new here to the forum have ?’s on a ussc 1537 stove

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mhl380

Member
Dec 22, 2009
39
ohio
hi just purchased a new us stove model 1537G what is the proper way to run this
stove and not go though a lot of wood i do notice that when i first start the stove that
it surging for air but once it get going good it stops the surging and runs fine my ?'s
are where should i run the damper and the small air wheel on the clean out door
and get a slow nice burn during the night.thanks any info would be nice thank's agian Rick.
 
Well, I'm not sure if this helps but I have an older tarm and asked similar questions yrs ago. The learning curve on these things is pretty steep. I have a lower door with a damper controlled by a sampson draft regulator, and a round disc on the upper door and a round disk on the side of the boiler to add more air. I was told by many that you have to "fiddle" with it and see what settings work the best for the conditions you have. There are so many variables. How much draft do you have? is the wood hard or soft? is it really dry? After a few yrs I figured it out. Make sure you have good draft, dry wood and your boiler doors and seals are all in good condition. It takes a good bit of patience and trial and error to get things going the way they were intended too.
Mike
 
When I had that furnace, I pulled out the back plug for the forced draft. Then I closed the door damper and controlled the burns with the ash pan spinner. You can get long burns with the unit, but they will be dirty and will cause creosote. Keep an eye on the chimney and monitor how its burning. It will take some time to get used to the unit. Burning hotter will help eliminate creosote, but will also lower the burn times. Using good seasoned wood will help with everything.
 
Your air settings are going to depend on your own setup, and will take some time to learn. A lot will depend on your fuel and draft.

Burn times is what they is. It is definitely not the most efficient unit. I don't really try for the all night burn. I try to keep it burning as clean as I can, and that means smaller loads in milder temps, and otherwise in cold weather. If I try to load it up for all night and get a decent burn, I end up with an 80* house, unless it's cold (subzero) and windy. Then it will chew thru the wood.
 
We have the Vogelzang version - same furnace, different color and branding - and have been working on some modifications over the past few weeks, as documented in another thread called "Modifying a central wood furnace for secondary burn".

As others have said, it can definitely heat a good sized house, but is far from the most efficient thing out there. The modifications are an attempt to extend our burn times and reduce our emissions/creosote when not burning all-out. I don't recommend jumping into modifications, though. Messing with the box that contains a roaring fire in the middle of your home is generally not a good idea . . .

As for how to burn with it . . . you'll have to experiment. As mentioned, there are SO many variables that it's impossible to give you a recipe for success other than to try different things and see what works.

Good luck and have fun!
 
A stack thermometer may give you a good reference point. You could get a good correlation between burn times, heat output, chimney condition etc.
 
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