I recently had a new Clydesdale cast iron wood burning insert installed in my fireplace, and the sides fit fine, but the top of the arch of the fireplace is just a few inches too high, so you can see into the fireplace and the top of the insert. I was going to have a steel frame fabricated, paint it to match what's there, and slide it behind the existing frame. I've spec'd it out and it seems doable, but the guy at the retailer suggested I use concrete backer board instead of steel, as it will better match the appearance of the cast iron. Has anyone had any experience with this? I gladly welcome other ideas as well.
New insert not a perfect fit... best way to fix
- Thread starter terpsucka
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We use steel plate. 1/8" is very rigid & looks good, too.
Painting the concrete backer board is tough.
It is so porous that it takes a LOT to get good coverage.
Painting the concrete backer board is tough.
It is so porous that it takes a LOT to get good coverage.
CarbonNeutral
Minister of Fire
Not knowing much about inserts, but, could you shim the bottom of the insert instead to bring it up. Then just fill the bottom space with whatever as you won't be able to see it?
Fsappo
Minister of Fire
We use steel plate also. We wash it down with vinegar prior to painting it. You got a nice insert by the way. We sell loads of them and make many happy customers.
Thanks for all the input. Sounds like steel plate is the way to go. I was thinking that it would be better to do a full-surround, rather than just covering the top. I've attached some pics-- What it looks like now, and "photo-shopped" versions of the "just the top" cover and the "full surround" option. Would "full surround" be possible with steel plate? How hard would it be to fab something like that? Thanks again!!
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CarbonNeutral
Minister of Fire
Ah yes, no shimming that 
I would fabricate a small curved section to fill just the gap - the arch looks really good and I wouldn't want to cover it up
I would fabricate a small curved section to fill just the gap - the arch looks really good and I wouldn't want to cover it up
cygnus
Feeling the Heat
if it was mine i would hate to cover that nice brick arch.cut a concrete backer board to fit inside and cover it with something.marble,tile,stone?just a thought.
CarbonNeutral said:Ah yes, no shimming that
I would fabricate a small curved section to fill just the gap - the arch looks really good and I wouldn't want to cover it up
+1
What I'd really like to do is ditch the stock surround entirely, and replace it with something form-fitted to the arch but I wouldn't know where to begin with that, or if it would even be possible.
yes that is what i meant.ditch the stock surround.could we have a pic without the surround on to get a idea
Remove the cast iron surround & make a cardboard template of the opening.
Take both to a sheet metal fabricator so he can get the profile you need
& see the attachment points & fastening hardware.
Take both to a sheet metal fabricator so he can get the profile you need
& see the attachment points & fastening hardware.
EJL923
Minister of Fire
If you were going to just use a sheet surround, just extending the top looks better due to the brick sides that extend up IMO. Buy some sheet steel, use high heat stove paint, and enjoy the warm stove. Deal with it in the summer.
Stop thinking and start burning.
Stop thinking and start burning.
I'd try using concrete board first, cutting a cardboard pattern to fit just inside the edge of the brick, all the way around. That way you preserve the brick look, which is nice, and you are only out the price of the concrete board if you don't like the way it turns out. I think you might be surprised how well you can make it look. So what if it takes a bit of spray paint to get good coverage. You won't be able to tell it from steel when you're done, and you may like the look better.
Lanningjw
Minister of Fire
What an awesome conversation. This place rocks!!
The only option the company offers is a large extender, which costs over $200 and would need to be cut to fit anyway. It's an option, but probably my last resort.
I'll try to post a pic without the stock surround tonight when I get home from work. "Stop thinking and start burning" is good advice. It's a good point that this doesn't NEED to be done before the summer. I'll probably still be thinking about it between now and then anyway... but I won't let it keep me from using it, and I don't need to commit to anything as the stove is totally functional as it is right now.
I could give the backer board a shot... it's less than $10 a sheet, plus an afternoon to cut it to fit just right. Might not be a bad idea to try it out and see how it looks. Then if it passes that test I could move forward with the painting... and be prepared to use a few cans of the stuff. If I don't like the look of that, I could then move on to steel.... sort of moving from a cheapest to more expensive route I guess.
Y'all have convinced me of what I already thought, though... the arch must be saved.
The only option the company offers is a large extender, which costs over $200 and would need to be cut to fit anyway. It's an option, but probably my last resort.
I'll try to post a pic without the stock surround tonight when I get home from work. "Stop thinking and start burning" is good advice. It's a good point that this doesn't NEED to be done before the summer. I'll probably still be thinking about it between now and then anyway... but I won't let it keep me from using it, and I don't need to commit to anything as the stove is totally functional as it is right now.
I could give the backer board a shot... it's less than $10 a sheet, plus an afternoon to cut it to fit just right. Might not be a bad idea to try it out and see how it looks. Then if it passes that test I could move forward with the painting... and be prepared to use a few cans of the stuff. If I don't like the look of that, I could then move on to steel.... sort of moving from a cheapest to more expensive route I guess.
Y'all have convinced me of what I already thought, though... the arch must be saved.
madison
Minister of Fire
Many yrs ago, an employee from were Daksy works in upstate ny created a custom surround for us for a similar brick arched fireplace. He created as Daksy described, a cardboard template and had it fashioned to a set of glass fireplace doors/hearth heatilator. He used a black cement/caulk to help fill the gaps and seal up the air leaks around the brick/cement irregular areas.
Because of this mating with the heatilor/glass doors, it took several trips to get it to fit just right, but could be a little easier working with the reveal of the wood stove insert.
Because of this mating with the heatilor/glass doors, it took several trips to get it to fit just right, but could be a little easier working with the reveal of the wood stove insert.
terpsucka said:
Right on. It might be easier to do your patterns in more than one piece. Make your backer board piece a little too big to start with, then trim it don to fit. You can fill the gaps with some black high temp caulk. I think rather than try to attach it to the stove or the bricks, I would just try to let the fit be a little tight in a few places to kind of wedge it in place, but that is just me.
Once it is painted, you would have to do a really bad job for anyone to notice it. When we are looking at something like this, and then working on it, we are looking at it harder than anyone ever will again. Once you are done, it just becomes part of the background. So don't sweat it too much. take your time, and you can solve this problem very inexpensively, and you'll have the satisfaction of a custom job you did yourself. That's worth something, too.
tfdchief
Minister of Fire
Looks like you are trying to fit a square into a round hole.
If you want a custom look, how about marking the corners of your existing surround, following the curvature of the brick opening overlapping an inch or so. Cut and tape a piece of cardboard to the top, again following the curvature of the opening & take the whole surround down to your local metal shop and have them fab up a custom surround. I think that would look nice and blend in with your nice brick work.
If you want a custom look, how about marking the corners of your existing surround, following the curvature of the brick opening overlapping an inch or so. Cut and tape a piece of cardboard to the top, again following the curvature of the opening & take the whole surround down to your local metal shop and have them fab up a custom surround. I think that would look nice and blend in with your nice brick work.
My comment may be a bit late, but what the heck.
I agree with the other comments on using steel. One-eigth inch is probably about the right thickness. A thicker plate would be too heavy. Check your local Yellow Pages and find a steel fabricator. Those here In Idaho Falls can custom cut any design. They can even cut your name into the steel using water jet technology. Give them a template or the required dimensions. They enter the data into a computer, load the steel onto the cutting table and away they go. My local steel fabricator cut a 1/4 inch custom heart pad for me. I took that to the local powder coating shop and they produced a beautiful looking pad.
By the way, the powder-coated steel that I had fabricated goes on top of a 1/2 inch Micor sheet (made by USG). This meets the requirement for hearth protection against sparks and embers, and the 1.10 R-value for floor protection.
I agree with the other comments on using steel. One-eigth inch is probably about the right thickness. A thicker plate would be too heavy. Check your local Yellow Pages and find a steel fabricator. Those here In Idaho Falls can custom cut any design. They can even cut your name into the steel using water jet technology. Give them a template or the required dimensions. They enter the data into a computer, load the steel onto the cutting table and away they go. My local steel fabricator cut a 1/4 inch custom heart pad for me. I took that to the local powder coating shop and they produced a beautiful looking pad.
By the way, the powder-coated steel that I had fabricated goes on top of a 1/2 inch Micor sheet (made by USG). This meets the requirement for hearth protection against sparks and embers, and the 1.10 R-value for floor protection.
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