will this plumbing work
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you will want to have return temperature protection for the boiler. Here is a drawing of one common method to accomplish that. The 3 way thermostatic valve assures the boiler is protected. Using a tank like this provides piping for the boiler loop, air elimination and hydraulic separation between the boiler and the heat zones.
This drawing does introduce the outdoor reset concept for the heating zones. It is the best way to leverage the tank temperatures but not required as it does add additional costs.
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This drawing does introduce the outdoor reset concept for the heating zones. It is the best way to leverage the tank temperatures but not required as it does add additional costs.
hr
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I see you are showing return water protection. I think I would put the pressure relief valve at the output side at the boiler. Expansion tank can tie in most anywhere, for all practical purposes. I ran my non-captive air tank off from the return side of the storage tanks. You will need an air removal vent in a high point. You do not need two loops for your heat loop. One loop and tee off, with one pump, requires zone valves and controls, OR one loop, with each zone having it's own pump.
Make sure you use flow checks in your zone pump. Even with an internal flowcheck, I am getting some boiler circulation through my heat exchanger instead of all through the storage tank (with no call for heat).
DISCLAIMER-- I am neither a plumber nor a heating specialist, just a determined handyman. This advise may be worth just what you paid for it.
Check the "stickies" at the top of the Boiler Room page for more good ideas.
Tom
Make sure you use flow checks in your zone pump. Even with an internal flowcheck, I am getting some boiler circulation through my heat exchanger instead of all through the storage tank (with no call for heat).
DISCLAIMER-- I am neither a plumber nor a heating specialist, just a determined handyman. This advise may be worth just what you paid for it.
Check the "stickies" at the top of the Boiler Room page for more good ideas.
Tom
Yankee said:
The reason for two loops is that one is that one is in the shop and one is in the house with a shed inbetween with boiler.
woodsmaster said:
Will you be flowing both ways through the wye strainers?
Maybe just one strainer off boiler loop?
Get the internal flow check on the boiler circulator to minimize thermosiphoning (like I had). The disadvantage of Fig 5-9 is that you have to heat storage first. However, hat is what I do since I have an in-tank heat exchanger because of my design. I don't find heating the storage a problem. I do not see any domestic hot water. Are you not going there with maybe a side-arm heat exchanger?
Hunderliggur said:
Yes I do plan on adding a side-arm to the water heater in the house loop. I wanted to see if what I had drawn would work before I added that to the drawing. I plan on using thermostatic heads on my panel rads. would I
leave that pump run all the time and add a zone valve for the side-arm ? I plan on getting the integral flow valve on all pumps.
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