Problem. Too hot, with smoke

  • Active since 1995, Hearth.com is THE place on the internet for free information and advice about wood stoves, pellet stoves and other energy saving equipment.

    We strive to provide opinions, articles, discussions and history related to Hearth Products and in a more general sense, energy issues.

    We promote the EFFICIENT, RESPONSIBLE, CLEAN and SAFE use of all fuels, whether renewable or fossil.
Status
Not open for further replies.
jensent said:
JV and Backwoods
We heat almost totally with the stove. Its 8 degrees and calm outside, 72 degrees inside. First floor is 1750sq ft,second floor is unheated as we are remodeling. We have to run the gas forced air furnace if it get much colder or get windy as the stove wont keep up with heat demand. Run the furnace when we first get up in the morning for an hour or so until the stove gets up to temp.
Wood is whatever the tree service dumps in my side yard. That way he doesnt have to pay to use the landfill. He has a list of those who use wood.
When I said damper I meant the air control. It usually stays all the way open on the high burn setting. The bypass is used only for loading and establishing the initial fire. That would be the only time that I would be bypassing the secondary burn as I understand it. (See the videos on the Lopi web site).
We burn 24/7 during the heating season. The chimney was cleaned after 3yrs use and again after 7yrs use. We remove the double wall telescoping stove pipe and clean the chimney from inside the house carefully collecting any deposits. The insulated factory chimney runs straight up over the stove about 20ft. Both cleanings produced about one-half cup of deposits from the chimney. Dealer claimed that if the door glass on the stove stays clean the chimney stays clean. We usually clean the glass about once a week. Dont think we are doing too much wrong. We rally enjoy that stove. Our gas bill runs about $250 a year.

Sounds great, and may help keep the Endeavor on my short list. Decent-looking flames on yours, or that's irrelevant to you?

Thanks,

John
 
jensent said:
The bypass is used only for loading and establishing the initial fire. That would be the only time that I would be bypassing the secondary burn as I understand it.
True, but leaving the air all the way open is allowing a lot of primary air into the box, and sending more heat up the flue. I'm not surprised your pipe stays so clean. You might try closing the air down, (once it's really rolling, of course) maybe just a smidge past half way. You'll still get a hot, clean burn, but it might last a little longer. I also regulate output by the size of the load, but my goal is to close the air control as much as possible, so that more heat remains in the stove rather than going up the flue.
 
JV
The flames of the endeaver always show some effect from the secondary burn if you look closely. As you cut back the air when the stove is up to temp the flames become almost "witchy." We chose the stove because of dealer support. This dealer sold Avalon stoves from Travis Industries but not Lopi. When I asked he was willing to get the endeaver and explain how to install it. It has very close clearances to flammable surfaces. Another stove that I really like is the Woodstock line. Those folks were very helpful. My wife did not like the way the Woodstock stoves looked. That ended that. The entire line is being discounted now. If you check on the home page for this site there is a place where folks can rate their stoves. Lots of good info. Woodstock is a do it yourselfers dream IMO. Also some tax credits now until years end I think 30%. Thats on all energy improvements.
Let everyone know how you make out on your project. Keep in touch!
Tom
 
JV
The flames of the endeaver always show some effect from the secondary burn if you look closely. As you cut back the air when the stove is up to temp the flames become almost "witchy." We chose the stove because of dealer support. This dealer sold Avalon stoves from Travis Industries but not Lopi. When I asked he was willing to get the endeaver and explain how to install it. It has very close clearances to flammable surfaces. Another stove that I really like is the Woodstock line. Those folks were very helpful. My wife did not like the way the Woodstock stoves looked. That ended that. The entire line is being discounted now. If you check on the home page for this site there is a place where folks can rate their stoves. Lots of good info. Woodstock is a do it yourselfers dream IMO. Also some tax credits now until years end I think 30%. Thats on all energy improvements.
Let everyone know how you make out on your project. Keep in touch!
Tom
 
JV
The flames of the endeaver always show some effect from the secondary burn if you look closely. As you cut back the air when the stove is up to temp the flames become almost "witchy." We chose the stove because of dealer support. This dealer sold Avalon stoves from Travis Industries but not Lopi. When I asked he was willing to get the endeaver and explain how to install it. It has very close clearances to flammable surfaces. Another stove that I really like is the Woodstock line. Those folks were very helpful. My wife did not like the way the Woodstock stoves looked. That ended that. The entire line is being discounted now. If you check on the home page for this site there is a place where folks can rate their stoves. Lots of good info. Woodstock is a do it yourselfers dream IMO. Also some tax credits now until years end I think 30%. Thats on all energy improvements.
Let everyone know how you make out on your project. Keep in touch!
Tom
 
All of your comments are so helpful, I can't help but appreciate them. Thanks a heap!

To answer a few questions.......I do not have an outside air kit. The glass door adds enormously to the enjoyment of burning wood. Regulation of the burn is becoming easier. We've been down to 9 degrees and the inside temperature in the house (1850 Sq Ft Berm home) hardly ever gets to the low 60's by morning. My digital moisture meter is a CE model JT-4G and I have cut wood that measures in the 30-40 percent range, but it has all been standing deadwood, so far.

Here's another question I haven't seen an answer for: How deep an ash bed is best?
 
No, I don't have a fan kit. Most of the folks I talked with felt that I wouldn't need it, so I didn't order it.
 
ezwryder said:
Here's another question I haven't seen an answer for: How deep an ash bed is best?

I keep about 1/2" of ash minimum, and usually clean it when it's well over an inch. 2" or so is the deepest I've ever let it get, but at that depth it's starting to come out of the door.
 
madrone said:
jensent said:
The bypass is used only for loading and establishing the initial fire. That would be the only time that I would be bypassing the secondary burn as I understand it.
True, but leaving the air all the way open is allowing a lot of primary air into the box, and sending more heat up the flue. I'm not surprised your pipe stays so clean. You might try closing the air down, (once it's really rolling, of course) maybe just a smidge past half way. You'll still get a hot, clean burn, but it might last a little longer. I also regulate output by the size of the load, but my goal is to close the air control as much as possible, so that more heat remains in the stove rather than going up the flue.
madrone,
I wanted to thank you for the pointers on air adjustment. With the weather that we have today in N.central Illinois I have had plenty of time to watch the stove. With a bed of coals and 3 med. splits the heat goes up fast even when the air is cut down. We have been running with the handle out past the ash lip the length of the spring. (Hope that makes sense)
Off subject but I was born in Portland. My Dad was assigned there with the Army Air Corp. teaching aircraft ID to shore watchers. He then went to Guam and Okinawa to help build airfields for the bombers returning from Japan. I was 6weeks old when mom came back to Illinois so I didnt get to see much of Oregon that I can remember. Never got to come back.
Thanks
Tom
Can you folks recommend a stove-top thermometer? I have two Rutlands that read differently by 100 degrees F. Need one that I can trust, TJ
 
Status
Not open for further replies.