Splitter EMERGENCY !!

I agree. Looks like the flow is incorrect. Due to the groove at the top, it looks like the opening is narrow on the left side. It could be your problem... (just my opinion)..

Wouldn't the tank be on the return side of the piston? I'd have to look at mine when I get home, but I think it goes from the tank to the pump to the valve to the piston to the filter and back to the tank.

Possibly the system needs to be bled? Also is the system full? (or even charged?) I've heard that they only supply a minimal amout of fuild.

Greg H said:

Wouldn't the tank be on the return side of the piston? I'd have to look at mine when I get home, but I think it goes from the tank to the pump to the valve to the piston to the filter and back to the tank.

Possibly the system needs to be bled? Also is the system full? (or even charged?) I've heard that they only supply a minimal amout of fuild.

Click to expand...

I believe you are correct. The return line flows to the filter from there into the tank.
I suggest checking the fluid level as well.

Filter is correct....fluid is filtered going back to the tank....check level and depending how cold it is where you are you should let it run for a bit before use to let the hyd oil warm up

Things are never as bad as they seem, ever.

Check your manual. There should be a procedure for purging air from a new/recently transported hydraulic splitter. It should be one of the initial steps before first use.

the arrow is to indicate flow direction. If it is a suction strainer, the arrow goes from tank to pump, (but it wil be a strainer element, not a filter, and NEITHER are recommended.)
If it is a return filter, as most are, the arrow goes from control valve towards tank.

I used a rental unit that had gotten water in the oil, which swelled the paper element, which was backwards, and had no bypass, and blew the can out. Moral: bad assembly at rental shop, and cheap paper filters. Double check all the asembly work.

To purge air, just cycle the cylinder but DON'T build pressure at end of stroke. You want the air purged out, not compressed in the end of the cylinder. If it is compressed, when you shift the valve to go the other way, that compressed air is connected to return line and pushes out a huge flow surge into return line. Can blow the filters or hose connections. No drama, just cycle it back and forth a few times and if the ports are up it will quickly purge out. If ports are on the side, takes more effort, but just keep cycling it with light loads

sounds like you are going again already.

Wood just went out & checked mine. You are just fine. You probability had air in the system.
We put the 5 gallons of hyd. oil they supplied with the machine. I looked in the tank it was only about 3/4 full
in the middle of the safe level. The oil will need room to expand. Go split a couple cords & give us an update.

I checked my flow direction yesterday while splitting some rounds of white oak and its from filter to tank. My badd on my previous comment. Glad you got her up and running.

My splitter came from TSC prefilled to just about the low mark, maybe slightly below it. A half a gallon of hydraulic fluid later and it is about 1/3 the way up the ok mark. The Huskee came with a warning to not run it below 32 deg F with hydraulic fluid; it would need ATF to do that.

'Hydraulic fluid' is not one product with standard viscosity specs like ATF. There are various grades, the most common are ISO 32, 46, and 68. 46 is good all around, 68 for hot climates, 32 good year around with the bias to the cold. It is about like ATF. ISO 22 is cold climates only.

ISO viscosity grades are the viscosity only. The brand and quality of the additives and secret recipes vary. Generally, a good quality brand name works just fine. splitters are very simple and lightly loaded circuits.