HELP - Runaway Castine

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kestrel

Member
Nov 17, 2009
89
Southcentral PA
Been having problems keeping the stove under control. Last night the deflector was glowing red with the primary air closed down and raging secondaries. I stuffed some tin foil in the secondary air opening and finally got it under control.

Today I'm flirting again with out of control temperatures. This is with being very careful to close the air down incrementally as the fire got going and very little coal bed when the fire started.

Used to go to sleep at night without worry and the stove burning. Gonna be hard to do that for a while. Any suggestions to gain control over the situation? Thanks.
 
Tell us a bit more about what you're burning and your method is for closing the air down. Do you have a stove top thermo?

Also, remember, if the stove is getting away from you, it can be shut down quickly by stuffing foil in the air intake (circular opening in the bottom of the stove, rear).
 
Also may be a good idea to put a key damper in the stove pipe. Cheap way to increase your control over the stove.
 
It is getting extra air somewhere that it didn't before. Find it.
 
I've been burning mostly oak and hard maple, seasoned about a year although in a very windy, sunnny, hilltop spot. I do have a stove-top thermo and watch the temperature. I dial the primary air down as much as I can without smoldering the fire. It seems its either smoldering or raging inferno - no in-between. This is my third season with the stove and I've never had these issues before.

As far as a stove-pipe damper, I have the stove in a masonry hearth that used to be a fireplace. I have one of those moveable flue connectors that can be adjusted as the stove sits forward of the masonry chimney opening. Where does the flue damper go?

Maybe there is some air getting in the stove. How often do these stoves need to be re-gasketed? Is it excess air if the fire goes out when I cover the secondary intake?

Thanks guys
 
Yea, if the connector pipe/chimney is tough to get to a damper may not be practical.

BrotherBart makes a good point. It could be that air is seeping in at a joint or a failed gasket. A blown out candle or incense might be helpful in testing for leaks.
 
First place to check is to be sure the ashpan door is closing tightly. Look for ash build up behind the ash pan and clean out any packed in back there. Then do the dollar bill test on the both the main and ashpan door gaskets.

A couple other things. How tall is the flue on this stove? Last season you mentioned that you split the wood pretty small. Maybe try burning bigger splits and see if that slows her down a bit.
 
you got it begreen! i would bet on that being the issue. the f-400 is the tightest(bad word i know) of all the jotul stoves. that being said its a gasket or ash pan not fully closing for sure!
 
I will do some looking around tomorrow when the stove is cool. What is a good way to check for gasket leaks?

My splits are of a size that 4-5 fills the firebox. Chimney is pretty high, maybe 25'.

On thing I've noticed is that even with the incredibly hot fires my glass is getting dirtier than it had in the past on the bottom edge. Does this indicate air leakage? Maybe the gasket on the glass?
 
Yep. Do the dollar bill test all the way around the door. And the ash pan door while you are at it. To check for leaks elsewhere pass an incense stick or something else smokey down the joints. If there is a smoker around, borrow their Marlboro.
 
You can tell a lot by observing the fire and the glass. The deposits on the glass may be a clue. Was the top removed for cleaning before it was fired up?
 
The top has never been removed.

I did the dollar-bill test on the door and ash pan and both are tight. Visually inspected the window gasket and it also looks good.

When I use the incense stick I am holding it near the joints inside the stove and looking for smoke coming out? Is this correct?
 
kestrel said:
The top has never been removed.

I did the dollar-bill test on the door and ash pan and both are tight. Visually inspected the window gasket and it also looks good.

When I use the incense stick I am holding it near the joints inside the stove and looking for smoke coming out? Is this correct?

No. With a nice fire going in the stove, hold the incense stick outside the stove near the joints and look for smoke going in.
-Jeff
 
Finished using an incense stick to check for extra air entering the stove. None. Door, ash pan, window, top seal, corners, nothing. I can't find anywhere that air is getting in.

Maybe my draft is just too strong.

Would reducing my air intake by covering half the opening with foil tape be a stupid idea?
 
Take the two 10mm bolts off of the primary air control and make sure the assembly is adjusting properly. Was this stove moved between this year and last?

Also, carefully inspect the top cover of the stove and make sure that it is not warped and that the gasket along the perimeter is making a good seal.

Is it possible you are over-loading the stove? Did you burn seasoned oak last year too? If you load the Castine full to the baffle with dry wood, the stove can easily get away from you once the wood fires. Oak is one of the densest woods with roughly 25MBtu's/Cord. If you load fewer pieces, the stove is easier to control.
 
Not ever having had a runaway I can't say with any authority but why can't one just open the stove door wide and basically turn the stove into a fireplace to stop a runaway? I've done a lot of fireplace burning and never had a too hot fire. Anyone tried it?
 
It is possible I'm overloading the firebox with the Oak. I never had that problem before in 10 or so years of burning but maybe since this wood is more seasoned than usual. I am going to start loading less and mixing in some lower BTU wood with the oak.

I do slide the stove forward and backward to clean the flue, that's the only movement. It is possible I pulled the top plate out-of-whack by doing so. Any incense smoke near the top seal didn't get drawn in so it made me think it was OK.

It's funny you mention opening the door. I thought of doing that the other day when the deflector was glowing with 750 stove top temps and raging secondaries. I didn't open it but stuffed foil in the air intake instead to get it under control. What would happen if you simply opened the door during an overfire?
 
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