Husky Splitter Questions

  • Active since 1995, Hearth.com is THE place on the internet for free information and advice about wood stoves, pellet stoves and other energy saving equipment.

    We strive to provide opinions, articles, discussions and history related to Hearth Products and in a more general sense, energy issues.

    We promote the EFFICIENT, RESPONSIBLE, CLEAN and SAFE use of all fuels, whether renewable or fossil.
Status
Not open for further replies.
mayhem

mayhem

Minister of Fire
May 8, 2007
1,956
Saugerties, NY
Borrowed our local fire chief's 22 ton Husky splitter (the TSC one). Works great, but I want to be sure to return it better than I got it so I have a couple questions. I ran a few tanks of gas with seafoam in it to clean out some of the gunk...starts alot easier now.

- It needs an oil change...may have never had one...whats in there is gray and gross. What is the mfr recommended weight and quantity so I cna change it for him?
- The auto return mechanism doesn't seem to work very well. When I remove the splits and push up on the controller, its supopsed to stick in the return position till it gets the cylinder to the home position. But it keeps popping out, seems to get slightly better when its good and warmed up, but it never really works properly...does this indicate an adjustment required or a bad controller?
- There is a definite metallic vibration going on when the cylinder is either idle or moving towards a round, when it contacts the round the noice goes away...I haven't found any obvious loose bolts or broken weld seams, but I want to see about tracking down the problem.
- His 2" ball and hitch for his Explorer got swiped so he can't tow it, figured I'd buy him a new one as a thank you.

I want to take care of these minor issues for him..I'm the kind of guy that never borrows a car without filling the tank when I return it and I just want to be a good guy and take care of a couple thigns for him, even though I didn't cause these to happen...he didn't have to lend it to me, I want to do right by him. As an added bonus, taking good care of other people's equipment usually makes them want to lend it to me again when I need it.

Thanks.
 
I put in Synthetic 5w-30, dont recall the amount.

Finding the plug is a challenge. It is on the bottom of the engine and you have to get at it from under the frame (someone on this forum posted this info for me a couple months ago).
 
No answers to your questions . . . but a statement.

It's guys like you who cause folks to continue to lend out their equipment . . . and I hear ya . . . I do the same thing . . . if I borrow a tool I make sure it is returned in the same or better condition.
 
Since I posted year or 2 back about the oil change being a major pain to do, if you tilt the splitter back on its foot, you will find this plug in the bottom of the engine that is 4 sided. It takes a universal adapter that will work for loosening the plug. I would undo the plug till its ready to come out and then tilt the splitter back down and then take the plug out. Or you can do like I did the first time, get down on your knees or back and fumble around till you find the plug.

My splitter also sticks on return and I don't know the answer for that one. I think the engine takes 30 weight oil as that is what I got with mine.

Hope someone else can help you with your other questions.

Per my owners manual for my 22 ton splitter it takes 30 weight oil and 18 oz volume.
Shipper
 
5W-30 or 10W-30 is pretty standard for small engines.

It sound like the auto return detent needs an adjustment. Goto the ls3000 diagram on page 4. Even if this is not the brand of valve, it should have a similar setup.
http://www.northerntool.com/downloa...o&cm_ite=log+splitter+valve+detent+adjustment
The reason it "gets better" after it warms up, is that cold oil has more viscosity, that takes a higher pressure to move, thus causing the valve to "think" it has reached its detent release pressure prematurely. Pretty easy adjustment.

For the metallic vibration you may want to check the lovejoy connection between the pump and motor. If the rubber spider is broke/missing it can cause what you are hearing. Just an idea.
 
Is the auto return detent part #5 in that diagram? Adjust it by scrwing in or out and by what amount? I'm guess small adjustments like a quarter turn?

Thanks!
 
mayhem said:
Is the auto return detent part #5 in that diagram? Adjust it by scrwing in or out and by what amount? I'm guess small adjustments like a quarter turn?

Thanks!
Click to expand...

Yes, #5. You will want to increase pressure on the detent, so you will want to turn it in. And yes, go by small adjustments, it may only take a quarter turn, but the easy way is to adjust - start the machine and move the cylinder forward a bit and then throw the lever into return. The machine should make a light strain noise - similar to when a log is first contacted, and the lever should pop back to the center position. Repeat until it works properly.

If the machine strains or "whines" before it pops back into position - you have gone too far.
 
Sometimes as a valve gets used a notch gets worn into the detent no longer providing a lip for the detent ball to ride over. With most valves the handle can be removed and the spool rotated 180 degrees, this provides a new surface for the detent ball to ride on. DO NOT remove spool just rotate in place.
 
Cold temps will also cause the detent not to function properly becaue the fluid is thicker.
 
I wamt to recommend checking that the hydraulic fluid in the tank is up to the proper level.

I had an similar issue once and the levels were low.
 
As for the rattle, my new Huskee drove me nuts. It is the new design of the beam - the wedge riding in the U-shape rail.....it rattles around in there a bit until it reaches the split, then- no more rattle. This is normal. No worries.
 
Ran another tank of gas through it this past weekend, almost time to give it up now. It took awhile to get it to start because it was about 2 degrees out or so, but whne it finally fired and stayed running the auto return worked flawlwssly for the whole day.

I did check the hydaulic fluid leves and if anything I think it might be high...the first time I used it I had about 1/4 cup ooze out of the filler hole. The thing is on a slight incline so I didn't trust the level reading which showed above the hash marks. It no longer leaks and I tightened it down good and snug.

Finalyl saw the oil drain plug the other day too...what a lousy splot. I might have to buy an extension pipe for the guy as long as I'm changing it anyway. I bet its never been changed since it was new.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.

Similar threads

C
Looking for splitter, might build one
Replies
20
Views
2K
The Gear
clr8ter
C
D
Need advice/opinions
Replies
19
Views
885
The Wood Shed
davidon
D
Nick Mystic
Bought my first battery operated chainsaw
Replies
26
Views
3K
The Gear
Wood1Dennis
Wood1Dennis
H
Chimney Cap came loose, Sweep claims I had multiple fires and liner needs replaced.
Replies
10
Views
2K
The Hearth Room - Wood Stoves and Fireplaces
BC_Josh
BC_Josh
G
Log splitter is dead - what could be wrong?
Replies
72
Views
6K
The Gear
VirginiaIron
VirginiaIron
Top Bottom
Back