I guess I am finally going to break down and reline the chimney. I know I need a liner then insulation for the liner, a and a rain cap, tee, and top plate. There are a few things that I don’t understand about relining the chimney. The first is does the top plate hold the liner in place? How does the tee work since the liner is 6’’ and my thimble is 8?” Does the tee come all the way through the thimble and hook directly to the stove? Does the liner stop at the thimble with the tee or do I run it on down to the bottom of the chimney? Since I have a 7x11 chimney do I need a 8x13 top plate? Last what is the best liner to get ?
Relining Chimney
- Thread starter 94BULLITT
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A picture being worth a bunch of words, here is a good video of the liner installation process.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RRauuzjI-H4
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RRauuzjI-H4
Thanks for the video link Brother Bart, that answered a lot of my questions. I took the pipe off of the stove to get a good measurement to see how much liner I needed and there was a downdraft on the chimney. There was not a downdraft when I put the stove in but there is today. My chimney meets the 10x2 rule, it is actually close to 3' higher than the roof. What do I need to do so I will not have a downdraft?
ansehnlich1
Retired Hearth.com Member
Hey bullitt, if you can, post up some pictures of your setup, your chimney, etc.
Also, how tall is that chimney anyhow?
If your chimney is the recommended height, (or more) than your stove calls for, my bet is that when you get that liner installed you'll see an improvement.
Take some pics and post 'em here so these guys and gals can see what ya got.
Also, how tall is that chimney anyhow?
If your chimney is the recommended height, (or more) than your stove calls for, my bet is that when you get that liner installed you'll see an improvement.
Take some pics and post 'em here so these guys and gals can see what ya got.
The pipe is off of the stove right now because I am trying figure out this chimney, I will get some pics when I put it together. This chimney will have a down draft one second then no draft the a updraft (I am holding a lighter in front of it), is this normal? Is it possible to add a extension to the chimney liner?
branchburner said:
Im considering lining my chimney its a 30ft outdoor masonry, its 11x7 flue. What is the main purpose of the insulation and why do I need it?
Sorry for hijacking the thread and thanks in advance.
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The insulation is there for 2 main purposes, really: 1.) to help keep the flue gases hot (thus less creosote) and 2.) in the event of a liner fire, the insulation will help keep the fire from spreading to the masonry chimney (most of which were never built up to code).
To expand on what Pagey said, 1) an exterior chimney will be cooler and is more likely to need an insulated liner to keep those flue gases hot - an interior chimney is generally warmer and has less of a critical need for insulation.
And 2) regarding safety in event of chimney fire, if your masonry chimney does not have a clay liner, or the clay tiles are cracked or loose/damaged, then you MUST insulate your steel liner, by code. If the tile liner is fine, insulation is optional (but generally advisable, unless space is an issue, which it can be with 7" flues).
And 2) regarding safety in event of chimney fire, if your masonry chimney does not have a clay liner, or the clay tiles are cracked or loose/damaged, then you MUST insulate your steel liner, by code. If the tile liner is fine, insulation is optional (but generally advisable, unless space is an issue, which it can be with 7" flues).
94BULLITT said:
Consider a liner that is pre-insulated, like Simpson Duravent. That is what they used for my install, but I am not sure it would work for you.
Saves the hassle of wrapping a separate liner, or the mess or pouring vermiculite.
The picture helps 94B. I kind of thought that might be how it is hooked up. I would eliminate that 90 elbow and replace it with a pair of 45s and a short diagonal connector. That will improve draft, perhaps enough to make the stove happy. At the very least I would shorten the vertical connector by an inch or two to increase the pitch of the horizontal section.
Renovation
New Member
BeGreen said:
+1
That sounds like a great idea. You should do it anyway, and if it fixes your problem, you're golden.
RedGuy
Member
Just a note, but I've been looking at chimney liners and from everything I've found so far it doesn't matter wether your chimney is interior or exterior but wether it was built to code with the required airspaces both between the clay liner and from combustables. I'm sure in most situations as in mine you can't tell if their chimney was built up to current code unless you start taking it apart. Also from what I've read most chimneys are not built properly. In this case the only way to make the chimney code for a wood burning appliance other then the original fireplace that was installed is to install a chimney liner that's UL listed, and everyone I've found requires insulation to meet the UL requirements. Not to mention the peace of mind, for the cost it's worth it to me.
A few considerations / questions.
1. I know you have complained about the performance of your stove. How hot were your stove top temps when you were barely keeping your house 69-70?
If your stove top temps were in the 500-600 range, then I'd be concerned that your basement is solid concrete and it is soaking up all of the heat and sending it out to the earth through your uninsulated basement walls rather than keeping it in your home.
2. I know you said this was dead standing wood that was cut and split 7-8 months. However, from what I see in the corner that does not look seasoned to me. Have you tried out a moisture meter yet? Additionally, if you are loading the stove w/ nothing but rounds, you won't get poo for a fire going. Rounds are great for loading in between splits, but in general, you need a mix. Also, rounds take longer to season than splits since evaporation can only take place through the ends.
3. Regardless, w/ the size of your flue I'd say a liner is a good idea. But if that wood is not perfect, you will not get the results you ever want. Especially when you factor in that you are heating from an uninsulated concrete basement.
4. How much wood are you putting on this fire? If I start a small fire in a cold stove I don't get a lot of heat from this thing. My heat comes from first having a fire to get some coals going, then loading the old girl up w/ wood (filling it right up to the top of the fire bricks), then letting her do her magic. Also, if all you have are these rounds, go to the grocery and buy a cart full of their wood splits and give it a go.
Good luck.
pen
1. I know you have complained about the performance of your stove. How hot were your stove top temps when you were barely keeping your house 69-70?
If your stove top temps were in the 500-600 range, then I'd be concerned that your basement is solid concrete and it is soaking up all of the heat and sending it out to the earth through your uninsulated basement walls rather than keeping it in your home.
2. I know you said this was dead standing wood that was cut and split 7-8 months. However, from what I see in the corner that does not look seasoned to me. Have you tried out a moisture meter yet? Additionally, if you are loading the stove w/ nothing but rounds, you won't get poo for a fire going. Rounds are great for loading in between splits, but in general, you need a mix. Also, rounds take longer to season than splits since evaporation can only take place through the ends.
3. Regardless, w/ the size of your flue I'd say a liner is a good idea. But if that wood is not perfect, you will not get the results you ever want. Especially when you factor in that you are heating from an uninsulated concrete basement.
4. How much wood are you putting on this fire? If I start a small fire in a cold stove I don't get a lot of heat from this thing. My heat comes from first having a fire to get some coals going, then loading the old girl up w/ wood (filling it right up to the top of the fire bricks), then letting her do her magic. Also, if all you have are these rounds, go to the grocery and buy a cart full of their wood splits and give it a go.
Good luck.
pen
Yeah I have a smaller stove in my uninsulated block wall basement and when I was using it for an office I would have to fire the crap out of that Jotul for hours before any heat made it up the stairwell. The walls were soaking it up like a sponge. But that 5700 should be a heating beast with the right flue and wood.
The stove has been burning better than ever. I think there was something in the bottom 2 air wholes because since I blew it out with the shop vac those 2 air whole almost blow out the fire and I am getting way more secondary fires and the door is staying cleaner. Right now the stove is 450* (I did have it to 550* yesterday) and the house is 71*. The wood is dry I have tried the moisture meter. The stuff in the corner is just some smaller stuff I use for when it gets low. 99% of my wood is splits. I usually put 4 splits in. I'll wait for what wood is in there now for it to burn down and I will load it up to the bricks and see what happens. I went to the dealer today to order some parts for the stove today. The stove expert is off all week and they are going to have their chimney sweep call tomorrow.pen said:
Could just be a drop in temperature. It sounds like the flue is right on the cusp for draft. I'm willing to bet that with a 10 degree temp drop outside it works pretty well. Try what I mentioned above. The horiz. run is long, give it more pitch. Or better yet, change out that 90 elbow for a pair of 45s.
BeGreen said:
No temp drop today BG. 65 and sunny in the day today and it is 51 outside right now at almost nine thirty. Heat wave! And if my guess is right he is within twenty miles of me. South of me to boot.
My stove is gonna stay cold tonight. We have been in the high twenties by sunup for a few days but it is supposed to stay in the mid forties tonight. Woo Hoo!
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