Englander 30 scares me sometimes

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Crabby

Member
Nov 13, 2007
124
Ohio
Just when you think you have it figured out. i always set me damper with the handle even with the ash lip, it usually runs around 550 or 600. tonite i had it going like normal and looked at it after awhile and it was 750 on the stove top. i am so afraid of this thing overfiring while i am not around. my stove pipe it turning white as well, but i think it's just the pipe i got from the Do It Center. the pipe temp is usually 350 or 400 when the stove is cruisin. wood it's well seasoned as well, which this year i am finally ahead of the game on wood and it is much nicer having dry dry wood. maybe you 30 users can help me out a little
 
It's all relative. If I start from dead cold and have a full load, that load will burn just fine (under 700 on the stove top) w/ 1/4 of the draft's spring handle showing past the ash lip.

If it is a normal refill w/ very nominal coals (just enough to get the next load going, but no need for kindling, blowing, etc.) then I put the end of the spring flush w/ the edge of the ash lip.

If I load the stove w/ large hot coals / actively flaming anything in there, then I need to close it down all the way and even sometimes close down the pipe damper on the chimney.

That's what I've found. But other variables such as the whether you are loading w/ splits or rounds, the size of them, etc. Come into play as well.

pen
 
Mine used to run at 700-750 easily until I put a blower on it. Now the heat goes into the basement and stays in the house and the stove runs about 500-525.
 
pen said:
It's all relative. If I start from dead cold and have a full load, that load will burn just fine (under 700 on the stove top) w/ 1/4 of the draft's spring handle showing past the ash lip.

If it is a normal refill w/ very nominal coals (just enough to get the next load going, but no need for kindling, blowing, etc.) then I put the end of the spring flush w/ the edge of the ash lip.

If I load the stove w/ large hot coals / actively flaming anything in there, then I need to close it down all the way and even sometimes close down the pipe damper on the chimney.

That's what I've found. But other variables such as the whether you are loading w/ splits or rounds, the size of them, etc. Come into play as well.

pen

well i must be doing ok then, i just think last night the wife loaded it up before i got home and it may have been a little warm when she did, because the blower was on and it was still climbing . thanks for the reply, i feel better about it now
 
Was that 750 with the blower on? If so thats a............ kinda hot. I run the little brother 13 and she easily cruises at 650 with hardwood and a good coal base, no fan. I've found that sometimes if I want to load her up I'll let some coals burnt down to around 300 stove top with the air closed from the last load. I learned last year that a large very hot coal base is not your friend if you intend to fully load.
 
ckarotka said:
Was that 750 with the blower on? If so thats a............ kinda hot. I run the little brother 13 and she easily cruises at 650 with hardwood and a good coal base, no fan. I've found that sometimes if I want to load her up I'll let some coals burnt down to around 300 stove top with the air closed from the last load. I learned last year that a large very hot coal base is not your friend if you intend to fully load.

yeah i think it was with the fan on i can't remember if it was the speeds not that high. it just gets hot when it feels like it i guess. pretty much has a mind of it own.
 
Don't have a 30 but I find loads like to be adjusted a little differently. Depending on wood type, what temp it was reloaded, type of coal bed and the outside temp. when I load. We're now getting temps. in the 20's and my stove is getting tougher to control, it's only going to get worse as temps. drop. I have a pipe damper but it's hard to explain to the wife when/how it needs to be used since every situation is a little different.
 
rdust said:
Don't have a 30 but I find loads like to be adjusted a little differently. Depending on wood type, what temp it was reloaded, type of coal bed and the outside temp. when I load. We're now getting temps. in the 20's and my stove is getting tougher to control, it's only going to get worse as temps. drop. I have a pipe damper but it's hard to explain to the wife when/how it needs to be used since every situation is a little different.
Tougher to control because of the extra draft due to the chimney working better in the cold?
 
oldspark said:
Tougher to control because of the extra draft due to the chimney working better in the cold?

Yes, 30' of insulated chimney that drafts like a seagull behind an aircraft carrier(line from BB). :lol:
 
This is my first year with a NC-30 and I have made the mistake of loading 4 locust splits on a hot bed of coals. Won't be making that mistake again! Had the draft completely shut and temp kept rising to 650.
 
Really? On every re-load lately im hitting 750 for about an hour with the damper CLOSED. Then cruises at like 650 for a while. This is with the blower set on halfway. This morning I hit 850...
 
are you sure your door gasket is sealing? Sounds like you've got a leak to me. When the stove cools some. Take a dollar bill and close it in the door then see how it pulls out. If it pulls w/ very little resistance somewhere, then your door isn't sealing well.

If this is fine, what kind of wood are you burning? Have you installed a key damper in the chimney yet?

Did you knock a hole in your baffle plates by accident?

pen
 
Also make sure the baffle boards are pushed to one side leaving no gap in the center between them. If there is a gap between them it creates a hot spot on the stove top.
 
Baffle boards are in good shape and I try to keep the center gap closed. I'll check the door seal this afternoon but Im fairly certain its in good shape. This temp is with only secondary action.
 
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