NC-30 BURN

laynes69 · Nov 6, 2010

I don't have a NC-30 but a EPA woodfurnace. Last year I installed it into a 7x11 chimney and used the furnace for the season. I had to constantly keep an eye on the unit and didn't seem to have the heat output it should have. This summer I installed a stainless rigid liner for our furnace. I can load the thing and 20 minutes later, close it down and watch it burn for hours. Heat output has increased greatly as well as burn times.

As it gets colder, so will the chimney. When you close down the stove, there will be less heat going into that chimney. Without a liner, those gasses will cool and draft will suffer. I agree 100%, get a liner in that chimney and that thing will wake up. I wanted to see a nc-30 in person at home depot, but they just had them in the box. If they are even close to the size of the box, damn those things are monsters.

oldspark · Nov 6, 2010

My summit acted somewhat like your stove (high flue temp vs stove top) and it just took some time to figure it out, you need to get the stove HOT before it works well and then you can cut the air back and have more heat from the stove. Way too early in the ball game to think you have much of a problem other than just a learning curve to work through.

Jags · Nov 8, 2010

oldspark said:
What happened to all the people that said dont worry about flue temp, now we say 500 max, 500 surface is not that high. I really think some of the info on this forum is misleading and confusing to the new people here. I was singled out as giveing the worng information to new people, now I know that was incorrect!

Oldspark - if this is in response to my post - I will clarify. First, anybody that says "don't worry about flue temps" may be giving advice with good intentions, but the fact is that TOO high of a flue temp is dangerous. Plane and simple. A 500F surface temp will yield a 1000+ F internal temp. Most installs (by mfg specs) are supposed to be rated to 1100F running temp and temporarily higher in the case of a flue fire. (at least that is the old numbers that I know of). So...1000+ F internal temps are bumping the safe zone of 1100F pretty dang close. Close enough to recommend going NO higher in my book. Thats my story and I'm sticking to it.

But then again, this is the interweb and you know that everything you read is factual. :lol:

begreen · Nov 8, 2010

forvols said:
I really believe I made an excellent choice of stove though. When it was cruising the heat was great Got my basement up to 80* it is all open and uninsulated.

Thanks to all for recommendation. I will continue to tweak and learn and keep you posted on my experience(s) with this stove.

Tony

It takes time to learn all the characteristics of a new stove. Often a full season of burning is required to expose it to many different atmospheric conditions, varying fuel loads, different air settings, various phases of the moon, etc.. Be patient and show that big boy some respect. It can belt out the heat.

PS: When you get a chance, please add your stove to your signature line

oldspark · Nov 9, 2010

Jags said:
oldspark said:

What happened to all the people that said dont worry about flue temp, now we say 500 max, 500 surface is not that high. I really think some of the info on this forum is misleading and confusing to the new people here. I was singled out as giveing the worng information to new people, now I know that was incorrect!

Click to expand...

Oldspark - if this is in response to my post - I will clarify. First, anybody that says "don't worry about flue temps" may be giving advice with good intentions, but the fact is that TOO high of a flue temp is dangerous. Plane and simple. A 500F surface temp will yield a 1000+ F internal temp. Most installs (by mfg specs) are supposed to be rated to 1100F running temp and temporarily higher in the case of a flue fire. (at least that is the old numbers that I know of). So...1000+ F internal temps are bumping the safe zone of 1100F pretty dang close. Close enough to recommend going NO higher in my book. Thats my story and I'm sticking to it.

But then again, this is the interweb and you know that everything you read is factual. :lol:

Not refering to you at all, if fact I consider you to be on the same page as I.

Jags · Nov 9, 2010

oldspark said:
Jags said:

oldspark said:

What happened to all the people that said dont worry about flue temp, now we say 500 max, 500 surface is not that high. I really think some of the info on this forum is misleading and confusing to the new people here. I was singled out as giveing the worng information to new people, now I know that was incorrect!

Click to expand...

Oldspark - if this is in response to my post - I will clarify. First, anybody that says "don't worry about flue temps" may be giving advice with good intentions, but the fact is that TOO high of a flue temp is dangerous. Plane and simple. A 500F surface temp will yield a 1000+ F internal temp. Most installs (by mfg specs) are supposed to be rated to 1100F running temp and temporarily higher in the case of a flue fire. (at least that is the old numbers that I know of). So...1000+ F internal temps are bumping the safe zone of 1100F pretty dang close. Close enough to recommend going NO higher in my book. Thats my story and I'm sticking to it.

But then again, this is the interweb and you know that everything you read is factual. :lol:

Click to expand...

Not refering to you at all, if fact I consider you to be on the same page as I.

Maybe the "clarification" will help somebody else out of a situation. :lol:

forvols · Nov 9, 2010

Well I think in my limited understanding stovetop, flue temp and the relationship of those two is important to understand. Like any new toy figuring out the why(s) of how it operates and how can I make it better is part of the game. Though with this gather as much information as you can and given your level of understanding apply that information to your situation. Of course since this is the internet take everything with a grain of salt. Trust but verify, some verification comes from long timers and their LL. Another verification is continue to research and ask questions applying recevied information to your particular situation. I appericiate everyones input but that does not mean I commit it all to memory and let that define my plan of action, thats me ymmv.

Thanks to all you burners young and old. This site is a great resource. I want to have NC-30 burning safely and efficiently to heat my home. Hopefully, next year I will feel sage enough to impart some information that helped my particular situation, but everyones is different. If it were cookie cutter application we would all be pros the 1st burn. But it aint, every situation is differnt so the onus is on the burner not the advice giver- to ask, digest information, apply and get to what works best for your situation safely and efficiently. I will tell ya if not for this site I would not have thermometer, I would load the NC-30 to gills get the flames going wide open and maybe shut it down when the heat got to much...I would be stressing the safety limit and I also would be bit**ing about how much wood the NC-30 goes through.

Tony

oldspark · Nov 10, 2010

forvals, the fact that you learned something is what it is all about. Have a safe woodburning season.

forvols · Dec 10, 2010

UPDATE:

Found out my FLUE tiles are 10x10 id.

NC-30 burns are getting much better and easier for me. What I do now is cold stove build a small hot fire to get the flue heated up. Let the coals get established (flue gets to 475 and stove is 575-600 then I close down the air and let it burn down). Once the burn down of the small fire happens I load up the NC-30 and run the temps back up to flue 475 / stove 575-600 close down the air to half get good secondaries and stove settles down some. Close air to 1/4 still good secondaries and stove is cruising at about 525-550 / flue 350-375. Let the puppy run, sometimes I will shut the air down to 1/8 or so. Temps here have been in the upper 20s-low 30s during the day, mid to upper teens at night. Oh and no smoke or very little smoke when the stove is cruising, more like steam.
This is burning poplar(I have ALOT of poplar). I dont have any oak, but some hickory that I split in JUN (tried a couple splits of that still think its to wet though).
I also run the stove fan on high while the temp is 600 then cut it to medium when stove top is 525-550, temps below that I cut the fan to low or off. Lot of heat coming out of that big black box. Again I believe I made an excellent choice in stove for my basement

Tony

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NC-30 BURN

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