Help with stove placement, pics included

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I also just notice that the glass is getting a little brownish looking around the bottom corners. Is this normal and if not what am I doing to cause this?
 
80F, well, now you have a real Florida room. :) Good to hear that the heat is making it out into the great room.

The stove is running a bit cool, especially if the air is shut down right after adding wood. Run the stove a bit hotter and the glass should clear up.

Let the ash hole fill up. It is worthless. The stove will burn a bit better with a nice bed of ash, so just let it build up.
 
I agree with the ash chute. Have read too many peoples' posts regarding ash or coals getting stuck in there and causing an air leak. I'd rather take 1 or 2 shovels of ash out and leave the rest then try to sweep it down the hole and have something get stuck.

I think I've burned 7 times this year and still haven't removed any ash. Just keep building fires on top of whats there.


Anywhoo... Nice setup, patrolman!! Looks like something out of a brochure for a ski lodge!!
 
So, does anyone know why I'm not seeing the flames shooting out of the baffle holes yet? Does the stove have to be really hot for this to start happening? I called PE and they said that it should start after an initial period. I have noticed what looks like air coming out of them. I can see this when the flames off of the main logs are going over the holes. It looks like it is blowing the flames. I just thought that there would also be some actual fire coming out of the holes. Any ideas on this?
Thanks.
 
PE's secondary burn looks different than stoves with tubes or horiz. secondary baffles. You will see this more plainly when the stove gets refilled, wood ignites, then the air is turned down to just where the flames get lazy. What happens is more like clouds of flame start decending from the baffle. It is hard to describe,but you will recognize it when you see it. You can't see the front row of holes burning off unless you get down low and look up at the front edge of the baffle while the wood is outgassing. But still, it's a different light show than on other stoves.

Here are some examples:
Summit: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AlFH3PQQ5IM&NR=1
T6: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LATv7XsZE1U
T6: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OR4aFg-F0mY
 
BeGreen said:
PE's secondary burn looks different than stoves with tubes or horiz. secondary baffles. You will see this more plainly when the stove gets refilled, wood ignites, then the air is turned down to just where the flames get lazy. What happens is more like clouds of flame start decending from the baffle. It is hard to describe,but you will recognize it when you see it. You can't see the front row of holes burning off unless you get down low and look up at the front edge of the baffle while the wood is outgassing. But still, it's a different light show than on other stoves.

Here are some examples:
Summit: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AlFH3PQQ5IM&NR=1
T6: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LATv7XsZE1U
T6: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OR4aFg-F0mY

Does the stove have to reach a certain temperature for the secondary burn to start?
Is what I'm seeing when the flames brush over the holes and it looks like air blowing out of the holes the secondary burn? So far, if the flames are not reaching the top to the holes, I don't see anything coming out. The air is probably still coming out, but without the flames to blow around, I don't see it.

You know, I think what I see might be the secondary burn. I just only see it when the flames are raging and going over the holes. If the fire is down and the flames are low and not really reaching the holes I don't see anything like fire come out.
 
Yes, the stove needs to be warm. Usually the best show is when the stove is reloaded and the air is reduced. You will see stove top temps increase when this happens. Try with the blower off so you can accurately read the top temperature. If you reload with a moderate coal bed with a stove temp of 300, you will see the temp rise as the wood ignites. Once it is fully aflame, start closing down the air supply. The stove top temp will increase as well as secondary burning.

That said, don't worry too much about it. By mid-winter with daily reloads you should be seeing this frequently.
 
I've had my first minor issue with this stove. I just noticed that the small gasket that surrounds the glass is coming loose on the inside all the way around. It looks like it is backing off from the glue. Is this a common issue with these gaskets? I called PE and they said it could be easily glued back by my dealer. I don't think it should make any difference when I burn in it until it gets fixed. Since the gasket is on both sides of the glass I doubt if any air will leak through. It is just weird that it has already come loose on the first 24 hour burn. Have any of you had this happen before or heard of it happening? Again, this seems very minor and I still think that the stove is well built. Thanks.
 
The only thing that is important is that the gasket is making a good seal between the glass and the door. The rest is cosmetic.
 
BeGreen said:
The only thing that is important is that the gasket is making a good seal between the glass and the door. The rest is cosmetic.

You have had your T6 for around 3 seasons right? Has your gasket around the glass on the inside started to come loose? Maybe they used some bad glue on mine. If you look at the picture you can see the small thin gasket around the glass has come loose.
 

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No, our gasket is not glued at all on the interior side. It doesn't need to adhere to the inside of the glass. Our gasket does have an excess fold on the inside, just like your gasket. It just hangs out there. But this is of no consequence because about 1/8" of it is sealing where the gasket contacts the door.

If there is glue on it, I am guessing that this is just a matter of how they mass produce the stove. That is, someone temporarily glues the gasket to the glass to keep it in place so that it is ready for assembly. Once it is clamped in place, any glue is irrelevant. The only thing that is important is that the gasket is captive and sealing the surface where it mates with the stove door.
 
I looked back at a picture that I took of a T5 that was on display in a store. The inside glass gasket looks just like mine and it had never even been used. Maybe this is just how they are. It seems like on mine there is some type of a sticky substance on the glass, like a glue. I really don't think it matters either way, but obviously mine isn't the only one like this. I'm enjoying the heat on this stove. Right now it is around 44 outside and inside it is in the upper 70's. I turned off my blower and waited a while to check my thermometer. Right now it is reading around 425. I'm about to shut it down to low so it will last tonight.
 

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my gasket around the glass looks the exact same as yours, patrolman. I actually have had the same question, and kept forgetting to ask!! Good to hear there is no issue.
 
The sliding air lever on my stove is making a rubbing sound where the metal is rubbing on metal. It is mostly when I push the lever all the way to the right. It seems to be better when the stove is cold and worse when it is hot. Is this something that all these stoves do? Has anyone figured out what to put on it to get it to stop? I did try some grease and it seemed to work for a little while. I guess after a few days the grease got too hot and it has started squeaking again. Any suggestions or should I just live with it? Thanks.
 
patrolman467 said:
The sliding air lever on my stove is making a rubbing sound where the metal is rubbing on metal. It is mostly when I push the lever all the way to the right. It seems to be better when the stove is cold and worse when it is hot. Is this something that all these stoves do? Has anyone figured out what to put on it to get it to stop? I did try some grease and it seemed to work for a little while. I guess after a few days the grease got too hot and it has started squeaking again. Any suggestions or should I just live with it? Thanks.

I'm not sure how it is with the PE, but the Oslos air control lever gets a bit sticky sometimes when ash accumulates in it. When the stove is cool -- or at least warm enough to touch -- I take off the doghouse which contains the air control lever, blow out the dust and then use a liberal amount of graphite powder (available at any hardware store) to lubricate the mechanism . . . usually I get several months of easy peasy movement before needing to re-do the job.
 
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