Insert into a 1950's brick hearth / metal fireplace - how much bend in liner is ok?

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tecumseh

Member
Oct 27, 2010
11
NW Ohio
Hello all!

We moved into a 1950's house this summer that has a massive brick hearth and metal fireplace box (has air chambers through brick from kitchen into living room etc) which is basically unusable because of rusting. I have been planning on putting in a smaller insert (drolet/ashley/flame), chimney liner, cap etc myself to save money.

The chimney sweep came in the yesterday to clean the fireplace. He mentioned we shouldn't do any kind of fire without an insert because of bad rusting (confirmed what I thought) and the possibe escape of gases into the house. My wife mentioned that I was planning on putting in an insert and the chimney sweep who also does installs mentioned he would recommend cutting the metal fireplace box in the back to allow the flexible chimney liner to come down into the fire chamber.

Well I had been eyeing the flue area and determined with a little bit of cutting on the front lip that the back doesn't need to be cut and ripped out. The front lip is a thin metal strip on the front side of the box for the flue cover to rest against. With the lip, the flue opening is just barely 6 inches wide, but by taking out the front lip is expands to 8+ inches.

My dilemma is if having a bend in the liner, first towards the front of the chimney and then hopefully straight down to the insert would cause future problems. Where the pipe goes through flue there would be a bend which is the part i am worrying about. My measuring based on the diagrams in the insert manuals shows the liner can come straight down from the flue area onto the insert top if I extend the insert out to the maximum allowable into the living room.

I have included pics to hopefully show what I am thinking of doing and to see if you think that cutting and ripping out the back roof of the fireplace is really needed. Any thoughts or recommendations would be welcome!

Thanks,

Tim
 

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I am presently doing the same thing in my 1970's house. Althought the fireplace is in an addition that was built in the late 90's. Un fortunatly the design you illustrated is a common problem in the majority of all open fireplaces. Recent studies into fireplaces in house show that the older designs of smoke chambers with wide but narrow flues actually cool the flue gases to much.
http://www.woodheat.org/planning/successfulfireplace.htm


However I think your idea will work just fine. I plan on installing my flex liner and insert this weekend. if I feel randy enough ill try and post some pictures.
But to aswer your question, you do want to minimize the amount of bends in any chimney set up. Think of it like plumbing, Exhaust piping etc. The best flow is achieved throught the straightest run. Not to mention that any bend casues an area where heat is allowed to build, such as the outside radius of said bend. Also cleaning a chimney becomes a bit more of a chore with bends then a straight run. In short the two bends you will have to make should be just fine, any bend in a chimney should have a slight uphill run, such as a 1/4" per foot, in this case you have two 45 degree bends so you'll no doubt accomplish that. something should be said as to the over all height of the chimney as well. but thats a seperate issue.
 
We went with insulated rigid liner, two 45 degree angles, through our fireplace damper area. Fireplace damper was taken out to accomplish our install.

Shari
 
When you cut out the "lip" and the damper to make way for the liner, get or rent yourself a gas axe or blow torch or a plasma cutter, otherwise, if you are going to do it with a reciprocating saw you are going to take 2 days and be cover head to toe with crud and be deaf and have junk up your nose.
I used the gas axe and it took me about 20minutes total
 
It's hard to tell how cramped it is up there from the pic, but if it were me I'd try an angle grinder and/or hacksaw to make that cut before renting a torch. Agree the recip saw is no fun.

If your measurements are correct & the liner wil line-up with the collar on the insert (or get pretty close) then you are looking good & I don't see any prob leaving the bigger chunk of metal in place. As stated above, the less bends the better for draft, but nearly everyone has some bends and/or an oval section of liner where it goes through the damper. Not gonna be a problem unless your chimney is already too short
 
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