Ever since installing my Solo 40 I have had it steam hammering when gets burning hot. I have tried to purge the air I don't know how many times, probably ten times with a high flow pump. Does anyone have a cut-away of the boiler, I mean the flow pattern internally. I have tried pumping from drain thru supply and return lines, I tried to configure it a bunch of ways I could possible imagine. I moved my air remover from my return line to the supply line. Any ideas would be appreciated.
Tarm Solo 40 water flow
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I had the same problem. I finally replaced the manual vent with an auto vent in the 3/8" tapping on the top of the boiler under the casing.
Worked great!
Worked great!
Also the hammering sounds like its coming from the lower part of the boiler by the bottom door. I also use a Taco 007-5 pump, went to the plumbing store yesterday and got talked out of getting a three speed grundfos pump, I was thinking I needed more volume.
Chris Hoskin
TarmSalesGuy
steam hammering is not unheard of when a boiler is burning exceptionally well. My guess is you have great firewood and long burn times - just what you want. You may, of course, have some trapped air too. What is your system pressure? You might try increasing your system pressure. This will help keep the air entrained and allow your vents to remove it over time and if you do NOT have any air in the system will minimize the steam hammer under maximum burn rate conditions.
We do not recommend using an automatic air vent long term on top of the boiler. This type of vent is prone to leaking and because this particular location is under insulation and the boiler jacket, you could have a small leak for a long time before you ever noticed. If the system has purged the air, I would recommend going back to the 'coin' type vent.
Chris
We do not recommend using an automatic air vent long term on top of the boiler. This type of vent is prone to leaking and because this particular location is under insulation and the boiler jacket, you could have a small leak for a long time before you ever noticed. If the system has purged the air, I would recommend going back to the 'coin' type vent.
Chris
Installing an auto vent was the only solution for me. I came off the tapping with a 3/8" ball valve then the auto vent. Plenty of room. If the vent leaks I close the valve and replace it.
Chris Hoskin
TarmSalesGuy
Chuck, so you mean with the added length of the ball valve the vent is up outside of the insulation and sheet steel jacket? That does seem to be a good trick.
Did you put a nipple on first to get the valve itself up where you can access it, too?
Did you put a nipple on first to get the valve itself up where you can access it, too?
They do make "street" ball valves, but you have plenty of room for a short nipple and valve there.
RobC
Minister of Fire
If you can start the Tarm circulator pump earlier that may reduce it or eliminate hammer. I had my pump kick on at previously at 160 and dropped it to 150 and that stopped the lower hammering.
When hammer started I had just switched wood to some dry Pine and I think it's burning hotter and faster than my Oak was.
If you decide to change pumps do the math, or ask for help, it can be tricky and you only want to do that once....
I did the air vent under the cover too. When I clean the fire tubes I take both covers off and give a quick look see and vacuum to both sides... Some HY Vents you can take the top off and clean the float etc. Sometimes when you have a leak it's not the nipple on top weeping it's the fact the cover isn't tight. Of course this would only happen at a "high point" that you couldn't see and removing vent was the only solution to get at it ! LOL !
When hammer started I had just switched wood to some dry Pine and I think it's burning hotter and faster than my Oak was.
If you decide to change pumps do the math, or ask for help, it can be tricky and you only want to do that once....
I did the air vent under the cover too. When I clean the fire tubes I take both covers off and give a quick look see and vacuum to both sides... Some HY Vents you can take the top off and clean the float etc. Sometimes when you have a leak it's not the nipple on top weeping it's the fact the cover isn't tight. Of course this would only happen at a "high point" that you couldn't see and removing vent was the only solution to get at it ! LOL !
I tried raising my pressure also, maybe I will try that again. I have a coin vent on top of boiler, is this where some suggested putting the auto vent and what type? The hammering is a lot worse when I am burning real dry birch.
this is the valve:
http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/Mini-Ball-Valve-Kit-1PZB4?Pid=search
You can use a taco hi-vent, bush the valve down with a 3/8X1/8" bushing
http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/Mini-Ball-Valve-Kit-1PZB4?Pid=search
You can use a taco hi-vent, bush the valve down with a 3/8X1/8" bushing
RobC
Minister of Fire
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