vent through attic

A pellet stove does not need a draft so you don't have to vent above the roofline... unless it's the best for your situation.

If you go out the wall you can simply terminate the vent horizontally or put in a 2-4' rise... having a rise will allow some draft which is helpful if you have a power outage and the stove stops.

Here's some info....

http://www.nevelsstoves.com/pellet-stove-venting.html

Our system goes thru the attic space. The installers built some sort of wood framing for the piping to go thru, and the area around the pipe was cleared of combustibles directly around it.

Given the fact that the Class 6 piping has insulation in it, I feel relatively "safe" with the installation. Knowing that the whole system was professionally installed, and inspected by both our Chimney Sweep, and the Town Inspectors, adds a level of confidence that it will be fine.




-Soupy1957

flashvictim said:

Hello,
Now that I'm going with 100% proper vent pipe, I was wondering about going through my attic. I will be going through about a 3-4' section through the attic. Are there any special precautions of going through the attic? Will the pipe need to have a certain amount of clearance around it? I was just worried about all the junk, wires, and how dusty an attic can get and if the pipe would be hot enough to ignite anything? Proper way of doing it is my goal.
Thank you all and I hope you all had a Happy Thanksgiving!!
Ben

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hey flash i vent through my attic i used an attic shield from simpson dura vent http://www.northlineexpress.com/ite...elletVent-Pro-Attic-Insulation-Shield-4PVP-IS im sure other places sell it also worked great with no issues

The pipe will need to meet whatever clearances it specifies. Most pellet pipe is 1" clearance in the USA. So you just move all the insulation and suck 1" away from the pipe and put in an attic shield as was already pointed out.

The stove itself, and the pipe you purchase should have instructions. Read them.

soupy1957, cant tell in that video if the shingles go all the way around the roof flashing or did they paint the bottom tail of the flashing black to hide it? I see tons of flashings installed with the shingles over them all the way around, which defeats the purpose of a "flashing", since it is not flashed in properly at that point.

Seems to me (since the last time I was on my roof) that a percentage of the base flange was visible, around the pipe flashing. In fact, I recall having called the Contractor (we recently had a major reconstruction of our home, which included new roofing), because I saw exposed flange material, and wanted to know if they had NEGLECTED putting shingling over it. Seems to me they indicated it was intentionally left exposed to some degree, but the rest was under the shingles all around.

The installation you see in the slideshow, is about two months prior to the reconstruction work beginning, and the new roof put on at the end.

-Soupy1957

Yeah you want the tail of the flashing to be exposed, just like the tail end of every shingle is exposed. The metal flashing takes place of some of the shingles and it acts in the same way, under on top and over on the bottom.

Looks like at the original install they took shingles off and put them over the flashing, which is extra work and wrong. Luckily when your contractor re-did the roof he flashed it properly.

flashvictim said:

Yeah, the way I'm venting means I have to go through the attic. I have a plan with clearance issues and flashing and such. Sounds like I am on the right track considering all the feedback I got. I will have no combustibles within a foot of pipe except where I go through the roof and rafter area. I've got flashing for those areas + am going to surround the 3" pipe through attic
with insulation and then put it through a larger pipe. Kind of a double piping deal with insulation between them. I think this will work ok. Stay tuned as I am surely going to need more advice. Thank you all!!
Ben

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No! that will not work OK, if you wrap the pipe in insulation it will overheat and then the extra heat will probably start your roof on fire where the pipe passes through it.

Instead of inventing new ideas and your own pipe system, just read the instructions and follow them. Most likely you only need a 1" AIR SPACE clearance from the pipe. When I say air space, I mean AIR, nothing else. I do not care what material it is, and if it will start on fire or not.

I used a firestop for clearance through the ceiling and the flashing cleared the combustibles in the roof. My pipe vendor said to use screws to support the pipe when going vertical and the firestop has a clamp that will also support it. The screws I needed had to be 3/16" to prevent going through the inner wall of the pipe. Also be sure to use the right sealant Rutland 500 degree silicone. I used some 1400 degree sealant that hardened up like cement and wouldnt seal. Big mistake.

flashvictim said:

Thanks inferno...I did not think of that. I'll just go with the airspace around it. I apprerciate it!! Hey, since I sure do got your attention (a good thing)...I'm running about 2' horizontal to a clean out tee and then up about 10'. Then I have to juke a bit using 2 45's then another couple of feet to the cap. I'm thinking that 4" pipe may be the way to go. What do you think?
Thanks,
Ben

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Check the install manual for your stove. They should have some sort of a chart or table telling you which size venting to use.

flashvictim said:

Thanks inferno...I did not think of that. I'll just go with the airspace around it. I apprerciate it!! Hey, since I sure do got your attention (a good thing)...I'm running about 2' horizontal to a clean out tee and then up about 10'. Then I have to juke a bit using 2 45's then another couple of feet to the cap. I'm thinking that 4" pipe may be the way to go. What do you think?
Thanks,
Ben

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I'm getting your EVL of 19. So 4" is what you need to use.

To as the sum of Equivalent Vertical Length (EVL). All of the venting restrictions have been assigned EVL values.
1.Each 45 degree elbow = 3 EVL
2.Each 90 degree elbow and Tees with cleanout = 5 EVL
3.Each foot of horizontal run = 1 EVL
4.Each foot of Vertical run = 0.5 EVL
5.Elevations above 3000 ft with an EVL of 6 or more must adapt to 4-inch diameter vent pipe.
EVL of more than 15 needs 4"