castile not feeding

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Barrett

Member
Dec 3, 2008
50
SE Vermont
Quadra-fire Castile problem. Auger will not work, doesn’t feed pellets. It started making a screeching sound when feeding, so I turned it off and let it cool down. Cleaned everything, even pulled the motor/auger out.

Exhaust blower motor blows, ignitor gets hot, and red call light is lit.
Thermocouple is adjusted right.
Jumped the auger motor with 110 volts, and it works.
Door gasket is tight, dollar bill gets stuck when closed.
Vacuum tube is clear.
I put a voltmeter on lots of wires/connections, the service manuals just say to check for power, not how much power should be present. Measurements ranged from 4 to 83 volts.
Removed cap from clean out tee, still doesn’t work (to see if chimney was blocked).
There is no increase in voltage to the auger motor when I push the reset button.

Does anybody know about the error codes? It flashes blue 4 times in a row, six or seven times when plugged in. I can’t remember what it flashed when working.

Thanks for any help!
 
Really Hot,

I just went through this with my Castille. All of the vacuum switches and snap disks showed continuity, the thermostat was okay, and I could not measure any voltage to the feed motor when I pressed the reset button. My red call light was also staying lit when the thermostat was turned up. Just as you mentioned, the exhaust blower and heater worked. In fact, I could throw pellets in manually and make the stove work. Cleaning the stove did not help.

You are not going to like this - I ended up replacing the control board. The stove works like a charm now. I found a control board at Black Swan for $300 with shipping, but I had to wait a week and half while they back ordered it. That may not be an option this late in the season. Maybe Dave will cut a deal, I see he's asking $405. Of course that price may be worth it to you he can ship tomorrow. Good luck.
 
Figured out the problem.

The vacuum switch is bad. It's basically a hollow metal brick, but is has a plastic block that 2 wires connect to. The plastic block is loose, and has to be in just the right position for the switch to work (and make the auger turn).

I realized this this after spending about 6 hours of testing/cleaning/fiddling with every single possible part. New vacuum switch ordered, cost $60 (not in stock at the nearest dealer an hour away). At least I didn't have to pay $75 an hour for a tech to try to figure it out.
 
It sure is nice when you can have the mechanical aptitude to troubleshoot these buggers. Relying on a very small network of dealers is one real drawback to purchasing these stoves unless you are willing to dig in and learn how they work AND have a network of helpful people on forums!!!!!!
 
Barrett said:
Figured out the problem.

The vacuum switch is bad. It's basically a hollow metal brick, but is has a plastic block that 2 wires connect to. The plastic block is loose, and has to be in just the right position for the switch to work (and make the auger turn).

I realized this this after spending about 6 hours of testing/cleaning/fiddling with every single possible part. New vacuum switch ordered, cost $60 (not in stock at the nearest dealer an hour away). At least I didn't have to pay $75 an hour for a tech to try to figure it out.

Did you think of trying to seal it with silicone?
 
I am glad to hear you got off light!!! That vacuum switch is not secured to the vacuum box very well. BTW - I have read posts from other members of the forum having problems with vacuum hoses running between the exhaust vent and the vacuum box. My hoses appeared okay. Apparently they sometimes leak. Something to keep in mind.
 
You can also test the vacuum part with a $25 vacuum tool used for automotive stuff (brakes, MAP sensors, etc).
 
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