GREENWOOD 200 DAMPER DOOR BUILDUP

I HAVE A GW200 THAT ITS IN ITS 3RD SEASON. I HAD MAJOR PROBLEMS 1ST SEASON. INSTALLER HOOKED UP INCORRECTLY AND WAS HAVING MAJOR CONDINSATION COMING OUT BOTTOM AND EVENTUALLY I HAD A CHIMNEY FIRE! I WAS IN CONTACT WITH HIM THE WHOLE TIME AND HE ASSURED ME THAT IT WOULD GO AWAY. FOUND OUT A VALVE WAS OPEN TO MUCH SEEMED TO CURE PROBLEM. I NOW SLEEP WITH 1 EYE OPEN WHEN BOILER IS RUNNING
I WOULD LIKE TO KNOW IF ANYONE HAS A CURE FOR THE BUILDUP OF THE BLACK TAR IN THE DAMPER DOOR ON WARMER DAYS. I TRY TO LIMIT THE USE ON THESE DAYS BUT SOMETIMES WE ARE REAL COLD AT NIGHT AND WARM DURRING THE DAYS.
I WOULD LIKE TO KNOW IF THERE IS ANYONE IN CENTRAL NY THAT CAN SERVICE THIS BOILER. I WOULD LIKE TO OPEN IT UP AND INSPECT MAKE SURE THERE ARE NO PROBLEMS INSIDE.

THANKS FOR ANY HELP.

ISeeDeadBTUs said:

Welcome, John

Some facts about your install will help here.

Open or closed system?
If open, how is heat exchanged?
Describe heat load.
Installed new? When?
Burn year round?
Describe your fuel.

A couple of general statements.
These beasts probably should be disassembled and thouroughly cleaned once a year.
The draft must be within design specs and you must load appropriatly.

So, where in Central NY? There is another member here thats in the Mohawk Valley. I'm an hour South.

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Thank You in advanced for any help. This stove has cost me a alot of $ and would like to get my money out of it.

This GW is installed in my 40X60 pole barn that is insulated heating my 2000 sq ft home forced air system and dhw.
It is I believe a closed system which is hooked up directly to a pressure tank which is hooked up to my main water line.
This was installed in the spring of 2007 which I heated an above ground pool for approx 1 mounth to try it out.
I use a mixture of soft maple and ash that usually is seasoned 12-18 months prior to using.
I have a dump zone that is a fan heat exchanger in the barn that will come on if temps go above 180.
The stove pipe is 8 inch dia and goes up approx 16 ft in barn into tripple wall out the roof with no elbows. (1 90 degree at stove) total height approx 20-24 ft
I do have a cap on it now but will probably be removing it as soon as the snow lets up.
There are no cracks in the refactory as of today. and I most generaly load wood east to west in boiler.
I live in the Baldwinsville area near exit 39 off the thruway.

I was wondering if a sealing off the damper door with a felt like gasket material would help with the buildup I get when the stove sits idle for long periods of time when there is very little load on it?
Could the air tubes have holes in them causing this problem?

ISeeDeadBTUs said:

Hey John.

You need to reduce the idle time.

I don't completely understand your load . . . but I think the 200 sounds a bit over sized for you.

Do the 200's have 4 holes at the back? More?

Why are you dumping heat at 180?

width/depth of the CC on a 200?

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Forced air furnace in house that is 2000 sq ft with dhot water heat exchanger on hot water tank. Barn is approx 125 feet from home.
I would have to agree with you on the size of the boiler. I questioned this when I purchased the unit. The installer said this was the correct unit for me. I believe there are 6 holes in the back for air. Other than the buildup i get durring warmer days it appears to run good. I would like to have someone that knows about these units come out and inspect. Do you know anyone? The guy that installed will not return my calls since gw went out of business. I have been running the house temp at 70 degrees. When I work in the barn I turn down the dump zone stat to 170 to get some heat out there.
will adjusting the idle time(low temp cut in) increase my wood use. Do you think the cap may be causing this on warmer days with less draft due to temps?

Thank you for any help.

Deere10 said:

Are you dumping at 180 if so why so low? My aquastat is set at 170 now,commonlly will slowly climb to 200 at idle. Untill house wants heat. Seems like 180 to a dump zone is low But does keep garage warm. Was that the intent for the dump? My damper door had a little build up but not to much.Are the tubes intact and not broke or cracked?I dont have any sealing issues at the draft door after I adjusted it. Motor should rotate a little and hit a stop to hold pressure on door. Or thats how I have mine set up,wether thats right or not I dont know but it works for me. We will try and help you thru your problems..

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Do you have a cap on your chimney pipe? wondering if more draft would help on warmer days when cycle time is longer.
damper door is tight when closed as per design, but its suspect to air leaks because no gasket material on either steel surface. Thought maybe a gasket would help this matter.
Not sure of any cracks in tubes but none that I can see.
Thank You.

ISeeDeadBTUs said:

VDEJOHN said:

Forced air furnace in house that is 2000 sq ft with dhot water heat exchanger on hot water tank. Barn is approx 125 feet from home.
I would have to agree with you on the size of the boiler. I questioned this when I purchased the unit. The installer said this was the correct unit for me. I believe there are 6 holes in the back for air. Other than the buildup i get durring warmer days it appears to run good. I would like to have someone that knows about these units come out and inspect. Do you know anyone? The guy that installed will not return my calls since gw went out of business. I have been running the house temp at 70 degrees. When I work in the barn I turn down the dump zone stat to 170 to get some heat out there.
will adjusting the idle time(low temp cut in) increase my wood use. Do you think the cap may be causing this on warmer days with less draft due to temps?

Thank you for any help.

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I don't know Jack S. Nothing you can do about the fact that you may be over-sized. But again, how big is the box? Your 'dump zone' in the detached bldg, is that a radiator or tubes in CC?

Quit callin your 'installer'. He didn't know back then, and he don't know now.

Clarify please . . . damper opens at?
Damper closes at?
Dump activates at?

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cc has tubes
damper opens at 160 and closes at 180.
dump zone at 190-200 unless i need heat in barn then i adjust lower to heat barn.

Jesse said:

Found a pic of the draft door build up, and if you look close you can see the insulation on the door...

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thanks
i will give it a try.