Why can't stove pipe be used as a chimney?

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Thanks for all the info.
Stove still isn't installed. Busy with work, and still undecided on how to do this. The biggest question is to go straight up thru the roof or go thru the wall and then up.
I've also been trying to find some stove pipe for cheap. No luck thus far.

I did find this though. Is this a good deal? I was hesitant to put it on here in fear of somebody snatching it out from under me, but oh well.
If I ran stovepipe up to the exterior wall, then a double/triple wall pipe going thru the wall, then the pipe in the ad should get me above my garage. Or damn close.
http://cincinnati.craigslist.org/mat/2071610725.html
 
Looks like a good deal, especially where it appears to include the support bracket, cap & clamps.

A few things to check on:

1) make sure the parts are in good condition

2) I can't tell the brand from the photo - make sure it's a brand/type that you can get additional parts for.

For example, when I did my chimney last year, I spent:

$500 for 20' of 6" Simpson Duravent ($100 each for 5 4' pcs) unused from a guy on CL. Would have been $167 each new, I believe.

Had to order: (prices rough - best guess at remembering)

Tee $125
cap $50
Thimble $35
2' pipe for thru the wall/thimble $80
clamps $30

I made the bracket for the tee, as a standard one wouldn't have worked in my situation.

Already had the inside stovepipe - was just converting the outside run from plain stovepipe to class A.

Don
 
I know a guy that got some 1/4" 8" diameter well casing and welded it to the top of his shop stove and ran it straight up through the roof. This is an all steel building so no combustible framing around the pipe on the ceiling. His method of cleaning the chimney is to let it burn out when it catches fire. I think he is nuts but he thinks it is a great idea. That CL deal looks good to me.
 
While I am all about the wood stove..

When I work on my track bikes in the winter, and or her Cobra, I use a torpedo heater to warm it up. $200 and done. You got 120v in there it looks like, just open the door a bit for airflow.. or in my case, cooling, because I got my torpedo at a garage sale and it will flat cook me out of the garage if closed up or run for real long. 75Kbtu's.. lol.
 
Dakotas Dad said:
While I am all about the wood stove..

When I work on my track bikes in the winter, and or her Cobra, I use a torpedo heater to warm it up. $200 and done. You got 120v in there it looks like, just open the door a bit for airflow.. or in my case, cooling, because I got my torpedo at a garage sale and it will flat cook me out of the garage if closed up or run for real long. 75Kbtu's.. lol.

X2 I use a propane torpedo in my barn, easy, clean, and fast. Cost me $100 at home depot plus the tank, but I already had a few of them for my Travel Trailer so I just use them. Some day though I'd like to fix my overhead Molene heater, just need to take it down and figure out what's locked up on it. I only heat my barn periodically and when I do I want it warm now, it would cost WAY too much to heat my barn continuosly on propane, but for the amount of time I heat it up it wouldn't be cost effective or convenent to use wood for my purpose.
 
I've several torpedo heaters, and propane top hat heaters available to me.
I was wanting to keep somewhat of a continuous fire/heat going during the winter months.
I'm in the concrete construction biz so once it turns cold and stays cold/snowy, I'll have alot of time off.
And as you can see from the pics of the garage, all my days off will be spent in the garage working on the bikes for the upcoming race season.
I also dabble in buying and selling bikes at auctions, fixing them and reselling or parting them out.

I will be in my garage for 8 hrs a day and then some for maybe 2 months at a time....I feel that wood, would be the cheapest way to go.

I also don't want the bikes to see below freezing temps for any extended length of time. Yes they are winterized, batteries out, etc...

My prior residence had an attached garage so heat wasn't a problem. This is my lst winter with this unattached garage.
 
In that case, esspecially if you have wood availible, wood will obviously be the cheapest way to go. A 30lb tank will last me about 20 hours with my heater, so at $24 to fill it it'd cost around $200 a month to heat that way. For me though I'll probably go through one maybe 2 tanks a month if I have a big project.
 
Welcome to the forum, I got nothing to add beyond considering used stuff (craigslist et al, but someone touched on that already).

I do have a question though--does that "WATER WETTER" stuff actually work?
 
spirilis said:
I do have a question though--does that "WATER WETTER" stuff actually work?

It does! I used it in my old Jeep Wagoneer when I was towing a trailer through the mountains. I was over heating badly, found this stuff in an auto parts store and it brough my temps right back in line.
 
spirilis said:
Welcome to the forum, I got nothing to add beyond considering used stuff (craigslist et al, but someone touched on that already).

I do have a question though--does that "WATER WETTER" stuff actually work?

Yes, WATER WETTER does work.
In most motorcycle roadracing organizations, anti-freeze is not allowed in the bikes. The reason being that anti-freeze is almost impossible to get off the track surface compared to oil.
We, racers, use distilled water and WATER WETTER instead of anti-freeze.

At this time of year, I have to drain/flush all the bikes and I put in 100% antifreeeze.
I also take the batteries out and bring them inside.
The oil is changed, no matter how fresh it may be, and I fill the entire crankcase with oil (overfill) so that as much of the rods and crank are submersed in oil. That is done to prevent any corrosion that may happen.
Fresh oil is put in because used oil breaks down and becomes acidic and the oil will naturally have moisture in it from normal use of the motor, which can all lead to rust if the motor doesn't run for a few months.
 
So I found another ad for stove pipe/chimney pipe.
About 20' of double wall insulated pipe, cleanout/elbow, cap and a 3' section to go through the wall.
This was used as a 'thru-the-wall' setup, so I've decided that's how I'm doing the garage. I just don't want to cut a hole in the metal, corrugated roof. Plus, I'd have to buy more pieces to make it a 'thru-the-roof' install.
I got all the pipe in the pictures for $175. The AURORA stove with dual fans was $100. Dog was free.

Hopefully I'll have her up and smoking this weekend.

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Awesome! That's probably at least $600 in pipe brand new, good score. ;)
 
Look, I am not some kind of prude or snob, but free or not, I don't think you should let that dog smoke, this weekend or any other..

;-)
 
gapman789 said:
Guys, thanks for the great info.

Where to start....The garage would only be heated periodically throughout the winter. Maybe once a month, for a week at a time, or a couple of days a week.
My occupation is concrete construction so I'm going to have alot of down time this winter. Which gives me time to work on my roadracing motorcycles. End of the racing season maintenance basically.

Money is an issue but so is safety. Because of the limited time that I will actually be spending in the garage during the cold months, it's hard to justify spending $700+ for double wall pipe to make a chimney out of.

I know some folks won't like my answer, but the truth is that there are LOTS of folks using single wall chimney pipe just fine with no issues. We used it in our Yurt for two years. We were toasty warm and I had very little creosote buildup even though we had over 14' of pipe outside. I installed a clean out T at the bottom with a cap so I could regularly inspect the chimney, but there was never more than 1/4" or so of the dry crumbly stuff.....I would burn a nice hot fire once a week or so to keep the pipe clean. The only real downside IMHO is that the single wall pipe doesn't last long outdoors, 3-6 before it rusts to the point of needing replacing. We don't have our Yurt insured, so being up to code really wasn't an issue for us.

We also have several neighbors with smaller cabins and they are all using single wall pipe outdoors, and they have been for many, many years......


NP
 
Dakotas Dad said:
Look, I am not some kind of prude or snob, but free or not, I don't think you should let that dog smoke, this weekend or any other..

;-)

lol. Good point. Especially since I've never smoked in 41yrs.
 
Well, here it is....Just did the install today....No fire as of yet...wanted to check in here lst and I had a question or two for yas.

First, notice the pipe going from the stove to the wall...I know it looks like stove pipe going thru the wall, but there is 4" of double wall insulated pipe on the inside of the wall plus 4" of double wall pipe going thru the wall, and that 12" piece of stove pipe is just being used to give me 4' of clearance from the wall...If I removed that inside black ring, you'd be able to see the double wall pipe.

Question is, is the stove pipe an issue for being over top of the double wall? Or should I get an 8" to 6" connector coming out of the stove with 6" stove pipe instead of 8" and then meet up with the double wall pipe going thru the wall? Make sense?
The more I think about it, common sense tells me that the stove pipe must be connected to the inner wall of the double wall insulated pipe.

And, does the height of my chimney look ok? It is very close to 10' away from the roof if I measure over horizontally from the cap to the roof.
Also, that is 16"x16" of a heavy galvanized steel on either side of the wall where the pipe goes thru.
I also removed all the wall insulation in that 16" area.

And, lol, I realize my support under the cleanout isn't optimal..but it is decorative stone, right?
There has to be some type of support at that 90 degree . I'll have to rig another support to move the block to get to the cleanout when the time comes.

How's it look to the pros?

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