new eko controller help RK-2001U

  • Active since 1995, Hearth.com is THE place on the internet for free information and advice about wood stoves, pellet stoves and other energy saving equipment.

    We strive to provide opinions, articles, discussions and history related to Hearth Products and in a more general sense, energy issues.

    We promote the EFFICIENT, RESPONSIBLE, CLEAN and SAFE use of all fuels, whether renewable or fossil.
Status
Not open for further replies.
barnartist

barnartist

Minister of Fire
Dec 30, 2007
615
Jerusalem, Ohio;
www.barnartist.com
The unit did not work when I got it. Opened it up and it had some loose and broken solder welds. Re attached and soldered and it now works.

Anyway it is reading everything in Celsius. I am hoping there is a way to change it to F, this is one of the reasons for the purchase.
Next, what to do with the probe for the room temp. My boiler is in an outbuilding so not sure if I can use it for anything like the storage tanks, or how it will effect the controller.
 
Page 4 of the controller manual states that when you turn the knob it will show up as for an example (C180) ,the C doesn't stand for Celsius but the temperature the Control is trying to maintain which is in Fahrenheit.I down loaded this manual from the New Horizon sight.
 
I printed the manual, I have it right here to mess with my brain.
It reads the water temp in celcious all the time, I have not seen anything in F.
 
I installed one of these on my tarm

C then the number displays what the setpoint is.
Hitting the start then makes mine display the boiler temp with an F after it. until it gets up to temp or runs out of fuel.
 
YEP, push the start button like Tarmsolo60 says. I thought the same thing initially.
 
Maybe I need to hit that button again. I used it last night for its first cycle. It remains in Celcious reading.

For what its worth I noticed the model number on the unit ends in U, not U A. I wonder if this matters?
 
Everybody is correct. The unit is supposed to be a RK-2001U (no "A's" there) This is a farenheit controller. Your setpoint will say C until you push the start button, only once. You might want to think about using the probe thermostat. It will turn the blower on and off. It is easiest to just maintain the boiler water temperature with the jumper wire connected and use the dial on the controller to set the desired boiler water temperature. Much preferable this way. If you took the controller apart and perhaps lost the jumper wire, just take a small guage copper wire and connect it to lugs 3 and 4 on the back of your controller and you're back in business.
 
hogger said:
Everybody is correct. The unit is supposed to be a RK-2001U (no "A's" there) This is a farenheit controller. Your setpoint will say C until you push the start button, only once. You might want to think about using the probe thermostat. It will turn the blower on and off. It is easiest to just maintain the boiler water temperature with the jumper wire connected and use the dial on the controller to set the desired boiler water temperature. Much preferable this way. If you took the controller apart and perhaps lost the jumper wire, just take a small guage copper wire and connect it to lugs 3 and 4 on the back of your controller and you're back in business.
Click to expand...

hogger may have found your problem. Yes, you definitely want the jumper across what it shows as "the house thermostat" terminals. Especially since you have 1000 gals of storage. That feature must be something useful in Europe when running without storage but has no purpose here from what I can tell. The controller will keep the boiler at the temp you select with the dial with this jumpered out.
 
I tried to jumper the connections, but the unit continued to read E 1 or some number I cant recall.

The unit continues to to readout in C even after I hit start. A new burn cycle begins but since the install it remains the same.
While this is not a terrible thing as I have been used to C over the past 5 seasons, it is not what I expected.
 
I guess instead of taking the controller apart (I know it's fun and all....) it would have been better to have it taken care of under warranty. It is warrantied for 5 years. Sounds like you've got more problems with things there. An E-1 code means that the unit was overheated. Usually, if you shut the unit down by hitting the stop button or turning the controller off with the switch and then turning it back on, the error code will go away. If it persists after taking those steps, it usually means the temperature probe is gone and needs to be replaced. Either that, or perhaps you have something cross-connected when you did your soldering job. But it sounds like you have more going on there and you keep coming up with things. Whoever you bought the boiler from SHOULD be able to help you with it. I concur with leaddog.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.

Similar threads

velvetfoot
Monitoring Buffer Tank Temperatures Using Fibaro Smart Implant
Replies
1
Views
594
The Boiler Room - Wood Boilers and Furnaces
brenndatomu
brenndatomu
A
Replacing Brookwood boiler: Gasifier vs a "conventional"?
Replies
12
Views
3K
The Boiler Room - Wood Boilers and Furnaces
aczlan
A
Roundgunner
What OWB to buy
Replies
16
Views
3K
The Boiler Room - Wood Boilers and Furnaces
Mic
M
M
Hydronic system controls
Replies
3
Views
2K
The Boiler Room - Wood Boilers and Furnaces
PassionForFire&Water
PassionForFire&Water
U
Help, please- quick sizing of expansion tank for Windhager 262 pellet boiler + 240 gallons pressurized storage?
Replies
5
Views
2K
The Boiler Room - Wood Boilers and Furnaces
Patti
P
Top Bottom
Back