Combining wood/pellets/oil

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Lukas060606

New Member
Nov 28, 2010
37
CT Shoreline
Hi all,

I'm new to the forums, but have been reading them for five years or so now. First, a little bit of my history. I bought the house I currently own just about five years ago. I have a six acre wooded lot, and I'd have to say the memories of cutting wood with my dad influenced my home buying mood. The house has an oil furnace, with a DHW coil, an old school "all or nothing" coal/wood furnace with a DHW coil, plus a Whitfield Advantage II pellet stove in the finished basement. Heating is through hot water baseboards, or by the pellet stove's hot air. I should mention I also have six kids, so the wood cutting took a back seat as the younger ones took up a huge chunk of my "free" time. Now that they are older and.......ummm....less demanding of my time, I'm thinking about some things:

First, the coal/wood furnace is what I would call "semi-series" with the return line being controllable through manual ball valves to go directly into the oil burner, or by switching three of these valves, diverting the return to the wood/coal and then going through the oil. I have no problem with that setup if it were only me, but sometimes the wife needs to manage it, and getting behind the furnaces isn't easy, and it can be confusing. On top of that, I can't describe the excessive amount of piping that has no function whatsoever in the system. It seems to me the person that did the piping didn't have a clue and included everything that popped into his head on a just-in-case basis. As an example, the wood/coal supply to the oil return (remember it is series right now) has a tee that theoretically feeds an alternate side loop zone valve (that's never been wired), that goes straight out to the zones without going through the oil furnace. That would be fine if there were two circulator pumps, but there is only one, and there is no way to open/close the ball valves to get the one pump to supply the wood/coal only. Oh, did I forget to mention that there is also a third side loop that swoops around the zone valve (literally a 12" loop) that has nothing but a ball valve in it? If I'm the one that is missing something here, I'd really like to be educated.

Second, I want to make this system parallel and as automated as possible. I want to take the circulator pump, attach it to the single return line (after my three zones converge), then split the return line in two. Each will have a zone valve, and one will be open and one will be closed. The homebrew controls for this are something I can manage. On the supply side, I want to remove all the ridiculous piping and have the oil supply and the wood/coal supply feed into the main supply line and then leave the piping for the zones remain as-is.

Third, I want to automate the DHW in a similar fashion. If I install solenoid valves on each of the CW supplies to the tankless coils and set up the controls so one is open and one is closed, then I can accomplish this. The HW out of the coils is properly set up as parallel now, so If I install the valves on the supply lines, this should be the easy part of the project.

Now that I've given you the background, I guess the only question I have is the concern I have over the parallel system. In the existing system, the oil furnace always stays "warm", even during the warm months. With what I want to do, the oil furnace will hit room temperature when I'm using the wood/coal in the winter. Will this be detrimental to the oil furnace? It took me a long time to get to the question, but I am hoping you folks can tell me if there's anything wrong with any of the background information I provided.

My second question has to do with the Whitfield. As it is in the basement, and heat rises, I want to get that super warm room to share with the rest of the house. My idea of the easiest way to accomplish this would be to cut in a floor register directly over a ceiling register, stick a duct around it, and let physics take it from there. Anything wrong with that appproach? If I'm all wet, and someone tells me so, I'll certainly listen.

That's it for now. I'm glad to be part of the community and hope to help whenever I can. Stay warm.
 
I am new to the forum, but I do have experience ih hydronic design. Running the systems parallel is not a problem. Just make sure you have a backflow between the two. Set the oil Aquastat at 140 or so to act as a backup if the other system goes down. Tarm uses this in there wood parallel systems. You could also set up a buffer to increase the efficiency of the system. Also, design carefully and don't be too afraid to add a circ. pump, they are more reliable that zone valves.

As for the register, I would put a foot long piece of duct down into the basement with a heat slug and a trap door to close in case of fire. Physics is great, but it does not care if you have nice warm air rising or a raging fire getting pulled into the upstairs. (my uncle is a retired fire investigator and made ne cap teh laundry chute in my basement for this very reason.)

Guess that's all I know
 
Hey Blackslax,

Thanks for the knowledge you've shared with me. I guess at this point I think the only thing that i was thinking that doesn't match what you wrote is that I wanted to completely shut down the oil when the wood/coal is burning. With it parallel and out of the loop, the oil will cool down to room temp. The way the previous owner rigged it so the oil didn't ever fire when the wood/coal was going was to use a thermostat as a jumper across the T-T on the oil burner motor. The thermostat was working as a simple on-off switch, not a temperature regulator. If the temperature on the thermostat was set higher than ambient, the "switch" for the burner was on. When set below ambient, the "switch" was off. Aquastat and "real" thermostats handled the real requests as in any normal system. The way it works now is the oil is always hot, even when off, since it is in series. If I do things the way I am thinking (and I'm not sure if I'm right or not yet) the oil will be completely shut down and will have no hot water flowing through it. The reason I'm wondering if this is OK or not is that my furnace is designed to always be on and hot, even in summer, since the DHW coil is in there too. If I create a situation where this furnace is going through cycles of being on and running, or off and cold, I'm wondering if I'm creating a future problem since that is not the way it was designed to work. Things like expansion and contraction pop into my head. By the way, I design buildings for a living and have seen what happens when materials go through thermal cycles.

I like what you said about the ducting. The furnace stuff is somewhat new to me, but ducting is completely new to me. This will be the first project I ever try with ducting. Is a "heat slug" a powered fan? And could you give me a link or more info on the "trap door"? I'm thinking it is a device that when it senses abnormal (raging fire) temperatures it slams shut? It's funny you mentioned the laundry chute.....I have one of those in my house and never gave it much thought. The way I thought of it for residential single family houses was that unless the stairwell/stairways are fire separated, the smoke and fire is travelling from level to level no matter what, and that's a bigger "path" than a duct or chute. You got me thinking about more now than when I started......

Thanks
 
On the register:
build a box like the one attached. the top flange ( 1" turned out) gets screwed to the bottom of the floor. the bottom flange is (1/2" turned in) has an arrow on it. A piece of heavy sheetmetal or 1/16" will rest against, or be hinged to this edge. the heat slug is a composite material that melts at low temp. It has a wire loop coming out of each end of it. one will be attached to the side of the box with a tapper screw, and the other will be attached to top of the trapped door in the same manner. Be sure to have the slug exposed to the heat coming up the box. (you could also put a spring behind the trapped door by drilling a tiny hole in the box and threading the end of spring through it.) If there is a fire, the heat will melt the slug and the door will fall shut. Instant fire brake.

On the boiler. Sorry, made a mistake. I was actually doing a design last night and incorporated their control in your system. You are correct on the burner operating. I have been designing systems lately with add on pellet/wood and a buffer tank. we use a White Rodgers control that monitors the temp of the buffer. The control is configured so the the oil burner is on the normally closed loop and the temp of the buffer (or other boiler) opens the contact because the buffer is hot. The same control is used to close the contact for the circulator or zone valve when the system requires heat. Basically, the signal for heat demand by the oil auquastat is interupted by the White rodgers and instead tells the circualtor to come on. White Rodgers 16E09-101.
 

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