it's not rocket science if I can figure that out.

Oh and to answer the question...

Everything I know about burning wood I learned here (except the comment above). I didn't gather, cut, stack, or burn wood before this site. Thanks to all.
 
1. Replace the stoves with EPA stoves.

2. Line the chimneys.

3. Quit cutting hardwood in April and burning it in October.

All expensive and/or causing a lot of work but worth it.
 
Todd said:
Getting ahead on wood was the best tip for me. I always use to cut in the early Spring and burn that Fall. Makes a huge difference having 3 year old Oak to burn.

+1 That is how I did my wood since I was a kid splitting for my dad, this will be my first year burning true 2 year wood. I have 3 years c/s/s now.
 
Jags said:
BeGreen said:
BrotherBart said:
That or in a N/S loader putting two splits about an inch or two apart in the center loaded N/S, a piece of Super Cedar between them and angling a split over the valley in the middle. Light and relax for the show.

Bingo. Ironically I first tried this in the E/W loading Castine. I just used some shorter splits and chunk wood I had available. In the T6 it is almost silly easy. My wife thinks it's magic. Works even with just newspaper and no SuperCedar.

WHEW! thats a relief. I thought we might have to put a pg13 rating on this thread.

Nah, we're geezers. If we were in a tunnel of love they better be serving beer and popcorn.
 
-Don't use gas to start a fire.
-You can't get thrown off this forum.
-Mrs. Adios has the Blues.
-OCD runs rampant.
 
kenny chaos said:
-Don't use gas to start a fire.
-You can't get thrown off this forum.
-Mrs. Adios has the Blues.
-OCD runs rampant.
propane is gas! methane2 butt...
 
After 25+ years with different smoke dragons with shaker grates we got this stove used with no manual. Folks here schooled me on the proper way to operate our QF 4300st...

...it's easy when you know how. %-P
 
cleaning glass with ashes and the fan moving cool air towards the stove tie in first place.
 
Although I don't post much, I read frequently and have learned more than I can recount. One thing I learned that I haven't seen anyone else mention is not to be afraid to use the stove as intended. I was never afraid to use it, but I "babied it" in the beginning, thinking I was doing the right thing (and was cleaning the glass every day). Now, I let it RUN, and it rewards me with more heat, clear glass and a clean flue.
 
adrpga498 said:
Make the little V out of aluminum foil to put on the "right " side of the stove top thermometer needle. This wll show you how hot the stove got while you were away, or during overnight burn .


I still need to try this. And I really should with the Vigilant.
 
So whats the deal about blowing cool air at the stove?????
 
When you find yourself with long pieces needing cutting Use your splitter to hold them while cutting them down. An exspensive vise but beats having (soon to be Two fingers bill) hold them for you.
 
kayakkeith said:
So whats the deal about blowing cool air at the stove?????

It is the answer to how to move heat around the house. Most folks try to move the hot air around (ever notice all the products sold to do this such as fans to stick in doorways and such?). Since cold air is more dense it is generally easier to move it out of the cold areas and toward the stove to be heated.

Once the cold air is out of some space (cold end of house, room, whatever) something has to move in and most likely the air moving in will be warmer. I believe that simply putting a fan on the floor pointed toward the stove has solved (or greatly improved) the 'cold zone' issue for many folks.
 
Before I ever used a splitter, I knew I wanted to use it "Dennis's way" . Damned if he wasn't correct :)


Naah naah nah nah naah @ Jake :p

The 3 year rule applies... it takes 3 years to get your firewod manure(aka sh!t together ). Lucky I am that I'm into year 3, putting in a second stove, and have the wood ready to do it.
 
Dry Wood is rule #1

It seems a simple enough concept, but before I started hanging around here, I had been guilty of letting damp wood dry out "in the stove". Of course I knew dry wood burned much better, but this site really impressed how important it is, especially with the new EPA stoves
 
Best tip no doubt was making sure you get good wood. But also filling up the stove with wood 90% and then turning down the air when the fire gets going was a key tip for long lasting, efficient fires. My wood pile should last longer and my house will maintain a better level of heat.
 
Replace my Dutchwest with a Blaze King.
 
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